Yes, nice to see someone still experimenting with Fostex's big driver-- and getting positive results.
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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 1391post #20851 of 2464212/5/12 at 8:40amThread Starter
Gear mentioned in this thread:post #20852 of 2464212/5/12 at 5:31pm
speaking of Fostex Drivers, will whoever outbid me on the Kenwood / Trio KH-83 from the UK please step forward and claim my angst
Seriously though if it was someone in here maybe pop in and give us a glimpse of the innards, pwetty pwease.post #20853 of 2464212/5/12 at 9:50pmpost #20854 of 2464212/5/12 at 9:58pmpost #20855 of 2464212/5/12 at 10:07pmpost #20856 of 2464212/6/12 at 12:42am
If you are going to thank me for such trifles, atleast do it properly & send a fat cheque my way.Quote:
I got back to tinkering them only to adjust to the new pads.The velour pads improve the treble & greatly enhance the soundstage(mostly from the backwave mixing but also from the reduced damping requirements due to better treble extension).
I have ignored these a bit in the recent months partly because I preferred my yammies & partly because they needed a recable.With the new pads & recable these are back to being one of my favorites & will be in regular rotation henceforth.post #20857 of 2464212/10/12 at 12:03pm
Like someone pointed out before: the biggest pads and baffles for a 40 mm driver.
It's the Grundig GDHS223, also Pacific Concept, also a Fostex T20 clone.
It's so easy to dismantle, only a screw at the top and the bottom of the cup.
Only damping is a foam pad, disintegrating by age, as opposed to the better quality Yamaha pads that are still springy 30 years on.
Membrane coil pattern seems not as fine as the Yamaha, also substantiated by the 50-55 ohm impedance. Implying less speed, but also greater current ability, for those late ´70s heavy rockers monotoring their upcoming hit at ear splitting levels.
Driver integrated with baffle, just as with the T20.
In this condition - with old, sticky foam falling apart - sounds a bit bland to me, and I'm not sure a felt damping could do wonders. But I'll give it a go. Pads are in good condition and secured with double sided tape to the baffle, so I don't think there's bass leakage here. Will still put blutak between baffle and cup and see what happens. There's a fine net on the ear side, hardly affects the sound, but the small, perforated baffle might be an obstacle. Does the T20 look the same?
Edited by MDR30 - 12/10/12 at 1:00pmpost #20858 of 2464212/10/12 at 12:30pmpost #20859 of 2464212/11/12 at 10:27amThread Starter
MDR30: my T20's grille (or grill, if you're hungry) looks just like yours-- the @#$% holes don't line up. I don't know if my T20 is as new as Congo5's, since the little "T20" badges are missing. It's a pro audio headphone what don't need no badges, but they tell me that Congo5's is a late model. I do know that the foam pad in the T20 is different from your Grundig's.post #20860 of 2464212/11/12 at 12:13pm
Does it matter for the holes to line up? I don't think it would make a difference as the pressure should be more or less equalized across the diaphragm surface...post #20861 of 2464212/11/12 at 12:17pmQuote:Originally Posted by wualta
MDR30: my T20's grille (or grill, if you're hungry) looks just like yours-- the @#$% holes don't line up. I don't know if my T20 is as new as Congo5's, since the little "T20" badges are missing. It's a pro audio headphone what don't need no badges, but they tell me that Congo5's is a late model. I do know that the foam pad in the T20 is different from your Grundig's.
Seems the driver is bare on Congo5's T20, no mesh or baffle grille, pure magnet. 'Cause I presume that's the ear side on the first pic?post #20862 of 2464212/11/12 at 12:25pmThread Starter
His assembled-T20 photo does show a grille.
It probably doesn't make a lot of audible difference, but my OCD kicks in when I see the holes not lining up. Just looks wrong.
Edited by wualta - 12/11/12 at 12:27pmpost #20863 of 2464212/11/12 at 12:28pmQuote:
Yes .. ear side,Yes bare
I got them on ebay ... said new, but who knows..
the T-20's in the other pic have mesh under the baffle.
on top of magnet.
I used the bare drivers in Stax housing which had a mesh.post #20864 of 2464212/11/12 at 12:53pmQuote:
If anything... I think misaligned holes would actually be better for evenly distributing pressure across the diaphragm. Don't quote me on that though. In a perfect world, everything should be equalized and it shouldn't matter since the diaphragm is assumed to be rigidpost #20865 of 2464212/11/12 at 5:57pmThread Starter
I'm not too worried about pressure equalization, though I agree, the pressure (and by extension, frequency response) is the same over the whole diaphragm, back and front. I'm more worried about another layer of reflective surfaces bouncing stuff around more. But meh. It's easily chopped out, and the driver is well protected anyway, which means it's redundant on top of everything else. Annoying to the OCD part of the brain, but Mostly Harmless. In any case, Fostex eliminated the grille in the v2, which I suspect is what we're looking at in Congo5's top photo.
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