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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 1476

post #22126 of 23553

Bit of a refresher on the YHE-50A conversion to stereo. Guess there's a limited audience for these though. Not common at all. Got these in from Japan a while ago but was always scared to open them up.

Really I was.

 

Someone was selling a bunch of them, sadly what was cheap in Japan after shipping to a forwarder's warehouse then their shipping over here it ended up a fair bit more.

They were sealed in a bag new condition not a spot of dust. So yes brand new. and NO MUSTY smell. Booyaw.

Someone clearing out an Electronic Organ store possibly ?

 

 Another shot of the driver.

 

 

Managed to figure out what the earlier tutorial was getting at. I'd like to thank everyone here who posted about these it sure helped.

 

I took a sharp Exacto/utility knife then around the very thin seam where it is ( was ) glued shut I began making a few slow rocking hard cuts into it until I heard some glue crack and then  worked a smaller thing screwdriver into the seam and along. Initial cuts were maybe at 6 points along the seam just to keep it gradually opening without jamming as i pried the screwdriver tip around.

 When I came close to the 3 push-tabs I made sure that while applying opening pressure with that thin  screwdriver in the widening seam, to press the tab as I was prying the seam open along the perimeter of the cups.

 Only managed to break 1 out of 6 tabs!!!!! I consider that a success. Oh well.

 

 

There was a thin layer of decayed black foam, and I mean thin. See picture below.

 

Of course it was necessary to change these over to stereo. Looking through this now massive parts bin I settled on a nice silicone-type rubber cable from a Sony I stripped for parts ( XB100??)

 Sony to me makes some of the nicer cables since they are lightweight, hold zero memory, and use a nice super flexible rubber. Top notch and easy to work with.

 

Strain-reliefs were kept stock ( obviously left in the stock headband wire )  and it was very easy to add the stock left side cable entry  strain-relief onto the new Sony cable.

 

Damping. I was freaking out about damping. First i read "just a bit", then read " a whole bunch "

 

Yikes.

Once these are put together I didn't want to screw with them again. Actually they have no screws ( har har ). So used a solid disc of Arctic Bamboo material in the rears ( notched at 3 tab points and 3 riser pegs ), which is sort of just enough damping, a middle ground.. Always err on the side of bass i have learned:gs1000smile:  Treble happy is not for me, used to be. So long as detail isn't flooded out, there's not a lot of resonant crap, and there is nice subtleties in detailing heard, that's perfect.

 

Tested one side of the damping on the broken tab side before I slammed this thing shut since it was easy to reopen.

 

One side didn't seal perfectly due to the broken tab. It would stay in place and it held yes,  but to make it even and make sure while going for a walk they didn't separate, I cut down some clear scotch tape and tightly resealed the edges. Can't even see it since I lined the edges up with the beginning edge of the cup rears. Usually I use an extra seal of electrical tape if need be ( on a couple builds only ) and wrap the pad edges over so it is invisible, Clear worked better than i expected here.

 

So to give a size reference here it is compared to a Cowon D2 and Colorfly C3. These things ARE SMALL! Yes, smaller  than the HP-50 by far.

 

 

^ See what I mean about the condition. Grok that headband there. And the great cool little pads. Closeup. Minty. Flawless.

 

Off for a walk to test . Crossing fingers here. This will be the first few minutes of use ever put on these I think.  Total now = ~ 3 minutes :redface:That's a good feeling.


Edited by nick n - 10/27/13 at 5:09pm
post #22127 of 23553

well done Nick, 1 out of 6 is a HUGE success. These are very cool portables, and this little driver was one of yamahas finest..dB

post #22128 of 23553

Yup... friggin' nice Nick! Damn, you're getting me addicted to dusty orthos!

post #22129 of 23553

YHE-50A update. Somebody call the mayor.

 

Seems  I had to go back in and replace the thinner Arctic Bamboo material and replace it with the Arctic Cotton felty type material.  Was a little too warmed over, things a bit less obvious and possibly laid back/smothered I guess you could say. Bass was BIG but still loose.

At least it started correctly ( in my mind ) by checking out the lesser damping first.

 

Now it's got everything easily heard, still big bass but very easily heard details that were previously distant/lacking. Bass nicely tightened up just enough. No signs of overdamping.

Nothing piercing.

Nice Arctic Cotton traits added also=spatial aspects/depth to the sound.

 

 

* Does not contain carnival of fun times. Serving suggestion only


Edited by nick n - 10/28/13 at 7:28pm
post #22130 of 23553

"Golly gee, modding orthos sure is fun, but where oh where does one acquire the drivers to do it?"

 

:biggrin: 


Edited by takato14 - 10/28/13 at 10:03pm
post #22131 of 23553

Something I got not so long ago.  Any pointer on getting it open?  Dont like the sound much,  sounds like the PMB 100 but worst.

post #22132 of 23553

Pads are your first concern, get something with a coating back on there again since they used to have that , as close to those measurements as possible even down to the middle opening.

 

 There should be some screws if you pull the pads up a bit , maybe someone who has toyed with these in the past will see it or recall.

  You mentioned about having to use 2-3 o'clock on your source volume, these are pretty inefficient things. oops actually slightly different specs but same PMB company it has to be.

 I can say that because they look eerily similar to the drivers I have in the Dual DK 830 set here.

 Even down to the "extra" ring of holes on that driver that extend all the way out to the edges.  Same strain relief also. same clamping and same keeper plates for the magnets.

 

 These drivers were made toward the end of PMB's lineup there.

Going by the wikiphonia entry here :http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki/index.php?title=Telefunken_TH-700

IF they ARE I can tell you for certain that they are very capable one of my favourites if cleaned up  and mounted in the cups decently,at least in the Duals which are open backed though.  One thing though i would be concerned about is the condition of the inner foam, that will have deteriorated i bet, but how much you will definitely have to open them up.

Here's hoping they aren't the same mess i encountered along with a few others in the Dual. Sticky crud in all the holes.  Be certain not to touch the foam if it has gone funny since the lightest touch may push the sticky stuff into holes..

 

Oh I see the rears of the cups seems to be an issue, a bit too much reflection and not enough venting.

 

Do you have anything like the Acoustipack 2 layer foam?

 

I will  go browse around for more info in here.

 

Searching this thread for TH700 brings up some interesting impressions need to look more but maybe the sound on yours is bad because the foam is shot?

 

At least we know its possible.

http://www.head-fi.org/t/111193/orthodynamic-roundup/13530#post_6470521


Edited by nick n - 11/1/13 at 12:00am
post #22133 of 23553

Thanks Nick.  Guess I have to talk to Don "again".:D

post #22134 of 23553

found this picture courtesy of DefectiveAudioComponent ! ( thanks )

http://www.head-fi.org/t/111193/orthodynamic-roundup/7950#post_5415272

  nice side venting around the rims.

 See also the screw post areas.

 

 

let us know ( if you want ) when you find out admping scheme. If it were me I'd put 2 layer Acousti foam on the cup rears  and a thin foam disc on top of that, space permitting without compressing that Acousti adhesive foam, then hit the driver with some type of felt, or even have the driver directly touching the Acousti foam on the back so it diffuses and damps at the same time.(?) First thought anyhow. If you hit the driver directly  you may not need to damp the vents.


Edited by nick n - 11/1/13 at 12:32am
post #22135 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neogeo333 View Post
 

Something I got not so long ago.  Any pointer on getting it open?  Dont like the sound much,  sounds like the PMB 100 but worst.

 

PMB made quite a few different large-size drivers. How about opening it (this is very easy, the pads are usually not glued, but slide off easily), take a few photos, and share?

These drivers can sound great, the vented closed design usually is good for bass.

And you do need new pads on it to hear it, the bass now is completely cancelled out.

post #22136 of 23553

Ludoo's Megathread Search Engine page doesn't appear to be working, so I'll ask, here.

 

Last year I came across a post with a link to doctorhead.ru that described the T50RP magnetic flux. It included some colorful graphics and pictures. I searched doctorhead.ru's site and also did a Google search but no joy. I sent a query to doctorhead but no response, yet.

 

Does anyone have this link?

 

Edit: 2 hours of searching paid off.

 

Here's the Link


Edited by bluemonkeyflyer - 11/3/13 at 8:22am
post #22137 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post
 

Ludoo's Megathread Search Engine page doesn't appear to be working, so I'll ask, here.

 

Last year I came across a post with a link to doctorhead.ru that described the T50RP magnetic flux. It included some colorful graphics and pictures. I searched doctorhead.ru's site and also did a Google search but no joy. I sent a query to doctorhead but no response, yet.

 

Does anyone have this link?

 

Edit: 2 hours of searching paid off.

 

Here's the Link

I posted that info somewhere here years ago in Japanese. It was an official product development description by Fostex.

 

edit: Fostex have removed their webpage of it, but here is a webarchive of the old English version: http://web.archive.org/web/20080329124605/http://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/music_products/rp_head_pop.htm

 

Need to dig out the more complete japanese version.


Edited by Kabeer - 11/3/13 at 10:28am
post #22138 of 23553

I kept a backup of the translated original japanese page if you like: t50.zip

post #22139 of 23553

thanks leeperry.


Edited by nick n - 11/3/13 at 11:13am
post #22140 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kabeer View Post
 

I posted that info somewhere here years ago in Japanese. It was an official product development description by Fostex.

 

edit: Fostex have removed their webpage of it, but here is a webarchive of the old English version: http://web.archive.org/web/20080329124605/http://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/music_products/rp_head_pop.htm

 

Need to dig out the more complete japanese version.

Thank you, Kabeer.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by leeperry View Post
 

I kept a backup of the translated original japanese page if you like: t50.zip

Thank you, M...perfect! Downloaded, unzipped, and ripped.

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