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post #18196 of 23459

Bastards.  We need to occupy D&M Holdings. 

 

So I think Fostex was onto something putting thin porous paper (ish) stuff behind their more recent orthos including the T20v2 and T50rp.  I've been playing with coffee filters and they are my new favorite damping material.  I'm going to be getting a bunch of different porous papers to try if I can source that somewhere.  I'm thinking an online art store or something.  But coffee filters do a much better job than the tapes IME.  They bring out more treble while bringing out less upper midrange peaks.  And IME they do not constrict the soundstage any more than a thin piece of felt would when placed on the back of the driver.  I've been using the coffee filter instead of the first layer of felt in the typical damping scheme, so driver-paper-foam-felt-cups.  They work so well at bringing out treble that they can actually get my YH3 to have elevated treble without much of an elevated midrange.  Which is a first for me.  I actually get some sibilance unless I use a donut instead of a disc, so I'm going to try to find some slightly more porous paper. 

 

I found some silk coffee filters online which must be from the 1800's or early 1900's but they are way too porous even when I use like 6 layers.  They have a cool old box though. 

post #18197 of 23459

antique silk coffee filters... as diaphragm damping materials... only on headfi cool.gif

 

Why not just a regular bit of silk then? no sense burning up antique silk coffee finery.

post #18198 of 23459
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post

Still... might come in handy if we need to find a better alloy of aluminium for voice coils.


Pfft, might as well forgo the voice coil and just do an ortho with vapor deposited silver traces with amorphous microstructure. Next step beyond that would probably be some mixture of carbon nanotubes to achieve semiconductivity at room temperature.

 

post #18199 of 23459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post

antique silk coffee filters... as diaphragm damping materials... only on headfi cool.gif

 

Why not just a regular bit of silk then? no sense burning up antique silk coffee finery.



Hey why not?  But I didn't buy them as rare antiques.  I was hoping I could find different porousities of coffee filters, or some fancy gourmet ones, which I couldn't really find surprisingly, and those silk ones were for sale pretty cheap at a coffee store.  I don't think silk material would have the same effect as a paper filter, it would be more like a light felt. 

post #18200 of 23459

I have used lens cleaning microfibre to good effect..dB

post #18201 of 23459
Quote:
Originally Posted by dBel84 View Post

I have used lens cleaning microfibre to good effect..dB



what phone(s) did you try that on, and how did it sound?

post #18202 of 23459

I have used it in various headphone mods yamaha, sfi and fostex - it has good damping and reflective properties..dB

post #18203 of 23459

TDS stands for "Dynamic Stereophonic Telephones". "Head Telephone" is same as headphone, just a different term. So it's merely a dynamic stereophonic headphone. Some electret headphones produced in USSR were not named TDS (I'm not sure they were named at all, as it seems that they have not been mass produced).

post #18204 of 23459
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nevod View Post

TDS stands for "Dynamic Stereophonic Telephones". "Head Telephone" is same as headphone, just a different term. So it's merely a dynamic stereophonic headphone. Some electret headphones produced in USSR were not named TDS (I'm not sure they were named at all, as it seems that they have not been mass produced).

 

 

THANKS! That clears it up a bit more.

 

If anyone cares:

 

Went for another Hardware Store visit. Most of this applies to SFI mods, but not all.

 A very nice and cheap fiberfill product can be had in  those floor vent filters. Basically a more dense version of its big brother/tighter "weave". Also it comes in thin sheets so no tear and end up with wierd shaped blobs. 24 sheets for $4.

 

As far as dense felt pads. I have had these for ages I just wish I had remebered before doing all sorts of other stuff instead.

They are buffing wheel/polishing wheel backings. There is a 1/4" thick ultra dense felt pad with a harder velcro-fuzz disc glued to the back where the sanding pad mounts to. Usually used with some sort of bracket adapter thing on a drill, etc.

the harder disc should be easy enough to strip off, and I can't believe how dense this stuff is. It's striking actually ( who uses that term anymore, gee willikers )

 

I found a secret weapon (possibly ) in an old relatively unused halfmask respirator cartridge. I had been thinking of one of these for a while.

 I don't recommend cutting these open unless you have a vacuum handy. Loose charcoal.

 It gives you a circular baffled filter made from what appears to be soft fuzzy paper filter material. Love the surface area, but it bruises easily, VERY easily. The baffle effect may help diffuse a backwave( that's my theory anyhow ). Ever since getting a hint in the T50 thread about baffling I wanted to find a small usable version. This is it also circular already.

5/8 inches thick ( ~ 1.5 cm )

As well as that there are two fabricy discs that are also potential mods, smoother on one side rougher on the other. These held the charcoal in it's chamber. it reminds me of the dustfilter on the hepa vacuum I have. That sort of fabric where you try to wash it and not much luck with water penetration.

I wouldn't recommend buying these particular respirator filters, too much $, but there may be cheaper alternatives with similar circular baffle filters.

 

Don't waste your money on forstner bits which I saw were $$$, these Speedbor ones go up to the magic 1 1/2" ( 38.1mm ) if you plan on some smeggycups. The 1 1/4" ( 35mm) should give you enough of a decent cavity to sit over.

 

 

 

For adding to the Wikiphonia entries, do I carefully go ahead or should I contact Faust first? Wanted to add those MCS orthos I got, with pics. About time that got done doubtful anyone will run across any more pairs again. Be nice if they did though. Spread the wealth or lack thereof due to here.

 

That book you linked is interesting stuff thanks for that.

 

DSCF5113.JPGDSCF5120.JPG

DSCF5117.JPGDSCF5121.JPG



 


Edited by nick n - 10/27/11 at 9:22pm
post #18205 of 23459
Thread Starter 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post


Pfft, might as well forgo the voice coil and just do an ortho with vapor deposited silver traces with amorphous microstructure. Next step beyond that would probably be some mixture of carbon nanotubes to achieve semiconductivity at room temperature.

 

I'd already thought of using conductive plastic for parts of the diaphragm. Pfft nyeh. But I like the nanotubes idea. Could they handle the mighty onslaught of Skylab's SX-1980? 

As long as we're ostensibly discussing engineering, here's an interesting min-max problem. Silver conducts better than aluminum and so does copper, but both are more dense. Where's the sweet spot, the point at which you can deliver the highest current with the least amount of mass on the diaphragm? Does it fall on aluminum or could you actually get away with a thin-thin layer of silver vapor rapidly cooled?


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nevod View Post

TDS stands for "Dynamic Stereophonic Telephones". "Head Telephone" is same as headphone, just a different term. So it's merely a dynamic stereophonic headphone.

Thank you for answering that. Do you happen to know anything about the companies that made the various brands of Soviet headphones: Eko, Amfiton, Elektronika, etc.?
 

 


Edited by wualta - 10/27/11 at 9:19pm
post #18206 of 23459
Thread Starter 

And a decent old T20v2 just went for very close to my target price for that model: $46 plus reasonable shipping. All is not lost.

post #18207 of 23459
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhythmdevils View Post

Bastards.  We need to occupy D&M Holdings. 

 

So I think Fostex was onto something putting thin porous paper (ish) stuff behind their more recent orthos including the T20v2 and T50rp.  I've been playing with coffee filters and they are my new favorite damping material.  I'm going to be getting a bunch of different porous papers to try if I can source that somewhere.  I'm thinking an online art store or something.  But coffee filters do a much better job than the tapes IME.  They bring out more treble while bringing out less upper midrange peaks.  And IME they do not constrict the soundstage any more than a thin piece of felt would when placed on the back of the driver.  I've been using the coffee filter instead of the first layer of felt in the typical damping scheme, so driver-paper-foam-felt-cups.  They work so well at bringing out treble that they can actually get my YH3 to have elevated treble without much of an elevated midrange.  Which is a first for me.  I actually get some sibilance unless I use a donut instead of a disc, so I'm going to try to find some slightly more porous paper. 

 

I found some silk coffee filters online which must be from the 1800's or early 1900's but they are way too porous even when I use like 6 layers.  They have a cool old box though. 

Team "Paper Dampers" rocks.beerchug.gif

 

Try tensioning (by placing foam on the back or gluing the edges) the thinner porous paper to get better damping.

 


 

 

post #18208 of 23459

cool.gif

 

Brilliant paper damping minds think alike.  I agree, the paper needs to be pressed firmly against the driver otherwise sound gets out the sides, I think the paper needs to be right up against the hole so all of the sound waves from each hole have to move through the paper.  I tried using pieces of double sided tape, but that doesn't hold it firmly enough, probably because I didn't use enough pieces.  I've got some rubber cement coming in the mail, I'm going to try putting little dabs of that all over the magnet between the holes (carefully redface.gif) and see how that works for my open back frankenphone world war II torture device. 

 

I couldn't find the non-woven paper you mentioned anywhere.  Only thing I can think of is to call an online art store and ask them to go through their fancy paper stacks and tell me what happens when they blow through each one. 

post #18209 of 23459

Right, so I have a pair of Realistic Pro 30's, and lately the right channels been going on and off whenever I move around. Based on my experience, this happens often when the contacts are loose and/or rusty so I open them up, they look fine save for the rust which I polish off. Slap the cups back on, and it's still there. Moving the cable and turning the plug themselves seem to cause the buzzing/dead right channel too. Are there any other things I could do to remedy this?

post #18210 of 23459
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhythmdevils View Post


 

I couldn't find the non-woven paper you mentioned anywhere.

I don't know if it actually is 'non woven' paper. I mentioned the term because that's what they are labelled as in our grocery bills, non woven paper bag x1 : free .:)

 

Its basically porous paper & the blow test indeed works very well for determining density.


 

 

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