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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 1348

post #20206 of 24682

Er, I think there's a bit of a mix-up in units here. Mils = 10^-3 inch, millimeter = 10^-3 meter, micron = 10^-6 meter. Faust's wiki has an error in it, says "Diaphragm thickness is 12 microns of polyester, with the aluminum voice coil plated (or glued) 9mm thick on top of that." 9mm is ridiculously thick, it should say 9 microns.

post #20207 of 24682
Quote:
Originally Posted by mypasswordis View Post

Er, I think there's a bit of a mix-up in units here. Mils = 10^-3 inch, millimeter = 10^-3 meter, micron = 10^-6 meter. Faust's wiki has an error in it, says "Diaphragm thickness is 12 microns of polyester, with the aluminum voice coil plated (or glued) 9mm thick on top of that." 9mm is ridiculously thick, it should say 9 microns.

More like a micrometer, or μm. :P  Micron isn't really a correct SI term.

 

/science nerd nitpicking

post #20208 of 24682

Has anyone had to deal with loose connector tabs in the past? The ones on the pair of SFI drivers I currently have are very loose and causes signal drops... does anyone have a remedy, be it temporary or permanent?

post #20209 of 24682
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mypasswordis View Post

Er, I think there's a bit of a mix-up in units here.

Whoops, yeah-- I've been staring too intensely at phono styli recently. They're still measured in inches or mils. But all the 1st-gen Yamaphragms I've seen specs for are the same thicknesses.

 

And yeah, the micron and urcron aren't official anymore. Still, gotta maintain backwards compatibility with all the old Yamaspecs, y'know?

post #20210 of 24682
Quote:
Originally Posted by kalbee View Post

Has anyone had to deal with loose connector tabs in the past? The ones on the pair of SFI drivers I currently have are very loose and causes signal drops... does anyone have a remedy, be it temporary or permanent?


just to clarify this the tabs are able to be moved side to side and are very loose, and if you do so it causes channel dropouts . Does the silver housing look like it has ever been opened up, or does it appear clean without any signs of previous openings? ( smooth )

 

I know folks have dealt with this in the center pinned drivers, but as far as the SFI's I don't know how you would approach this  unless you opened them up and reclamped or somehow glued them back together. They are not obviously center-pinned but held on the outer edges.

 

 

Anyone have any suggestions for a maddening problem like this?

 

maybe tack glue them in place from the outside where the tabs emerge at a point where they maintain a stable output, to stop them from shifting around?

 

Hopefully get better advice than that though :)


Edited by nick n - 7/12/12 at 10:24pm
post #20211 of 24682
Thread Starter 

A little shot of conductive ink might be sticky enough to hold the connection. Failing that, conductive glue. The trick would be injecting just a tiny bit in there. Then you'd clamp it and it'd probably do the happy-ending thing.

post #20212 of 24682

Thanks for the input nick,

 

I actually had to remove the drivers that were glued to a baffle, that may have caused warping to the exterior frame (the other one was already slightly warped)... While I don't think these have been opened up before, the edges have sign of wear and

 

Gluing the thing together might be a viable solution although pretty punishing if ever badly executed. As I originally tried just pushing it upwards/downwards with some blue tack (too soft to hold it in place), it would work but the same results may not necessarily be met when the other tab is under external pressure. Ugh, I'm bad at expressing myself. Basically securing one tab first would require the other tab to be moved a specific way relative to the first tab's position (or at least it seemed), which can also mean the first tab's position does not allow the second tab to connect the signal.

Not an impossible task, I just have to find adequate glue (possibly removable if I mess up).

 

Will edit to post the picture of the drivers.

 

So here you can see my temporary fix for the drivers... but it's not ergonomic as I may just create a short with a little pressure on any of the two tabs.

Right driver (Click to show)

IMG_0297.JPG

IMG_0298.JPG

Left driver (Click to show)

IMG_0299.JPG

IMG_0300.JPG


Edited by kalbee - 7/13/12 at 12:23am
post #20213 of 24682

is placing them directly over top of each other the only spot to get sound out of them? They are gonna short out a lot. But you knew that right.

post #20214 of 24682

Got myself an almost mint looking and flawless sounding pair of HP-50a on eBay for ~40€,

and am about to recable them for stereo playback.

 

Any tips or mod? They sound fine, quite neutral with recessed treble...

I like them quite a bit so far, but they can't seem to render violins at all :D

 

263

 

cool thing the seller still had the original box.


Edited by roBernd - 7/13/12 at 6:58am
post #20215 of 24682
Quote:
Originally Posted by kalbee View Post

Has anyone had to deal with loose connector tabs in the past? The ones on the pair of SFI drivers I currently have are very loose and causes signal drops... does anyone have a remedy, be it temporary or permanent?

I see others have responded , I have opened a few of these and closed them again by simply rolling the edge  of the frame with a pair of wide / flat nose pliers. You can get pretty good apposition and it may be enough to restore permanent contact ( that is if I am understanding the problem well enough ) 

 

..dB

 

EDIT: great deal roBernd - still one of my favourite yammas. I would recommend single entry recable, dual entry can be tricky and may damage the pristine appearance. Make sure you print images of exactly where the clips are to release the baffle from the cup to minimize damage to the pads. Damping is obviously user dependent but these can make you weep with violin music so I would recommend you try damping them. Try Ludoo's guide as a starting point and use his search tool to find other resources . good luck 

 

another edit - get rid of that white paper disc in front of the driver 


Edited by dBel84 - 7/13/12 at 9:47am
post #20216 of 24682
Quote:
Originally Posted by dBel84 View Post

EDIT: great deal roBernd - still one of my favourite yammas. I would recommend single entry recable, dual entry can be tricky and may damage the pristine appearance. Make sure you print images of exactly where the clips are to release the baffle from the cup to minimize damage to the pads. Damping is obviously user dependent but these can make you weep with violin music so I would recommend you try damping them. Try Ludoo's guide as a starting point and use his search tool to find other resources . good luck 

 

another edit - get rid of that white paper disc in front of the driver 

 

 

Thank you for your post.

 

woops, read that a bit to late, so the paper discs are still inside. The dampening material still felt good and stable, so i just re-inserted it after I was done, consider felt or something similar though.

After not getting it to open for a while, I found exactly this tutorial, -> Thank you very much @Ludoo.

 

I don't know what it is that sounds different atm... it might just be my mind tricking me, but either the reduction form 300 to 150 ohms or... well, stereo has improved them a little. (the latter certainly did) Still hard to drive loud even after the impedance drop.

How does removing the paper disc help in tems of SQ? Treble, upper mids, similar to removing the felt in front of the t50rp driver I guess, but dunno.

 

Coming from a K240 Sextett (MP) with the regular mods, no other headphone will ever make me weep with violins. :D

Voices seem to be the trump of the HP-50a (stereo), and the bass, while it doesn't extend very deep (quite good for an ortho though) it manages to sound just right.

 

Some tinkering might do the trick... but so far, not bad at all!

 

mandatory picture, added a 2,5m cord. I don't intend on using them as a portable, just wanted to test the limits of my cmoy...

-> had to almost max volume on both, the clip+ and the cmoy :V

 

done.jpg

post #20217 of 24682
Quote:
Originally Posted by dBel84 View Post

I see others have responded , I have opened a few of these and closed them again by simply rolling the edge  of the frame with a pair of wide / flat nose pliers. You can get pretty good apposition and it may be enough to restore permanent contact ( that is if I am understanding the problem well enough ) 

 

..dB

This. Move the contacts apart from one another, get some pliers and just clamp the metal ring as tight as you can. Worked for me.

post #20218 of 24682
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick n View Post

is placing them directly over top of each other the only spot to get sound out of them? They are gonna short out a lot. But you knew that right.

No I can get sound out of them in other fashion but if the driver is moved in any way in 3D space, the signal can cut off completely or temporarily.
The current method does have the possibility to short out but it actually rarely happens.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by dBel84 View Post

I see others have responded , I have opened a few of these and closed them again by simply rolling the edge  of the frame with a pair of wide / flat nose pliers. You can get pretty good apposition and it may be enough to restore permanent contact ( that is if I am understanding the problem well enough ) 

 

..dB

Quote:
Originally Posted by khbaur330162 View Post

This. Move the contacts apart from one another, get some pliers and just clamp the metal ring as tight as you can. Worked for me.

Phew... sounds easy enough. I'll do exactly that and will report back on results. Thanks for the inputs!

post #20219 of 24682
Quote:
Originally Posted by dBel84 View Post

I see others have responded , I have opened a few of these and closed them again by simply rolling the edge  of the frame with a pair of wide / flat nose pliers. You can get pretty good apposition and it may be enough to restore permanent contact ( that is if I am understanding the problem well enough ) 

 

..dB

This. Move the contacts apart from one another, get some pliers and just clamp the metal ring as tight as you can.

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

See that gap? Squeeze it tight on either side and make sure it's got a good grip of the magnet. Worked for me.
 
350x263px-LL-2e83b06b_IMG_0297.jpg

 

post #20220 of 24682

Yep, I see the gap. Didn't notice it before.

I also noticed that the top magnet (in the orientation of the picture) was slightly offset from the bottom one. Pushing it inwards makes the tabs more secure.

Had a little trouble getting it to hold but now it seems pretty good! The tabs aren't solid but they're not meant to be played around with anyway.

 

Looks like my temporary remedy stressed the wire too much at the solder point and broke off on the left driver (old cables by the way). Gotta resolder that together. The left driver on the other hand is a little different: when pressing the driver enclosure together to close the gap I can hear a plastic sound... kind of like driver flexing. Would that be the insulating plastic layer inside the enclosure, or the diaphragm itself? If the former then no problem, otherwise I must rethink my clamping method.

 

**EDIT** Must be the diaphragm, I see reflection changes from the magnet holes when I press the enclosure down.


Edited by kalbee - 7/13/12 at 9:27pm
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