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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 1387

post #20791 of 23376

I have a question to all of you, who have some SFI experience:

does it make sense to make a driver out of three SFI's - 2 of the 8 ohm tweeters, respective their magnets with the holes, plus the diaphragma of the 32 ohm dipole?

The reason that I ask is that the 8 ohm 2 in 1 SFI that I made is the "nearest headphone to the electostats" in terms of transparency and clarity of all other headphones that I listened so far. but they lack in bass too much. The reason for their precision could be the stronger magnets - they have also a higher sensitivity as tweeters than the 32 ohm types (which have smaller and weaker magnets). this results in a better control of the diaphragma.

my idea is that the 32 ohm diaphragma could exert a higher dynamic force against the strong magnets and get more extention = bass.

any comments are welcome!

post #20792 of 23376
Quote:
Originally Posted by FuglyPhones View Post

Thanks TiEx for these tips. I'm driving the TDS-7 with my KingRex speaker amp which I believe is just fine with the 8 ohm load.

 

I have seen those open pack mod picks in some Russian forum but I don't want to go that far. I'm not willing to cut any holes to the structure. 

 

I will definitely try to remove that wool from the drivers. What about the round opening in front of the drivers? Would it be better to expose the whole driver?

 

Edit: Don't open the drivers on these if you are not 100% confident about what you are doing. There are some nasty loose magnets that brake the membrane more than easily. I bricked mine :D Unfortunately I can't comment how removing the wool affects the sound :D

 

Please let me know if somebody has spare membrane for TDS-7. I can also sell these to someone as spare parts. The other membrane is still fine.

To bad to hear this. Yes it is a tricky procedure of disassembling the TDS-7 driver. You must be 110% careful and glueing the magnets to the body of driver is needed for easy assembling. Exposure of driver in front of ear must cover all four driver openings. I mean those openings must have free way to the ear, with some very light damping. I've heard many stories of bad luck with TDS-7 mods. Some guys tear up the membrane or conductive layer. Some brake the magnets or body. You definetely need some skills here. I think I'l get my self to pairs prior to start modding. This way I will have all spare parts.

post #20793 of 23376
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiEx View Post

To bad to hear this. Yes it is a tricky procedure of disassembling the TDS-7 driver. You must be 110% careful and glueing the magnets to the body of driver is needed for easy assembling. Exposure of driver in front of ear must cover all four driver openings. I mean those openings must have free way to the ear, with some very light damping. I've heard many stories of bad luck with TDS-7 mods. Some guys tear up the membrane or conductive layer. Some brake the magnets or body. You definetely need some skills here. I think I'l get my self to pairs prior to start modding. This way I will have all spare parts.

Nice to hear that I'm not the only one screwing things up. Please let me know if you run into a spare membrane. I will also contact the guy who sold me these and ask if he has one spare.

 

I should have glued the magnets. They pulled themselves out of their sockets and cut the conductive layer of the membrane ever so slightly but deadly. One of the magnets was already in two pieces when I opened the driver. At least I now know much more about orthos than I did before :) 

post #20794 of 23376
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick n View Post

 

 

 

 

 As far as I am aware there is a confirmed Sansui L-55 ortho, I could not find hide nor hear ( yeah play on words there ) of this elusive beast in any catalogs etc . What strikes me is that even the L-55 is labeled as a DYNAMIC yet it is confirmed to be orthotic in physiology.

Where does this particular beast hide ( nocturnal closet habitations? ), what is their secret environment , and what amount of population still exists out there?

 

This seems to be eerily similar to the L-55, what gives? Will the world actually believe this sighting out in the wild is an ortho or will it come down to a dissection. The cryptophonology hunt continues.

 BTW this currently up at that site of germanic origin:)  No pay-buddy.

just came across this info:

http://www.audiocircuit.com/Home-Audio/Sansui/SSL-3

same name but different look?

40mm dynamic driver with 60 ohms, 500mW

 

on a second look there is a different name: L3 versus L33

maybe the same name scheme as with the L5 and L55?


Edited by bruma - 11/11/12 at 12:01pm
post #20795 of 23376
Thread Starter 

Fuglyphones: Ouch! I know the feeling all too well. Any chance of repair with a conductive-ink pen or brush?

post #20796 of 23376
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post

Fuglyphones: Ouch! I know the feeling all too well. Any chance of repair with a conductive-ink pen or brush?

Thanks for the sympathy. I tried to do some repairs but it went worse and is beyond repair now :) This has been a good learning experience for me! Well, I'm enjoying my AMT at the moment and try to forget what happened this morning. I'm sure I will find some spares somewhere someday. Sad thing is that I just started to like them.

 

I'm already looking a new set of orthos or maybe some stats. A good reason to buy a new pair of phones.

post #20797 of 23376

(Throws shovel aside with a heavy thud and wipes face off with forearm )

 

11 layers of pages deep.confused_face_2.gif

So deep there weren't even any crickets. Just some antediluvian Atlantean deposits, power crystal shards, vril wands etc..

 

Was going to get into taking apart the left side of a pair of Fostex T-10's to see about cleaning off the diaphragm. Getting a little bit of intermediate staticing out. More power cures it.

 

I have an MG Chemicals electronics zero-residue spray that is safe for plastics, but I sort of don't trust that. Will slightly less sticky green painter's masking tape be sufficient to dab on the thing to pick up any possible grime or bitties?

 I certainly don't want things to fall apart with hype-r-inflationary orthotic prices these days.

 

There is some extreme care need to take these apart isn't there?

Any issues with lining everything back up again??

if it is easy enough might as well do both drivers

 

 

thank youze guyze very much for any particulars.


Edited by nick n - 11/19/12 at 12:28am
post #20798 of 23376

T-10 disassembly:

 

To clean the disphragm, I just used some clear magic tape. The kind that is easy to peel off and restick to surfaces. You could also just wipe them down with water or alcohol. I soaked mine in rubbing alcohol without any ill effect.

 

The static could possibly be just lousy or corroding terminals. They're pretty old after all. Best to check the solder joints at the jack and driver.

 

The T-10 is surprisingly easy to take apart. Poke around the edge of the pads to find the three screws holding the baffle down. You don't even have to take the pad off; just peel it back a few mm at the appropriate spots to reach the screws. Once inside, you'll find some yellow rock wool and the driver assembly held down with four screws. Take out the screws and remove the retaining ring while holding down the magnet just to make sure it doesn't pop out. Or it might actually be glued down, in which case some careful prying with a small screwdriver would be necessary. Once that's out, the diaphragm and second magnet come out no problem.

 

The diaphragm itself can come apart into three pieces: the top and bottom metal rings, and the membrane in between.

 

edit: minor clarifications


Edited by Armaegis - 11/19/12 at 7:11am
post #20799 of 23376

wow thanks i was hoping you would pop into this, I was going to PM you but figured this info will be good for others to see also.

 

Will check in after I get to this.

Thanks again

post #20800 of 23376
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post


while holding down the magnet just to make sure it doesn't pop out.

Most important! And if you happen to damage it pm me, I have a spare.
post #20801 of 23376

If anybody interested. I am selling my modded Elektronika TDS-5m orthodynamics. You can see the details in my signature, or just look at the Sale/trade headphones forum.

post #20802 of 23376
Quote:
Originally Posted by TiEx View Post

If anybody interested. I am selling my modded Elektronika TDS-5m orthodynamics. You can see the details in my signature, or just look at the Sale/trade headphones forum.

 

Looks good! Personally I've got a NOS aniso HP1 up for grabs/trade, otherwise it'll go back to where it came from within a few days ^^

post #20803 of 23376
Thread Starter 

It's always good to be reminded that Fostex diaphragms disassemble for maintenance. I don't know about the T10, but the contemporary T20 and T40 magnets were found to repel most strongly at one point, so you should mark the magnets so you can put them back in the same position relative to one another. And as dBel84 underlined, the magnets are repelling, strongly, so hold them together until that last screw comes out, then keep your hands on them so they don't fly off and conk a cat on the head.

post #20804 of 23376

Nah, the more dangerous scenario is that the magnet pops up, shifts over, then snaps back down.

post #20805 of 23376

all good points , taken into consideration.

 

Was both a sad and exciting night, as i waved goodbye to the Alder Koss TD/80 project. It got gifted finally.

Did it up with a nice form fitted foam padding overlaid with tan velour, all in a velour lined brown suede storage box with extra adapter, earside foam discs, PA2V2, extension cable and a couple test discs.

 

They hadn't heard much decent stuff since some old crappy Alder modded SFI's last year ( cringe )

 this blows that pair clean away.

 Now onto something else


Edited by nick n - 11/20/12 at 12:21am
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