I just found the direct download dropdown on it now
Edited by nick n - 2/17/13 at 12:19am
I'm not aware of any clear grading between heavy and light bass for the HP-3. People seem to not specify how low in Hz their versions actually go.
Assume you have the bass-heavy version no matter what you hear, then mod them with the idea in mind that the bass (in terms of extension) is going to show up once you're done.
I'm finally getting around to taking apart my ATH-7, to fix what I assume is a broken lead or solder point inside the right cup. (and I'm assuming it's that because I could actually get signal by working the strain relief around at the cable exit point for a while.)
Has anybody got a good idea on how to disassemble them? I assumed step 1 was to remove the pad, but it's slow going and I haven't found any screw heads or clips underneath what I've peeled back so far.
I saw these a month ago and seems no one has bitten: http://www.sahibinden.com/listing/alisveris-ev-elektronigi-ev-ses-sistemi-dual-dk-830-hifi-kulaklik-nadir-115304813/detail/
If someone is in turkey maybe a good project for you. Dunno how reliable this site is though. Tread with caution.
Considering they look like practically NOS id say you got a real bargain there.
Im thinking maybe its too close to the driver to serve the purpose you wish?
As a slight tangent - has it ever been proved that angling the drivers does actually increase soundstage?
It's a popular view, but I'm not really convinced.
Soundstage size seems more linked to the size of the ear pad chamber (the space created by the earpad, baffle and size of the head); the openness of the earpad or baffle (I guess reducing resonances in that chamber) and to an extent the frequency response (EQ down treble on a headphone and the soundstage seems to reduce in turn).
I agree that angled earpads dont nescasarily give soundstage. And its been mentioned before, but theres a difference between headstage and soundstage, and the terms are often blurred on headfi so confusion occurs.
Finished up a lower profile pad replacement thought I would post it up in the interest of thread bumpage and possible inspiration for someone who just might need the extra little nudge to do a bit of modding they have been ignoring.
All the crinkles should be gone by tomorrow the cleaner/conditioner i use has a tendency to soak in over a couple days, it's already swelled a fair bit since last night noticeably. This is some of the softest leather I have ever tried, the sort of stuff that after a nice wear in completely seals and feels like it disappears on your head.
Really tempting to replace all of my things with this considering that.
They aren't %100 absolutely perfect, but so close it's not worth worrying , except that the stock pads ( not shown ) have a weaker foam, and it took some double-sided tape to remove all the original flaking coating. ( < boy that's fun and satisfying ) Inner openings are near perfect dimensions.
And they are amazingly comfortable.
These have < 15 minutes listening time total, ever, being a NOS unmodded spare set.
suppose I could have done something in a silver fabric to keep the theme
I Just want to show off two projects that I just recently finished. My first project is a pair of Fostex T50rp which I named Los Matadors.
My second project is a pair of Pioneer SE-L40 with Yamaha HP-1 drivers. I call these the Conquistadors.
For more info on both these headphones check out the link below.
Glad you can finally post pictures.
Looking forward to seeing any further creations or tweaking what you have there already unless you are satisfied, but this place...can make you second guess all the time.
Also don't feel like you have to go nuts on sonic impressions, just say it like you hear it if you decide later on as you get more used to them.
That first picture reminds me of something:
ATH-7 surgery continues slowly...
Found the screw heads. They were hiding under the mostly-rotted plastic liner that covered the ear pads.
Tricky to find because the liner is stretched taut; it took pushing down on the liner to feel for recesses to find them.
There are five screws; at 12:00, 2:00, 8:00, 5:30 and 6:30, the latter two on either side of the cable entry.
This is the current state of the right driver. Gamma deliberately made horrible to emphasize all that black-on-black detail. I hadn't counted on having to replace the seal as well. Will blu-tak work as an improvised gasket?
Next step is to probe the wires to see where the break is. I'm curious what that resistor's doing there, too; hopefully that won't need replacing.
I would maybe consider plumber's putty. A lot softer and easier to work with and easier to remove when needed.
doesn't plumbers putty degas? I have usually steered away from it because of this. A good seal can be had with the window seal they use for RV's = very maleable putty and doesn't dry out..dB
I'm not sure? I've used it in some headphones before and haven't noticed anything. They're usually say if they're safe for plastics or something.
Electricians Putty (slang name Monkey S..T) available in bricks at Home Depot or Lowes will do. It's incredibly dense, we use it to make silent pellet traps as it stops about anything that vibrates.
The current liner is dense closed-cell foam, so I was thinking the optimal replacement would probably be a ring cut from chamois or something similar.
Blah, looks like the gap in the wire is somewhere inside the strain relief, which is weird. Trying to see if there's a way to scooch it down the wire an inch.
But the chamois is breathable is it not?