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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 1391

post #20851 of 23350

Thanks for the reply on that

post #20852 of 23350
Thread Starter 

Yes, nice to see someone still experimenting with Fostex's big driver-- and getting positive results.

post #20853 of 23350

speaking of Fostex Drivers, will whoever outbid me on the Kenwood / Trio KH-83 from the UK please step forward and claim my angsttongue.gif

 

Seriously though if it was someone in here maybe pop in and give us a glimpse of the innards, pwetty pwease.

post #20854 of 23350

SFI transplant part 2 ready =)

 

 

might use the white hd25 velour pads because the center hole is smaller than the usual pads, and i have two pairs of it haha


Edited by Dyaems - 12/5/12 at 9:52pm
post #20855 of 23350

that's going to look really classy in my opinion. Not much depth to those cups it seems like.

post #20856 of 23350

yep, thats the problem. but using the d1001 frame is worse, IMO. its hard to tune it properly with those pads, and cups.

post #20857 of 23350
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick n View Post

Thanks for the reply on that

If you are going to thank me for such trifles, atleast do it properly & send a fat cheque my way. tongue_smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post

Yes, nice to see someone still experimenting with Fostex's big driver-- and getting positive results.

I got back to tinkering them only to adjust to the new pads.The velour pads improve the treble & greatly enhance the soundstage(mostly from the backwave mixing but also from the reduced damping requirements due to better treble extension).

I have ignored these a bit in the recent months partly because I preferred my yammies & partly because they needed a recable.With the new pads & recable these are back to being one of my favorites & will be in regular rotation henceforth.

post #20858 of 23350

Like someone pointed out before: the biggest pads and baffles for a 40 mm driver.

 

1000

 

It's the Grundig GDHS223, also Pacific Concept, also a Fostex T20 clone.

 

1000

 

It's so easy to dismantle, only a screw at the top and the bottom of the cup.

 

1000

 

Only damping is a foam pad, disintegrating by age, as opposed to the better quality Yamaha pads that are still springy 30 years on.

 

1000

 

Membrane coil pattern seems not as fine as the Yamaha, also substantiated by the 50-55 ohm impedance. Implying less speed, but also greater current ability, for those late ´70s heavy rockers monotoring their upcoming hit at ear splitting levels.

 

1000

 

Driver integrated with baffle, just as with the T20.

 

 

1000

 

In this condition - with old, sticky  foam falling apart - sounds a bit bland to me, and I'm not sure a felt damping could do wonders. But I'll give it a go. Pads are in good condition and secured with double sided tape to the baffle, so I don't think there's bass leakage here. Will still put blutak between baffle and cup and see what happens. There's a fine net on the ear side, hardly affects the sound, but the small, perforated baffle might be an obstacle. Does the T20 look the same?

 

1000


Edited by MDR30 - 12/10/12 at 1:00pm
post #20859 of 23350

not sure what you mean, here is a pic on T-20

700

and my t-20's

700


Edited by Congo5 - 12/10/12 at 12:36pm
post #20860 of 23350
Thread Starter 

MDR30: my T20's grille (or grill, if you're hungry) looks just like yours-- the @#$% holes don't line up. I don't know if my T20 is as new as Congo5's, since the little "T20" badges are missing. It's a pro audio headphone what don't need no badges, but they tell me that Congo5's is a late model. I do know that the foam pad in the T20 is different from your Grundig's.

post #20861 of 23350

Does it matter for the holes to line up? I don't think it would make a difference as the pressure should be more or less equalized across the diaphragm surface...

post #20862 of 23350
Quote:
Originally Posted by Congo5 View Post

not sure what you mean, here is a pic on T-20

700

and my t-20's

700

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post

MDR30: my T20's grille (or grill, if you're hungry) looks just like yours-- the @#$% holes don't line up. I don't know if my T20 is as new as Congo5's, since the little "T20" badges are missing. It's a pro audio headphone what don't need no badges, but they tell me that Congo5's is a late model. I do know that the foam pad in the T20 is different from your Grundig's.

 

Seems the driver is bare on Congo5's T20, no mesh or baffle grille, pure magnet. 'Cause I presume that's the ear side on the first pic?

post #20863 of 23350
Thread Starter 

His assembled-T20 photo does show a grille.

 

It probably doesn't make a lot of audible difference, but my OCD kicks in when I see the holes not lining up. Just looks wrong.


Edited by wualta - 12/11/12 at 12:27pm
post #20864 of 23350
Quote:
Originally Posted by MDR30 View Post

 

 

Seems the driver is bare on Congo5's T20, no mesh or baffle grille, pure magnet. 'Cause I presume that's the ear side on the first pic?


Yes .. ear side,Yes bare

 

I got them on ebay ... said new, but who knows..

the T-20's in the other pic have mesh under the baffle.

on top of magnet.

 

I used the bare drivers in Stax housing which had a mesh.

700

post #20865 of 23350
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post
It probably doesn't make a lot of audible difference, but my OCD kicks in when I see the holes not lining up. Just looks wrong.

 

If anything... I think misaligned holes would actually be better for evenly distributing pressure across the diaphragm. Don't quote me on that though. In a perfect world, everything should be equalized and it shouldn't matter since the diaphragm is assumed to be rigid

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