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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 1465

post #21961 of 22861
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick n View Post


I actually ended up getting that MCS a while ago.  Waitaminnit, are you saying you have the MCS version or the Technics version....blink.gif 810/8710 or 820/8720?

I have the MCS 8720. Was part of a haul of misc. I cataloged it, tested it, thought 'oh, that's probably an ortho. I'll mess with it later', put it in a storage box, and mostly forgot about it. My notes indicate some wear, perfect working order, no apparent modification. Should I go pull it from the vault?
post #21962 of 22861

 Why not. It's got the larger square driver, but you probably knew that. Anything on the Technics 820 is identical also. You probably knew that as well too :)

 

Nice score!   Was it part of that MCS stereo components haul i saw last year?  I believe we may be the only2 in here with the MCS version, only saw one or two outside of here.

Wonder why there are not more floating around.


Edited by nick n - 8/23/13 at 6:06pm
post #21963 of 22861
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick n View Post

 Why not. It's got the larger square driver, but you probably knew that. Anything on the Technics 820 is identical also. You probably knew that as well too smily_headphones1.gif

That's nice of you, but I'm not any kind of orthodynamic expert. I know a lot of the vintage dynamics and more esoteric techs, but not orthos. They got expensive, too expensive to collect.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick n View Post

Nice score!   Was it part of that MCS stereo components haul i saw last year?  I believe we may be the only2 in here with the MCS version, only saw one or two outside of here.
Wonder why there are not more floating around.

It was part of a lot of misc unidentified cans from eBay, most of them cheap/unremarkable, and you have to admit that by modern standards the MCS/Panasonic ortho styling looks kinda cheap and trashy too. Trying... too... hard... :-)

OK, I'll see if I have time to pull them out tomorrow. I had not planned to take them apart for photographing before testing on a dummy head as a checkpoint, but I don't think that's a big deal.
Edited by xiphmont - 8/23/13 at 7:26pm
post #21964 of 22861

http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki/index.php?title=Technics_EAH-820  something in addition to searching within this exact thread i think there is a bit more in here.

post #21965 of 22861
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kabeer View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by MatsGyver View Post

If mylar is the yellow ones mines probably polyester, or kapton? Mine looked similar to the ones pictured here (not mine): http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki/images/8/83/Aiwa_HP-500_7.jpg

 

My tip is to take your time and bring the diaphragm up in temperature nice and slow, and to heat it evenly over the entire surface. If you hold the heater gun too close you will probably burn a big whole in a couple of seconds. Keep a safe distance so the heat gets distributed evenly over the entire surface. I probably held the heater gun a good 20-25 cm / seven inches or more away from the diaphragm, and that was more than close enough to do the job.

 

But be aware. The diaphragm won`t tighten before it cools of, and its probably very easy to overheat and making it too tight, witch will result in permanent damage. It is better to heat it in a few small steps, and wait to see the effect before you keep on going any further. Try to blow on it to see if there are any movement in the diaphragm. If its no longer movement when you blow, it is probably tightened enough.

 

I have never done anything like this before, but it is incredibly easy to do successfully if you are careful.

 

I have allready got the damping recipe from Kabeer (thanks Kabeer) and tried to implement the same changes to my set. With a few additional changes, new earpads etc. they became very good.

Kapton is yellow so the Aiwa is Mylar im pretty sure.


Id really discourage anyone from heatings their orthodynamic headphone diaphragms, unless the driver is a bit useless and you dont mind risking on it. It would be very difficult to get both channels even and a high change of deforming/damaging the diaphragm.

The aiwa is a really great headphone :) (there does seem to be a bit of variance in sound between pairs though). Im glad you got it sounding hot ! 

The headphone I'm talking about uses polyester. I would think that polyester wouldn't lose tension over time but I could be mistaken, I do know however that it will not shrink when heat is applied...

 

Either way, good info. 

post #21966 of 22861

Just a heads-up for the modders - there are some 4 cheap sets of SFI drivers available online right now. 

Not sure if it's bad etiquette to share this, so I won't post the link.

post #21967 of 22861
post #21968 of 22861

Mylar or Kapton?

 

You're gonna love 'em.

post #21969 of 22861
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemonkeyflyer View Post

Mylar or Kapton?

 

You're gonna love 'em.

Mylar. <3

 

Only thing I'm worried about are the pads, I usually don't have any problems with supra-aurals but those seem like they have the potential to be pure evil since they're so thin. Considering LCD-2/3 pads if they hurt my ears. Any further mods that you suggest?


Edited by takato14 - 8/27/13 at 7:02pm
post #21970 of 22861
Quote:
Originally Posted by khbaur330162 View Post

Felt like sharing this.

 

Remember people said the Wharfedale ID1 pads turned "liquid"? Well the coating is essentially tar on my pair. That's just after I retook all the measurements for everything I needed to cut. You shoulda seen my hands after unstitching the pad/baffle mount piece from the stock pad. Yuk.

 

My ATH-8's headband did the exact same thing, it was a tar-like powder that seemed to stick to itself and become "liquid" when it came into contact with a source of heat.

 

It took me forever to get the powderized vinyl off of the band, and man was my counter a MESS when I was done. I'm still thinking I should just make a completely new strap for it, since I couldn't get it all off even after spending hours scrubbing it with a wet paper towel.


Edited by takato14 - 8/27/13 at 8:50pm
post #21971 of 22861

Stuff like that you might want to start using solvents like turpentine or acetone. Actually sometimes WD40 works too.

post #21972 of 22861
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post

Stuff like that you might want to start using solvents like turpentine or acetone. Actually sometimes WD40 works too.

Interesting. Might try that. 

post #21973 of 22861

Yep, just be careful with the strong stuff. It'll melt right through plastic (note: grados do not like acetone at all... oops cool.gif)

post #21974 of 22861
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post

Yep, just be careful with the strong stuff. It'll melt right through plastic (note: grados do not like acetone at all... oops cool.gif)

LOL. I'll take your word for it. 

 

Either way I do still have my ATH-6 so I could use the strap from that if something did happen to the strap on the 8. 

 

I'm far more interested to hear about mods for the RP18 though. This next week is going to be one hell of a wait, for everybody... normal_smile%20.gif

post #21975 of 22861
Quote:
Originally Posted by takato14 View Post

LOL. I'll take your word for it. 

 

Either way I do still have my ATH-6 so I could use the strap from that if something did happen to the strap on the 8. 

 

I'm far more interested to hear about mods for the RP18 though. This next week is going to be one hell of a wait, for everybody... normal_smile%20.gif


Goo Gone is fairly benevolent to most materials. I still wouldn't let it linger too long on anything though.

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