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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 1446

post #21676 of 23352
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericj View Post


I figure I'm more of a headphone john the baptist.

I did try multiple amps. And multiple pair of headphones.

I got this attitude by hearing other peoples planar mods and then pointing out what is wrong with them.

In terms of clarity and sharpness any planar magnetic should be able to approach entry level stax, say sr-5. Easy.

I've heard a lot of tone-only mods that did not.

Getting that accutance plus a pleasing frequency response is much harder, but starting with the FR is a fool's errand.

Sent by pneumatic tubes

Maybe it's your music. What kind of music is big in Utah? oh.

http://video.search.yahoo.com/video/play;_ylt=A0S00Mu7x55R6H8AQj_7w8QF;_ylu=X3oDMTBrc3VyamVwBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDdmlkBHZ0aWQD?p=mormon+music&vid=11b638cca48462001242e32df7ee09dc&l=4%3A45&turl=http%3A%2F%2Fts4.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DV.4515330200832207%26pid%3D15.1&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DakM8v20eNxs&tit=Mormon+Style+%28Gangnam+Style+Parody%29&c=22&sigr=11aevqnb8&age=0&fr=moz35&tt=b

post #21677 of 23352
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesHuntington View Post

A headphone Jesus could make a pair of sony mdr-v150 sound like hd-800. So if you want the name you better step up!


Oh I have a pair of 11 dollar wonders that'll challenge your value systembasshead.gif

post #21678 of 23352

Spent some time playing around with the ATH-2. To be fair, they can't touch the HOK 80-1 and the only impressive thing about them is the glue on the pads.

 

Maybe there's a magic pill.

post #21679 of 23352

Are the baffles cut away on those?

post #21680 of 23352

Baffles were cut. The decay is fairly clean but the tonality is off; they sound very confused.

post #21681 of 23352

Taking away all damping, convolving to the response of the damped HP-50 and applying extra manual EQ where applicable made the ATH-2 sound quite nice. They have a kicky bass without bloat and an overall focused, clean sound.

 

Also, I can hear ericj creaking in his rocking chair, which adds to the enjoyment.

post #21682 of 23352
Got fed up with the limited and unnerving modding situation of my orthos. Removing the pads, loosening the screws, opening up the cups, applying some padding and then putting the assembly together again. Just to find out that the result does not meet your expectations. Thereby ruining your cups and pads.
 
As a result I did some thinking and finally I came up with a design/modding strategy that makes it really easy and quick to apply changes. 
 
In the attached pictures you can see that I removeg the drivers (T50RP and T20V2) from the plastic baffles and use wood baffles instead. Then I use custom made wood enclosures to give the drivers a bigger acoustic chamber and myself the opportunity to apply damping material easily and comfortably.
 
The thing that really makes the modding easy is the "Strato lid system". The wood lid is a little smaller in diameter than the opening. Then I glue a felt disk (or closed-cell foam if you prefer to seal the chamber and avoid venting) at the back of the lid. The felt is a little larger than the wood disk. When you press the lid into the cup, the felt fills the ring between lid and shell and holds the lid in place. If you want to change the damping, you just have to get the lid out again (works very nicely and easily) and you are there, right at the back of the driver, to apply the changes. 
 
That way you can try lots of damping versions without removing the pads, loosening the screws ....
 
The phones you see in the pictures are rosewood T50RPs and Gaboon Ebony T20v2s. As pads I am using Brainwavz HM5 pads.
 

 


Edited by stratocaster - 5/26/13 at 4:15am
post #21683 of 23352
Quote:
Originally Posted by stratocaster View Post

Got fed up with the limited and unnerving modding situation of my orthos. Removing the pads, loosening the screws, opening up the cups, applying some padding and then putting the assembly together again. Just to find out that the result does not meet your expectations. Thereby ruining your cups and pads.
 
As a result I did some thinking and finally I came up with a design/modding strategy that makes it really easy and quick to apply changes. 
 
In the attached pictures you can see that I removeg the drivers (T50RP and T20V2) from the plastic baffles and use wood baffles instead. Then I use custom made wood enclosures to give the drivers a bigger acoustic chamber and myself the opportunity to apply damping material easily and comfortably.
 
The thing that really makes the modding easy is the "Strato lid system". The wood lid is a little smaller in diameter than the opening. Then I glue a felt disk (or closed-cell foam if you prefer to seal the chamber and avoid venting) at the back of the lid. The felt is a little larger than the wood disk. When you press the lid into the cup, the felt fills the ring between lid and shell and holds the lid in place. If you want to change the damping, you just have to get the lid out again (works very nicely and easily) and you are there, right at the back of the driver, to apply the changes. 
 
That way you can try lots of damping versions without removing the pads, loosening the screws ....
 
The phones you see in the pictures are rosewood T50RPs and Gaboon Ebony T20v2s. As pads I am using Brainwavz HM5 pads.
 

 

That is quite brilliant.

 

Love the ebony. Must have cost a bomb.

post #21684 of 23352
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hutnicks View Post

 

Love the ebony. Must have cost a bomb.

 Wasn't too bad. Since I am making the cups myself, it was just the cost of a board. Got 3 sets of cups out of it.

post #21685 of 23352
Quote:
Originally Posted by stratocaster View Post

"Strato lid system"
 

Haha, and we were just talking about marketing terms about 10 pages back.

But, seriously, nice job they look beautiful and some more.

 

 

 

Recently I've been reworking my DIY headphones--the ones in the ATH-RE70 shells with SFI drivers.

For some reason I can't get any proper treble out of it anymore, with or without any form of damping. Heck even with the drivers bare.

I do wonder if it's my hearing, or that it's just too humid for the drivers. I don't recall such a total lack in treble in the past, with the same exact drivers.

post #21686 of 23352

The ATH-2 do clean, deep bass quite easily with EQ and no damping. 10 Hz is clearly perceptible and above that there's no problem remaining at the level of 1 kHz. Stock, they barely reach 60 Hz.

post #21687 of 23352
Quote:
Originally Posted by vid View Post

The ATH-2 do clean, deep bass quite easily with EQ and no damping. 10 Hz is clearly perceptible and above that there's no problem remaining at the level of 1 kHz. Stock, they barely reach 60 Hz.


10hz? Unless you got bat ears I don't believe you can hear that low.

post #21688 of 23352

I sure can feel it.

post #21689 of 23352
Quote:
Originally Posted by vid View Post

I sure can feel it.


If you indeed get resonance or vibrations at that frequency then nice job with the ATH, many transducers I modded/worked with cannot.

post #21690 of 23352

It's the driver, not me. Technically, apart from having a very colored frequency response, the decay is squeaky clean if not the fastest and the response while colored is still very smooth. When pushed, the driver can do bass, it can do treble, but for some reason in its stock form it's very colored whether in the cup or out in free air.

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