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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 1464

post #21946 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by padam View Post

Yamaha YH-1000 spotted

padam - posting links like this is considered extremely bad internet etiquette, and is highly frowned upon in many forums. 

post #21947 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by khbaur330162 View Post

Felt like sharing this.

 

Remember people said the Wharfedale ID1 pads turned "liquid"? Well the coating is essentially tar on my pair. That's just after I retook all the measurements for everything I needed to cut. You shoulda seen my hands after unstitching the pad/baffle mount piece from the stock pad. Yuk.

 

 

 

 

 

From left to right:

Lambskin (what I made tonight... and it was a long night... and I've still got a whole 'nother pad to make frown.gif), Stock, Deer hide (I made this one with a sewing machine, the other deer hide pad on the left cup was hand stitched and is better fitted)

 

 

 

Only reason why I'm even considering saving the lambskin on the headband is because it was probably all rubbed into a poor Englishman's hair decades ago.

 

And a closeup.

 

 

 

Sounds different than the deer hide, you immediately notice the channels are off from one another. Noticeably warmer/stickier on your face, too. I feel like the pad design (not even close to vented, let alone sealed) might very well be holding the SQ of these back. But then again, maybe I'm just being a snob.

 

After I get the other pad made it'll be interesting to hear how these might have sounded in their glory days. A cool pair of cans, indeed.

 

Cheers, guys.

 

It looks like a great restoration of the pads  beerchug.gif

 

The pads might not be vented directly,  but there is a vent going back through the baffle to the cups (should reduce bass).

post #21948 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefectiveAudioComponent View Post

 

It looks like a great restoration of the pads  beerchug.gif

 

The pads might not be vented directly,  but there is a vent going back through the baffle to the cups (should reduce bass).

 

Hey, thanks! I like how this first one turned out, too.

 

And yeah, I didn't word that very well, did I? That's what I mean, though, the pads are MORE than vented, they're gaping wide open! And I agree with you, sealing these pads up by stitching the outer wall of the pad to the support backing should increase the low end response considerably. I already notice a bump in the bass, though, just by going from deer hide to lambskin. Once the second pad is made I'll see if its necessary, it's hard to tell with the channel mismatch right now.

post #21949 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by padam View Post

Yamaha YH-1000 spotted
Seriously, don't post links to active auctions. That's a gigantic middle finger to whoever may be bidding on it.
post #21950 of 23553
long time not post here, hi everyone...so who's here that won this one?

Vintage AIWA HP-500 STEREO Headphones
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360716554289

*poke on our ortho ninja...biggrin.gif
Edited by iQEM - 8/20/13 at 10:05pm
post #21951 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by iQEM View Post

long time not post here, hi everyone...so who's here that won this one?

Vintage AIWA HP-500 STEREO Headphones
http://www.ebay.com/itm/360716554289

*poke on our ortho ninja...biggrin.gif

Saw that one two days ago... wish I had the money to jump on it, as that thing is a baby LCD-2 when properly modified.

post #21952 of 23553

Hey, this is a quick shout-out about materials. Has anyone experimented with the high-frequency attenuation properties of different felts? I was actually wanting to know in reference to cutting the 9-11khz peak on the Beyerdynamic DT770 250's. I know this thread is for orthodynamics, but I thought that if anyone might be able to help, it would be you wonderful folks.

 

Whenever I get time, I plan to experiment with just trial and error using different craft-felts and microfiber cloths that I still have around, and just run sweeps while I add and remove material. I want to knock that sharp peak down some, without affecting the lower treble. Has anyone done something  like this before or have some specific recommendations?

post #21953 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sambones View Post

Hey, this is a quick shout-out about materials. Has anyone experimented with the high-frequency attenuation properties of different felts? I was actually wanting to know in reference to cutting the 9-11khz peak on the Beyerdynamic DT770 250's. I know this thread is for orthodynamics, but I thought that if anyone might be able to help, it would be you wonderful folks.

 

Whenever I get time, I plan to experiment with just trial and error using different craft-felts and microfiber cloths that I still have around, and just run sweeps while I add and remove material. I want to knock that sharp peak down some, without affecting the lower treble. Has anyone done something  like this before or have some specific recommendations?


Dense felt seems to have this effect for me, although I don't know what range it was.

post #21954 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by takato14 View Post

Saw that one two days ago... wish I had the money to jump on it, as that thing is a baby LCD-2 when properly modified.

What modifications do you recommend? And do you have any photos of it?

 

Found a set a few weeks ago that was in a rough condition. So I figured out it was a good set to play around with some modifications on, without risking to ruin a perfect set of vintage headphones.

 

New earpads, litte repair work on the right driver, and a lot of back and forth with damping schemes and they transformed into a nice sounding headphone. Easy to drive too.

 

They are a little harsh in the treble compared to LCD-2. The base-extension is almost equally good as the Audeze, but they sound tighter and more precise in the low mids to base section. I actually like them quite a bit and find myself using them more than i probably should.

 

The one modification that had the biggest impact on sound quality, came after I opened the earcups and heated the plastic drivers/diaphragm carefully with a heater gun so they tightened up a bit. They were a little loose and it was possible to hear small crackle noises during music. After the heater gun treatment they are as good as new and the crackle noise is now gone. To my ears both the detail level and the bass extension improved substantially, but I cannot recommend this method to others because of the risk involved. A litte too much heat, and the drivers are ruined. Good luck trying to find a replacement pair. normal_smile%20.gif

post #21955 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by MatsGyver View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by takato14 View Post

Saw that one two days ago... wish I had the money to jump on it, as that thing is a baby LCD-2 when properly modified.
What modifications do you recommend? And do you have any photos of it?

Found a set a few weeks ago that was in a rough condition. So I figured out it was a good set to play around with some modifications on, without risking to ruin a perfect set of vintage headphones.

New earpads, litte repair work on the right driver, and a lot of back and forth with damping schemes and they transformed into a nice sounding headphone. Easy to drive too.

They are a little harsh in the treble compared to LCD-2. The base-extension is almost equally good as the Audeze, but they sound tighter and more precise in the low mids to base section. I actually like them quite a bit and find myself using them more than i probably should.

The one modification that had the biggest impact on sound quality, came after I opened the earcups and heated the plastic drivers/diaphragm carefully with a heater gun so they tightened up a bit. They were a little loose and it was possible to hear small crackle noises during music. After the heater gun treatment they are as good as new and the crackle noise is now gone. To my ears both the detail level and the bass extension improved substantially, but I cannot recommend this method to others because of the risk involved. A litte too much heat, and the drivers are ruined. Good luck trying to find a replacement pair. normal_smile .gif
How long should they be heated? Is the diaphragm of the HP-500 mylar or polyester? Perhaps kapton? I'm going to be getting an orthodynamic myself soon and if they share the same diaphragm material it is very possible that my diaphragm has lost tension as well, and while it may be risky I want to fix it if its a problem.

Also, if you want mods, ask Kabeer, as the measurement sheet of his HP-500 is what im going off of. He sent them to Tyll at InnerFidelity for the ortho modding contest, and not only do the measurements eerily resemble the LCD-2, that headphone also won the contest.
Edited by takato14 - 8/23/13 at 10:08am
post #21956 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by takato14 View Post


How long should they be heated? Is the diaphragm of the HP-500 mylar or polyester? Perhaps kapton? I'm going to be getting an orthodynamic myself soon and if they share the same diaphragm material it is very possible that my diaphragm has lost tension as well, and while it may be risky I want to fix it if its a problem.

Also, if you want mods, ask Kabeer, as the measurement sheet of his HP-500 is what im going off of. He sent them to Tyll at InnerFidelity for the ortho modding contest, and not only do the measurements eerily resemble the LCD-2, that headphone also won the contest.

If mylar is the yellow ones mines probably polyester, or kapton? Mine looked similar to the ones pictured here (not mine): http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki/images/8/83/Aiwa_HP-500_7.jpg

 

My tip is to take your time and bring the diaphragm up in temperature nice and slow, and to heat it evenly over the entire surface. If you hold the heater gun too close you will probably burn a big whole in a couple of seconds. Keep a safe distance so the heat gets distributed evenly over the entire surface. I probably held the heater gun a good 20-25 cm / seven inches or more away from the diaphragm, and that was more than close enough to do the job.

 

But be aware. The diaphragm won`t tighten before it cools of, and its probably very easy to overheat and making it too tight, witch will result in permanent damage. It is better to heat it in a few small steps, and wait to see the effect before you keep on going any further. Try to blow on it to see if there are any movement in the diaphragm. If its no longer movement when you blow, it is probably tightened enough.

 

I have never done anything like this before, but it is incredibly easy to do successfully if you are careful.

 

I have allready got the damping recipe from Kabeer (thanks Kabeer) and tried to implement the same changes to my set. With a few additional changes, new earpads etc. they became very good.


Edited by MatsGyver - 8/23/13 at 10:53am
post #21957 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by MatsGyver View Post

If mylar is the yellow ones mines probably polyester, or kapton? Mine looked similar to the ones pictured here (not mine): http://wiki.faust3d.com/wiki/images/8/83/Aiwa_HP-500_7.jpg

 

My tip is to take your time and bring the diaphragm up in temperature nice and slow, and to heat it evenly over the entire surface. If you hold the heater gun too close you will probably burn a big whole in a couple of seconds. Keep a safe distance so the heat gets distributed evenly over the entire surface. I probably held the heater gun a good 20-25 cm / seven inches or more away from the diaphragm, and that was more than close enough to do the job.

 

But be aware. The diaphragm won`t tighten before it cools of, and its probably very easy to overheat and making it too tight, witch will result in permanent damage. It is better to heat it in a few small steps, and wait to see the effect before you keep on going any further. Try to blow on it to see if there are any movement in the diaphragm. If its no longer movement when you blow, it is probably tightened enough.

 

I have never done anything like this before, but it is incredibly easy to do successfully if you are careful.

 

I have allready got the damping recipe from Kabeer (thanks Kabeer) and tried to implement the same changes to my set. With a few additional changes, new earpads etc. they became very good.

Kapton is yellow so the Aiwa is Mylar im pretty sure.


Id really discourage anyone from heatings their orthodynamic headphone diaphragms, unless the driver is a bit useless and you dont mind risking on it. It would be very difficult to get both channels even and a high change of deforming/damaging the diaphragm.

The aiwa is a really great headphone :) (there does seem to be a bit of variance in sound between pairs though). Im glad you got it sounding hot ! 

post #21958 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kabeer View Post

Id really discourage anyone from heatings their orthodynamic headphone diaphragms, unless the driver is a bit useless and you dont mind risking on it.

 

That's exactly what we should do to our ortho phones. Get them cheap, preferably, but go nuts modding them nonetheless.

post #21959 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick n View Post

Anyhow while I am in the mood for sharing it was an MCS8720 ( mine is an 8710 )
 MISSION BRIEFING:Here's a picture of the 8720.
BE ON THE LOOKOUT.

Oh, I have a pair of these in my 'unprocessed inventory'. What did you want to know about it?
post #21960 of 23553
Quote:
Originally Posted by xiphmont View Post


Oh, I have a pair of these in my 'unprocessed inventory'. What did you want to know about it?


I actually ended up getting that MCS a while ago.  Waitaminnit, are you saying you have the MCS version or the Technics version....blink.gif 810/8710 or 820/8720?

 One things for sure I had to make new pleather pads for them to stock profile, not a fan of the  fabric after  that coating disappears. Affects the sound too much I find anyhow.

 

 One of the few I have not opened up so far. I don't mind the sound ( what they are "telling me") stock and am hesitant to do anything, but ice to know here are a few still kicking around

 

 

khbaur:  nice to see you finally showed off your great job on the Wharfedale pads replication, those are near perfect replicas ( I saw the inside out  picture not posted here )


Edited by nick n - 8/23/13 at 5:38pm
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