Bit of a refresher on the YHE-50A conversion to stereo. Guess there's a limited audience for these though. Not common at all. Got these in from Japan a while ago but was always scared to open them up.
Really I was.
Someone was selling a bunch of them, sadly what was cheap in Japan after shipping to a forwarder's warehouse then their shipping over here it ended up a fair bit more.
They were sealed in a bag new condition not a spot of dust. So yes brand new. and NO MUSTY smell. Booyaw.
Someone clearing out an Electronic Organ store possibly ?
Another shot of the driver.
Managed to figure out what the earlier tutorial was getting at. I'd like to thank everyone here who posted about these it sure helped.
I took a sharp Exacto/utility knife then around the very thin seam where it is ( was ) glued shut I began making a few slow rocking hard cuts into it until I heard some glue crack and then worked a smaller thing screwdriver into the seam and along. Initial cuts were maybe at 6 points along the seam just to keep it gradually opening without jamming as i pried the screwdriver tip around.
When I came close to the 3 push-tabs I made sure that while applying opening pressure with that thin screwdriver in the widening seam, to press the tab as I was prying the seam open along the perimeter of the cups.
Only managed to break 1 out of 6 tabs!!!!! I consider that a success. Oh well.
There was a thin layer of decayed black foam, and I mean thin. See picture below.
Of course it was necessary to change these over to stereo. Looking through this now massive parts bin I settled on a nice silicone-type rubber cable from a Sony I stripped for parts ( XB100??)
Sony to me makes some of the nicer cables since they are lightweight, hold zero memory, and use a nice super flexible rubber. Top notch and easy to work with.
Strain-reliefs were kept stock ( obviously left in the stock headband wire ) and it was very easy to add the stock left side cable entry strain-relief onto the new Sony cable.
Damping. I was freaking out about damping. First i read "just a bit", then read " a whole bunch "
Once these are put together I didn't want to screw with them again. Actually they have no screws ( har har ). So used a solid disc of Arctic Bamboo material in the rears ( notched at 3 tab points and 3 riser pegs ), which is sort of just enough damping, a middle ground.. Always err on the side of bass i have learned. Treble happy is not for me, used to be. So long as detail isn't flooded out, there's not a lot of resonant crap, and there is nice subtleties in detailing heard, that's perfect.
Tested one side of the damping on the broken tab side before I slammed this thing shut since it was easy to reopen.
One side didn't seal perfectly due to the broken tab. It would stay in place and it held yes, but to make it even and make sure while going for a walk they didn't separate, I cut down some clear scotch tape and tightly resealed the edges. Can't even see it since I lined the edges up with the beginning edge of the cup rears. Usually I use an extra seal of electrical tape if need be ( on a couple builds only ) and wrap the pad edges over so it is invisible, Clear worked better than i expected here.
So to give a size reference here it is compared to a Cowon D2 and Colorfly C3. These things ARE SMALL! Yes, smaller than the HP-50 by far.
^ See what I mean about the condition. Grok that headband there. And the great cool little pads. Closeup. Minty. Flawless.
Off for a walk to test . Crossing fingers here. This will be the first few minutes of use ever put on these I think. Total now = ~ 3 minutes That's a good feeling.
Edited by nick n - 10/27/13 at 5:09pm