We still need to goad you into getting a Beyer COP to transplant an ortho driver into
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Note: All of my listening impressions of the Stax SR-202 were done with a Stax SRM-313 amplifier, which was hooked up to an AMB y2 DAC via the RCA input with SKW JIB braided interconnects. For the...
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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 1388post #20806 of 2252311/20/12 at 1:01am
Gear mentioned in this thread:post #20807 of 2252311/20/12 at 8:00pmThread StarterQuote:
Merciful heavens, yes! I should have mentioned this.
Has anyone tried an ultrasonic cleaner to clean drivers/diaphragms? It would be best to test on a hopeless diaphragm first; a powerful unit can separate glued things. I've been having such good luck cleaning phono cartridge styli using this method I thought I'd mention it.post #20808 of 2252311/20/12 at 8:26pm
where dost thou aquireus such a fortunate item? Assuming the labels are watertight there was mention of cleaning vinyl this way also.
Edited by nick n - 11/20/12 at 8:32pmpost #20809 of 2252311/20/12 at 10:22pmQuote:
Great thread here in Ultrasonic record cleaning.
If you set up a motor to rotate the records slow enough there's not so much worry about the labels.post #20810 of 2252311/21/12 at 1:23amThread Starter
Good link! Those guys are serious, so they bought a model with a long, deep tank. Those models tend to be a little expensive, whereas you can get a smaller, simpler but effective piezo-driver model for less than $25 shipped. Those won't do LPs, but they're plenty big enough to dunk some ortho drivers.post #20811 of 2252311/21/12 at 9:10am
I have a cheap $100 unit and use it on many solid objects ....
Have you seen the youtube videos about tinfoil?
I tried that and it blows holes in the foil in seconds...
I have no idea what it would do to the membranes, kapton etc...
The Fostex that I have look way to thin for me to even think about putting them in.
am I all wet?
post #20812 of 2252311/21/12 at 9:55amThread Starter
Even with the little plastic-lined cleaners, I repeat that I'd try an experimental dunk first before trying to clean anything that relies on adhesives, although I've cleaned many phono styli (where the diamond is held on with epoxy) and haven't lost a diamond yet. If it wasn't powerful enough to blow holes in something as fragile as aluminum foil, why bother with it?
I should emphasize that I'm only suggesting this as a last-ditch solution for someone with a nonfunctioning driver who has little or nothing to lose (like Nick N's situation), not as a tweak for clearer sound.
Edited by wualta - 11/22/12 at 11:02ampost #20813 of 2252311/21/12 at 10:11amQuote:
Thanks for the sanity check because I'm about to recable a YH1 and I was really wondering wth an ultrasonic cleaner would do to its drivers....I didn't see much luck of ending up with a clearer soundpost #20814 of 2252311/21/12 at 11:32pmQuote:Originally Posted by wualta
Merciful heavens, yes! I should have mentioned this.
Has anyone tried an ultrasonic cleaner to clean drivers/diaphragms? It would be best to test on a hopeless diaphragm first; a powerful unit can separate glued things. I've been having such good luck cleaning phono cartridge styli using this method I thought I'd mention it.
The absolute BEST way to clean a stylus is with the Mister Clean 'Magic Eraser' material. You can find a few threads about it on Audiogon. Doug Deacon discovered it a few years ago. Here's how you use it: Cut a sugar cube sized piece of the material (roughly 1/2 x 1/2 x 3/4 inch) poke a hole in one end with a swizzle stick or similar. Then glue the stick into the hole w/ super glue. All you do is lift the material up to the stylus and back down (turn up the volume slightly so you can 'hear' what you're doing). That's it! The expanded plastic fibers in the ME will polish your stylus to a new gem-like sparkle, without liquid, ultrasound, adhesives, Onzo gel, etc. It will even remove the grunge that jambs up behind the stylus/cantilever. You can finish with a soft camel hair brush to remove any loose debris.
For cleaning parts, there's a new solvent out that is amazing! It's from Dow and is the environmentally friendly replacement (finally!) for good ole (poisonous) carbon tetrachloride. It's called CC Contact Cleaner (it dries as fast as ether, no residue, won't melt anything ;~) Music Direct sells it as 'Premier Record Cleaner' but you can buy the same stuff for half the price here:
Edited by nsgarch - 11/21/12 at 11:34pmpost #20815 of 2252311/22/12 at 1:49amThread Starter
Thanks for the tips. At the risk of taking this thread all the way off-topic into Audiogon territory: You're right about the ME ("Magic Eraser"). I've been using bits of BASF Basotect melamine foam to clean my styli and my countertops for a few years now. It was when I came across some gunk on a very expensive boron stylus that resisted the foam and every solvent I had on hand that I resorted to the ultrasonic bath method. It not only works better for truly abused styli, it also cleans the entire stylus assembly, including the cantilever and the elastomer suspension, if it's exposed. No solvents except water and a little spray cleaner. After that, the ME treatment maintains the diamond's clean.
Some people despise the ME and favor a $50 sticky widget good for only one thing. I prefer multipurpose widgets for my money. It's a choice, y'know?
That MicroCare/Dupont Vertrel-based contact cleaner might come in handy as an adjunct to DeoxIT. Or a tape head cleaner to replace good old Freon TF.
Edited by wualta - 11/30/12 at 7:49pmpost #20816 of 2252311/22/12 at 9:38amQuote:
I am (soon) going to be rewiring a YH-1 (and making it balanced too) and thought the CCC would address the subject of cleaning the driver, etc. and (so far anyway!) has not destroyed anything I've applied it to. Music Direct sells it (at twice the price!) as a record cleaning solvent, but it steam all my records, so wouldn't use it for that anyway (and even at half the MD price it's not cost effective ;~)
BTW, could you direct me to posts on this very long thread, or perhaps on some other threads where damping mods, etc, for the Yamahas are gathered (photos etc.)
Neilpost #20817 of 2252311/22/12 at 1:05pmThread Starter
We are fortunate to have a[n updated! thanks, ludoo!] dedicated search engine for both text and images on this thread, which has obviated the nightmare of trying to collect, edit, evaluate and re-post the mod posts, especially since people tend to have eureka moments months, sometimes years, after their initial mod rush. It was given to us by longtime ortho stalwart ludoo, and it can't help but help you. Besides, there is no single formula, no "best", no "so good no one could possibly pick it apart or improve it" mod.
It's best, I think, to try to understand some of the underlying mechanics that make sound, and the things that try to reproduce it, work; then listen, decide what needs improving the most, come up with a strategy, then see if anyone's tried it. Learn about reflection, absorption, diffusion, waves and wavelength, pressure, resonance, standing waves and cancellation and do some reading on the weirdnesses of the human ear-brain. If you read the first few pages of this thread you'll at least have an idea of what you're up against and how to solve some of the most glaring failings of the typical vintage ortho. I should say that a non-vintage ortho like the popular Fostex T50RP requires a very different problem-solving set, although all of the underlying mechanics are the same.
Edited by wualta - 11/24/12 at 1:37pmpost #20818 of 2252311/22/12 at 1:25pmQuote:
Erm, it hasn't updated itself because I'm too lazy to schedule the update script to run each night by itself... :) I'll do it soon, in the meantime I've just launched an update.Quote:Originally Posted by wualta
It's best, I think, to try to understand some of the underlying mechanics that makes sound and the things that try to reproduce it work, then listen, decide what needs improving the most, come up with a strategy, then see if anyone's tried it. Learn about reflection, absorption, diffusion, waves and wavelength, pressure, resonance, standing waves and cancellation...
+1 I remembed a post by rythmdevil which was the best summary I've read in this thread on damping techniques and effects, it should be pinned somewhere, but I cannot find it anymore...post #20819 of 2252311/22/12 at 1:50pm
hi nsgarch, the mod, that you can find as
Tomek's guide #2 to YH-100 modification
on wikiphonia gave me some ideas. The yh/hp-1 has similar "problems": there is not much space behind the driver and in the center of the back there is a nasty metal part (for the joint). but before going that far it would be a good idea to try the classic sandwich felt-foam-felt and hear what you get.post #20820 of 2252311/22/12 at 5:16pmQuote:http://www.head-fi.org/t/111193/orthodynamic-roundup/18570#post_8023377Originally Posted by ludoo
Erm, it hasn't updated itself because I'm too lazy to schedule the update script to run each night by itself... I'll do it soon, in the meantime I've just launched an update.
+1 I remembed a post by rythmdevil which was the best summary I've read in this thread on damping techniques and effects, it should be pinned somewhere, but I cannot find it anymore...
In fact we should all print it (along with the monkey picture) and stick it near our workbench!
- Orthodynamic Roundup
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