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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 1470

post #22036 of 24682

BTW, there's a good chance that I'll try this thing very soon: Yamaha A-S300 - Integrated Amplifier

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It looks too good in black, it's fairly cheap, it comes with a remote control, its analog volume control is motorized and amazon carry it so I can it for free for a month....hard to turn down :evil: 

post #22037 of 24682

^ Still eyeing those hey Leeperry.  Have a chance to try them out in person at all yet?  You had to remind me. Liking the silver myself. the design is simply perfect to me.

 

oh no I just hit the features tab...  drooling away now and saved link for later. Off to check prices.  Betcha these are fantastic with a Yamaha HP-1. AND the Duals.

post #22038 of 24682

Been playing with a few T10 damping schemes.

 

- stock damping material

- experimented with a half circle treble reflector

- sealed cup vents with electrical tape

- plasticine around driver/baffle

- paxmate damping around cup circumference 

This configuration was too trebly and bass volume went down too, but extension on both ends was better.

The paxmate was mostly responsible for this - even after removing the treble reflector, there was still too much treble and not enough bass.

The added mass from plasticine seemed to tighten the bass nicely.

Sealing the vents only improves isolation at no obvious expense.

 

 

But this is the configuration I've settled with (for now):

Small paxmate pieces around the circumference

Stock damping material

Plasticine mass

Closed vents with electrical tape

 

Now it's quite good for all musical genres, but lacks the air/space of bigger headphones. 

post #22039 of 24682
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick n View Post
 

 

oh no I just hit the features tab...  drooling away now and saved link for later. Off to check prices.  Betcha these are fantastic with a Yamaha HP-1. AND the Duals.

Yeah, the features tab looks yummy:popcorn:

 

I don't really get what that means in the user manual, though:

 

 

8Ω ? 470 Ω ? And the more expensive A-S500 would have a beefier headamp? I'm confused :confused_face_2:

 

Yamie claim it to be using the same external design as their TOTL AS2k("Offers the look and feel of the top-class A-S2000, with elegant aluminium front panel and silky touch volume/selector knobs. You can feel Yamaha’s commitment to quality when you touch the knobs."): http://www.whathifi.com/review/a-s2000

 

This one's even got wooden side panels, hah! Looks great in black too.

 

What-Hifi said that the AS2k headamp sounds too relaxed and yamie claim it to be using a fully discrete design, I would guess that the AS300's headamp isn't discrete for this price. Anyway, I can try it for free so I'll most likely order it through the end of week :happy_face1: 

 

FWIW I did try an old SONY AVR but its volume control is digital and there aren't enough steps, its headamp is based on poor sounding NJM4565 opamps(worse than 4580 apparently) and the sound of its headamp is quite a joke compared to my Eximus DP1, deep bass is blurry and the sound is plain flabby. But it does come with a remote control which is just great so I might be willing to accept a SQ compromise with the AS300 if it doesn't lag behind too much.


Edited by leeperry - 10/2/13 at 5:58am
post #22040 of 24682
Quote:
Originally Posted by leeperry View Post
 

Yamie claim it to be using the same design as their TOTL AS2k("Offers the look and feel of the top-class A-S2000, with elegant aluminium front panel and silky touch volume/selector knobs. You can feel Yamaha’s commitment to quality when you touch the knobs.")

 

They don't claim same design; whether something looks and/or feels like something else is more to do with personal impressions.

post #22041 of 24682

Oh well, the external design is a rocker fosho but I keep reading that those yamies sound pretty flabby.

 

I can't seem to be able to locate any audiophile grade headamp shipping with a remote control so I guess I'll pick one of those hifi AVR's with a motorized analog knob, need to make up my mind now but ideally I would need one that can accept 3Vrms line-input which is what both my DAC's output at full volume. The AS300 doesn't have this spec listed of course..fanboyism can't win ^^

 

It's also a bummer to run a Class-A speakers amp that sucks 240W when all I need is a headamp..


Edited by leeperry - 10/7/13 at 5:08am
post #22042 of 24682
Quote:
Originally Posted by GREQ View Post
 

Been playing with a few T10 damping schemes.

 

 

Small paxmate pieces around the circumference

Stock damping material

Plasticine mass

Closed vents with electrical tape

 

Now it's quite good for all musical genres, but lacks the air/space of bigger headphones. 

For myself i got rid of the Micron glasswool damping pad right away since I found it to make things murky to my ears anyhow.  All I did was surround the driver/empty space with white foam and hit the driver directly in the recess there with a disc of some Arctic Bamboo material, not sure if I covered the rear vents with felt or not, but they kept the open sound and got rid of the murky sound that the glasswool gave them.

Maybe I should get in there and either Newplast or Dynamat the driver housing also.

 

.

 

I never would have thought about taping up the rear vents to make it closed though. Interesting idea.

Thanks for posting.


Edited by nick n - 10/5/13 at 1:59pm
post #22043 of 24682

orthos woo


Edited by takato14 - 10/4/13 at 10:20pm
post #22044 of 24682

Anyone have a spare set of 32ohm SFI (well balanced set) you'd like to sell me?

post #22045 of 24682
Had my yam Yh-100's forever, still tryin to find a parts pair (hint hint) but just got a pair of mint hp-2's!!! Really quite pleased and can't wait to dampen them, but just wondering if anybody has come up with a decent, not too destructive way of repairing plastic cracks in the headband edges. They aren't bad, only two, but I'd like to keep them from getting worse or peeling from the material. Contemplating even removal and replacement with a home made version just to keep them from getting any worse. Anybody have any new interesting ideas?
post #22046 of 24682

Post a photo of the problem.

 

I have a pair of HP1s with a broken thin band on either side of the cloth.

I have been thinking about how and what to super glue on top of each side to fix and still be flexible.

Thinking about laying up a thin carbon fiber strip smooth enough to super glue, maybe with a slight bend.

 

Rush

post #22047 of 24682
[IMG][IMG]
So these are the cracked bands I'm dealing with. I really want something clean and pro looking. Doesn't seem to affect the comfort but I don't want them to get any worse
post #22048 of 24682
post #22049 of 24682
post #22050 of 24682
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffrocc View Post

[IMG][IMG]
So these are the cracked bands I'm dealing with. I really want something clean and pro looking. Doesn't seem to affect the comfort but I don't want them to get any worse

Since that head seems to hold it together. I suggest using some Araldite standard with a toothpick. Put a tiny dab in between the cracks. And leave it overnight to set. The araldite will bond and allow a slight flex too in that small amount.

 

MDR30 done another fix with cable ties, but i dont actually knw how he managed it :S http://www.head-fi.org/t/111193/orthodynamic-roundup/18240#post_7868496. His repair looks great.

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