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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 1468

post #22006 of 23364
nice find Mats, are you the one that won it from last auction?

if we look at the earpads, looks more comfy than T50's and oem (incl. my previous NAD)..
congrats, and dont forget to share some impression.. wink.gif
post #22007 of 23364
Quote:
Originally Posted by iQEM View Post

nice find Mats, are you the one that won it from last auction?

if we look at the earpads, looks more comfy than T50's and oem (incl. my previous NAD)..
congrats, and dont forget to share some impression.. wink.gif

Different strokes. I look at those pads and think Mad Dog pads are in the immediate future:D

post #22008 of 23364
Quote:
Originally Posted by iQEM View Post

nice find Mats, are you the one that won it from last auction?

if we look at the earpads, looks more comfy than T50's and oem (incl. my previous NAD)..
congrats, and dont forget to share some impression.. wink.gif

Not the auction you linked to earlier, but yes i won it on an auction.
post #22009 of 23364
Any ear pad suggestions for these Aiwas? I have another pair that I use, that I can experiment on.

They are 98mm across in diameter, and I cant find any angeled pads (LCD-2 style) that has the same diameter. I Was thinking of Stax SR-007 pads but i think they are larger than 100mm.

Anyone know the diameter of Alpadog pads? And can they fit a perfectly round housing?
post #22010 of 23364
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kabeer View Post

Kapton is yellow so the Aiwa is Mylar im pretty sure.


Id really discourage anyone from heatings their orthodynamic headphone diaphragms, unless the driver is a bit useless and you dont mind risking on it. It would be very difficult to get both channels even and a high change of deforming/damaging the diaphragm.
The aiwa is a really great headphone smily_headphones1.gif (there does seem to be a bit of variance in sound between pairs though). Im glad you got it sounding hot ! 

Are you sure? Even the page that you have uploaded to wikiphonia says from the owners manual that the diaphragm is polyester.

http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/DIYOrtho_AiwaHP500_kabeer_manual.jpg
post #22011 of 23364
Quote:
Originally Posted by MatsGyver View Post


Are you sure? Even the page that you have uploaded to wikiphonia says from the owners manual that the diaphragm is polyester.

http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/DIYOrtho_AiwaHP500_kabeer_manual.jpg

Mylar is polyester. http://www2.dupont.com/Products/en_RU/Mylar_en.html

 

If you use circum pads the sound will change dramatically, it will tilt upwards. Unless you manipulate the hole of the earpad (make it smaller, make it less reflective)

post #22012 of 23364

Anyone notice that a pair of HOK without earpads sold for 2.5 euros in an auction last month?

post #22013 of 23364
What can a sheet of cork be used as? It's arond 1.5mm thick. I'm thinking that it might be able to substitute the thin closed cell foams for... something.
post #22014 of 23364
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgray91 View Post

What can a sheet of cork be used as? It's arond 1.5mm thick. I'm thinking that it might be able to substitute the thin closed cell foams for... something.

 

When unsure, experiment. I'd think cork will reflect more sound than it absorbs, but you never know.

post #22015 of 23364
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgray91 View Post

What can a sheet of cork be used as? It's arond 1.5mm thick. I'm thinking that it might be able to substitute the thin closed cell foams for... something.

 

Cork is useful as a physical vibration isolation solution. So if you wish to isolate a portion of the frame it may serve a good purpose there.

post #22016 of 23364
I see. Well I have this idea to have earpads with velcro strips for easy modding, and thinking of using the sheet to 'close' the gaps the velcro will make.

Btw, if it's okay, what other service than rakuten that can search and bid in yahoo auction japan? Ever since the Singapore meet and listening to a HP50A, I'm smitten with it...
post #22017 of 23364

I've successfully used cork sheet to increase the depth of my cups. As in, use it to sit between the baffle and whatever was originally supposed to support the baffle. Less stress to the baffle when tightening the screws and it works pretty decent at keeping things tight.

 

 

Sorry my English vocab is blasted at the moment I can't make myself more clear at the moment with more proper terminology.


Edited by kalbee - 9/10/13 at 7:34pm
post #22018 of 23364
That's exactly what I was thinking to use it as, since I'm running out of thin, rubber/foam mat sheet thing to use that as.
post #22019 of 23364

Ah... the word I was trying to think of was probably: gasket. And Washer.

post #22020 of 23364

Ideas for repairing a snapped Frame (Yamaha YH-1)


For those wanting to repair a snapped frame here is a solution that worked well for me and ended up with a v.clean fix with a joint stronger than the original.

 

-I used a metal brace to support the joint and provide strength (in this case a small metal L-bracket).

-Filed it down to shape to fit the area (can use a file or sandpaper, quite laborious, should have use my dremel)

-Painted it with matte black acrylic hobby paint to match the frame

-glued the bracked with Araldite Standard to one part of the frame, held in place with masking tape. left to dry.

-once dried and tape removed i glued the other part on and held in place with masking tape and also some small clamps (i used the clamps from my soldering helping hands).

-use a small knifetool to trim away any excess dried epoxy glue and neaten with a little fine 2000grit sandpaper if needed. and a very nice fix!

 

See photos below for the steps:

 

 

 

Also worked well to add a tiny dab to the cracks in the headband using a toothpick, and held in place with a paper clip. The araldite standard formed a strong connection with flexibility.

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