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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 1411

post #21151 of 23454
Quote:
Originally Posted by ardgedee View Post

The current liner is dense closed-cell foam, so I was thinking the optimal replacement would probably be a ring cut from chamois or something similar.


But the chamois is breathable is it not?

post #21152 of 23454
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hutnicks View Post


Electricians Putty (slang name Monkey S..T) available in bricks at Home Depot or Lowes will do. It's incredibly dense, we use it to make silent pellet traps as it stops about anything that vibrates.

 

Is there another name for it? I can't find anything like that through the home depot search.

post #21153 of 23454
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ardgedee View Post

I'm curious what that resistor's doing there, too; hopefully that won't need replacing.

The resistor is probably a special kind, a silistor, a type of PTC (positive temperature coefficient) thermistor. It's an overcurrent protection device. Yours may be a different kind of PTC thermistor, but the function is the same. I've often wondered if it would be possible to restore, at least partially, a typical half-blown electret headphone by simply jumpering these little devils. 

post #21154 of 23454

Good to know.

 

The strain relief, as it turns out, is an overmoulded piece of rubber that isn't glued in place, it's just stuck with friction. So sticking a fine-tip screwdriver between the rubber and the wire at all contact points was enough to loosen it.

 

Right now I'm scrounging for a piece of wire to solder across the gap. You'd think I'd have done the most obvious step already. So would I.

post #21155 of 23454

Something tells me it is a silistor-c... DON"T QUOTE ME THERE I forget which model I got it out of, oh YES it was from a Stax SR-40 I think I used the cable from. Same driver essentially. I may have posted that up in here or in the Philips EM6721 thread which is where the cable is used.

 

Interesting idea about jumpering it. I'd be inclined to replace the thing myself but how often would they be blown, and would it then now be completely dead on one side or?

 

 Have to love the directly damped rears there using that special yellow biscuit. It's what sets these and the stax drivers apart for sure.


Edited by nick n - 2/18/13 at 5:43pm
post #21156 of 23454
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post

 

Is there another name for it? I can't find anything like that through the home depot search.

 



Bugger, I bought a brick there not long ago. It was in the electrical section and I don't have the wrapper around. It's used to seal electrical boxes so if you ask for that they may know. Some one once told me it is the same as industrial duct seal putty so you might want to try that as well.

 

Hot Darn, a demo no less   http://www.schnarff.com/blog/?p=155

 

PS if you have one around the dollar store has chamois (real not fake) for 2 bucks. They also have a neat little leather insole which is foam backed that works a treat for pads.


Edited by Hutnicks - 2/18/13 at 6:10pm
post #21157 of 23454
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post

The resistor is probably a special kind, a silistor, a type of PTC (positive temperature coefficient) thermistor. It's an overcurrent protection device. Yours may be a different kind of PTC thermistor, but the function is the same. I've often wondered if it would be possible to restore, at least partially, a typical half-blown electret headphone by simply jumpering these little devils. 


If you jumper it and it has a spike, are you not in the deep pain zone? Sort of like sticking a penny in a fuse box.

post #21158 of 23454

I'm going to go with permeability being a low priority mostly because the ATH-7 is already open-backed. There might be an affect on the sound, but probably less of one than picking all the rotted glossy coating on the ear pads. So it goes. 

post #21159 of 23454
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hutnicks View Post

 



Bugger, I bought a brick there not long ago. It was in the electrical section and I don't have the wrapper around. It's used to seal electrical boxes so if you ask for that they may know. Some one once told me it is the same as industrial duct seal putty so you might want to try that as well.

 

Hot Darn, a demo no less   http://www.schnarff.com/blog/?p=155

 

PS if you have one around the dollar store has chamois (real not fake) for 2 bucks. They also have a neat little leather insole which is foam backed that works a treat for pads.


Something like this, I guess?

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/14-oz-plumbers-putty-s/959705

(well that one's a plumber putty of some sort)


Edited by kalbee - 2/18/13 at 6:56pm
post #21160 of 23454
Quote:
Originally Posted by kalbee View Post


Something like this, I guess?

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/14-oz-plumbers-putty-s/959705

(well that one's a plumber putty of some sort)


No that stuff is nowhere near as dense.

 

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/duct-seal-1lb-pugs/963529

 

This here is the stuff, and cheap to boot!

post #21161 of 23454

Had trouble trying to assemble everything with the blu-tak involved, so on a lark I put it together without anything.

 

I've got some plumber's putty around here somewhere, and I might try that. The problem with the blu-tak was it wouldn't stay put for long enough to get everything back together; I couldn't make a fine enough bead to fit the space without it trying to shrink a bit.

 

 

So far, with the left side untouched and the right side rewired and gasket scraped out, I can't hear an imbalance. I suspect this has more to do with the foam being hard, brittle and cracked up in the left cup as well than with whether this is an optimal arrangement. Overall things sound pretty good. There's a slight sibilance and not much bass. I'm more worried about the former than the latter; The ATH-7 was never known for slammin' bass. That's what the tone knobs on the receiver are for...

post #21162 of 23454

Are the Unipolar the only electrets that can do bass or what? Then again, in stock form, I don't think they went too much below 80 Hz or whatever either.

post #21163 of 23454

Hah, I just read your post on the Unipolar. I might have to find a set.

 

There's audible bass, but it's pretty rolled off and can sound like it's missing entirely if there's a lot of action in the midrange. I'm listening to "FML" by deadmau5 to see how well that works; without EQ, there's no bass to speak of, but with the 30 Hz and 150 Hz knobs on the receiver turned a little to the right it comes back enough to be audible, if not actually contribute to the energy of the track.

post #21164 of 23454
post #21165 of 23454
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hutnicks View Post


If you jumper it and it has a spike, are you not in the deep pain zone? Sort of like sticking a penny in a fuse box.

You're supposed to be the grownup and make sure it doesn't "has a spike".  Once the silistor is jumpered, you can determine if the 'phone is damaged. If not, replace the silistor.

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