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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 1342

post #20116 of 24682

vodka and orange juice ( a Screwdriver ), I had never considered that , I guess it would make therm sound better.

 

Where'd you get them from?

post #20117 of 24682
Quote:
Originally Posted by JadeEast View Post

screw.png

 

!

post #20118 of 24682

Haha, more of a whiskey guy herebiggrin.gif

I got the better sounding one in ebay and the other in craigslist.
 

post #20119 of 24682

My apologies if the first picture was a bit obtuse.

ItsaHP1morning.JPG

Hope this one is better.

post #20120 of 24682
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post

You and scompton [he used Sony XB700 pads] may have double-handedly saved the T30's tiny behind. These pads should be available worldwide, and availability is everything in the ortho world.

yes Walt, at first i try to get an XB*00 pads but its too hard to purchase here on indonesia...many SUBJECT (OEM/KO version of Sony XB*00 series) seller refuse to ship outside US..
so, there i go purchase other pads that would suit on T30..

Quote:
Originally Posted by nick n View Post

iQEM: I see the center openings are about 2 times bigger on those pads , do you happen to notice a change in the sound with that ( more spacious and/or less bass )  I'm just curious.

indeed, more spacious and more depth on bass (with layer)...i like it a lot more when using this V700 pads than the stock flat ones, no doubt...wink.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by khbaur330162 View Post

V700DJ pads are very comfy, but the vinyl will rip eventually (not flake off, they're not nearly as bad as some Sony pads) and they're circumaural. Careful, there's lots of Chinese knock-offs. 

so, i just try this cheap one and finding they not bad either...but yes, i think this one are chinesse knock-off as well...
actually i have 1 sheets of full lamb skin at drawer, just in case the vinyl rip later...
the thickness+diameter of this pads still suit with my needs though...wink.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhythmdevils View Post

Nice iQem!  Can't go wrong with 5 dollar pads.  I just ordered a pair for my collection. 

yep, i guess this is good (not to mention, cheap) alternative for other ortho that have similarity on the baffle diametre... smily_headphones1.gif
post #20121 of 24682
Quote:
Originally Posted by iQEM View Post
so, i just try this cheap one and finding they not bad either...but yes, i think this one are chinesse knock-off as well...
actually i have 1 sheets of full lamb skin at drawer, just in case the vinyl rip later...
the thickness+diameter of this pads still suit with my needs though...wink.gif

If yours are knockoffs they look like darn nice ones to me. The replacements I bought are a very far cry from both yours and the stock pair that I have. FWIW it took the stock pads a few years and some modder's abuse to finally tear in a few places, but once it started it just went.

 

If I'm reading you right I agree with you: bass sounds nicer in a larger (or if possible completely absent) ear chamber. Room to blossom? That said, switching back to supra-aural pads on my AT-707's makes the bass a bit more tactile and reach deeper, apart from other things. Hence Nick's inquiries I imagine. In a perfect world ortho drivers would move as much air as a K1000, right? Dampin' dream.

post #20122 of 24682
Quote:
Originally Posted by ferrytrainhp1 View Post

thanks for all the info guys. The original pads are alright in terms of condition but not great, as the leather is starting to flake and the left side is pinching my ear, have to figure out why that is...

I thought that the sony v150 pads would be cheaply made and uncomfortable as the V150s were a cheap headphone If I am not mistaken, I had a pair which broke and the pads were not the most luxurious material. also, what adhesive would be the best to use for re attaching the pads?

 

again , thanks for the massive amount of info and trouble you guys have gone to, it certainly gives one something to think about :)

 

ferrytrain
 

what adhesive would be the best to use for re attaching the pads? ----


I like Aleene's Tacky Glue: Tack-It Over & Over .   There are several types of Aleene's so make sure it says Tack-It Over & Over.  I found that it dries well enough to hold the pads on good but it is designed so you can pull the pads off (without damaging them).  That is handy if you want to experiment with different pads or if you are tuning the damping material on the headphones.  The glue goes on white.  You wait until it starts to turn clear.  Then you join the pieces you are gluing.

post #20123 of 24682

I cut small pieces of carpet tape and essentially made a ring on the baffle.  It's OK, but I really need something a little better.  The tape I used isn't very good and the pads don't really stay on.  I generally have to readjust them every time I listen and they frequently fall off as I pick up or put down the headphones.

post #20124 of 24682

popcorn.gif

post #20125 of 24682

Go to a local art supplies store and find some thin double sided tape, usually in large ~9 by 12 inch sheet form for scrapbooks or mounting things.  You can then easily cut out a ring with scissors. Easiest way to go. Cuts just like paper.

I use Doubletack Mounting Film.

post #20126 of 24682

Scotch double sided tape or contact cement for me. 

post #20127 of 24682

So I finally took the plunge, and found some old orthos to try after reading a considerable portion of this thread. It sure is a lot to take in. I got a pair of old Audio Technica ATH-2 on auction. So far, I'm really liking what I'm hearing. Previously, I've been using Grado SR-125's. I'm driving them with an LD1+, and really like the results. Definitely warmer than the Grado's, but still very detailed and non-fatiguing. Next step is to try to mod them, so it's time to start searching the thread again!

post #20128 of 24682
Thread Starter 

Peel back the earpads to find the screws, pull it apart, and try a layer of cheap thin felt on the back of the driver, using the foam to hold it in place. If the foam is disintegrating, find some open-cell foam to replace it. That will give you a good start. Some photos you may find helpful are here.

post #20129 of 24682

That was going to be my first attempt. Thanks for the pics. That should help a lot.

post #20130 of 24682

From dBel84

"A fellow enthusiast recently asked me to take a look at their YH100 as one driver was not working. He also asked if I could document the process which I duly oblidged and thought I would post it here for anyone to reference in the future."

 

I just got the repaired YH-100 driver in the mail today from dBel84.  What a magnificent job. I took a few pictures (which was hard because I was pretty anxious to get it re-installed ).  I am re-installing the driver as it was originally, making no YH-100 mods right now until I have had a chance to really get familiar with the stock sound.  The attached pictures show the driver as it arrived, the re-installation steps and the final result.

 

Here is just the driver -

YH-100_right_driver_repaired.jpg

 

Back in the shell -

YH-100_right_driver_reassembly_01.jpg

 

Cleaned old glue off outer cover

YH-100_right_driver_reassembly_02.jpg

 

Appied some Tack It Over And Over. The left pic shows it as it first goes on. Second pic shows it ready to use.

YH-100_right_driver_reassembly_03.jpg

 

Back ready for action

YH-100_right_driver_reassembly_04.jpg

 

I can also report that my initial listen was really good.  I can't thank dBel84 enough.  He really saved this set of orthos.

 

-sonavor

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