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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 1014

post #15196 of 19957
8/15/10 at 1:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post

 

Overall, I like them. Not quite so much that I'd abandon my other cans, but it's still pretty nice. The inability to handle complex passages is a downer though. Any suggested mods?


If it's anything like the T50RP, there are a couple other things you can do.  Today I just popped mine open to take a look inside.  I laid a few strips of blu-tack against the bottom of the cup (but NOT covering the vent) to kill that resonance.  Then, I also filled in a few of the gaps on the baffle with blu-tack as well, to add some weight to the baffle.  Finally, I put very thin bits where the screws went through to pad the contact between the cup and baffle.  It hardly changed the sound at all, but it tightened up the bass quite a bit, and helped hold the sound together.  With a package of no-name blu-tack costing a whopping $.88, it was probably the cheapest and most effective mod I've tried.

 

Might be worth a shot before you dive into something more serious.

 

If my description doesn't make sense, I could pop a cup open and take a picture of it.

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Gear mentioned in this thread:

Yamaha Stereo Headphones
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Fostex T50RP Closed Ear Stereo Headphones
post #15197 of 19957
8/15/10 at 2:29pm
Thread Starter 

Remember, he's got the T40v1 with the 45mm round driver and the funny damping layer that's only glued in the center and those funky foam rings on the baffle, plus the true circumaural earpads.

 

We don't have a lot of elaborate mods for the T40v1 because they're fairly uncommon. Suggestions beyond the simple mods you can find using the special Ludo search engine (http://headfi.qix.it/) are: open one or both of the louvered vents on the back of the cup and damp it/them with a thin layer of felt. Line the cup with same. Mass-damp the cups with blu-tack. Clean the jack on the left cup where the cable attaches. Stuff like that.

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post #15198 of 19957
8/15/10 at 3:57pm

The T40 is closed vs the T50 being open isn't it?

 

I might try some blu-tack or felt. A pic would be helpful and appreciated. I'm not sure if that flabbiness I'm hearing is due to resonance or simply the driver being unable to handle the signal. I suppose it's also possible that something needs repair.

 

Thanks for that link wualta. I'll have to dig through a bit and see what I can come up with. I've never really tried much modding before.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Br777 View Post

Armaegis

 Any suggested mods?


oh... a few....


Haha, well I'm not sure I'm ready to try and make my own thunderpants just yet...

 

Is there much difference between the drivers of the T40 vs the T50?


Edited by Armaegis - 8/15/10 at 3:59pm
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post #15199 of 19957
8/15/10 at 8:53pm
Thread Starter 

There's a very simple mod for the T40v1 designed to get you started and get your confidence up. The search engine should point you to posts 337 and 339.

 

I'm not sure what the congestion problem is either. Deep bass isn't the headphone's strong point anyway. I think you can get a little more bass by opening up the louvers (with a drill or a Dremel with a cutoff wheel), which, as you guessed, will make the enclosure more like the T50RP's or the T20v2's. The T40v1's reason for being was to be the first closed and non-vented ortho on the market,  to avoid leakage when vocalists work the mic close, for example, or for drummers.

 

Yes, the drivers are very different. The T40v1 has the classic simple disc-magnet sandwich construction with a tensioned (and removable) spiral-coil diaphragm in the middle. It's the size of the driver in the Yamaha HP/YH-2, HP/YH-3 and HP-50. The T40v2 and the T50RP, on the other hand, have the new little computer-optimized square driver with NdFeB bar magnets held in a kind of magnetic cage and a densely-written copper-conductor diaphragm.


Edited by wualta - 8/17/10 at 7:26pm
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post #15200 of 19957
8/15/10 at 9:05pm

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post

The T40 is closed vs the T50 being open isn't it?

 

I might try some blu-tack or felt. A pic would be helpful and appreciated. I'm not sure if that flabbiness I'm hearing is due to resonance or simply the driver being unable to handle the signal. I suppose it's also possible that something needs repair.

 

Thanks for that link wualta. I'll have to dig through a bit and see what I can come up with. I've never really tried much modding before.
 


Haha, well I'm not sure I'm ready to try and make my own thunderpants just yet...

 

Is there much difference between the drivers of the T40 vs the T50?

 


We should make an ortho-modding date next time I'm in Winnipeg.  I want to get my Yammy HP-3s sounding better too.  I'm thinking of mounting the drivers in some different cups for greater comfort.

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post #15201 of 19957
8/15/10 at 9:14pm

Well it turns out the congestion was due to insufficient power and/or bad pairing with my amp. I was using a Bottlehead Crack amp and things just didn't sound right in the complex passages. Switching to my G&W T2.6f worked much better.

 

I find the bass to be sufficient on the T40v1. Sound overall feels similar to my K240 Sextetts.

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post #15202 of 19957
8/16/10 at 12:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick View Post

Just the fact that I've never had an ortho that wasn't a circular trace/diaphragm.


I suppose you do know this, but still, for everyone who may not know that:

 

Take a look at how the magnetic field flows. It flows parallel to membrane plane, perpendicular to voice coil trace, and consequently, by Fleming's left hand rule, a force orthogonal to membrane plane acts on the voice coil and hence, on the diaphragm.

 

Yamahas you've seen, are orthos. These are a variation of an isodynamic design, bent into circle. The round magnet in Yamas can be replaced by a set of concentric ring-shaped magnets, with magnetic field flowing from center to edges (or vice versa, it doesn't matter.) So the traces have to form a spiral to be perpendicular to magnetic field.

 

Fostexes, and most others, use the original Wharfedale's isodynamic design (with variations of course), with parallel bar-shaped magnets. The magnetic field flows from top-to-bottom, or left-to-right (again, doesn't matter), so the traces are straight. That's not a complete description, but I think it's okay.

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post #15203 of 19957
8/16/10 at 5:02am
Thread Starter 


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Armaegis View Post

Well it turns out the congestion was due to insufficient power and/or bad pairing with my amp.

I find the bass to be sufficient on the T40v1. Sound overall feels similar to my K240 Sextetts.

Glad to hear you found the problem. Bass takes the most power, whether we're talking speakers or headphones.

 

And yes, I agree, the T40v1 has something faintly AKG about it. Even moreso after the simple mod.


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nevod View Post

Fostexes, and most others, use the original Wharfedale's isodynamic design (with variations of course), with parallel bar-shaped magnets. The magnetic field flows from top-to-bottom, or left-to-right (again, doesn't matter), so the traces are straight. That's not a complete description, but I think it's okay.

Some Fostexen use the bar magnets, but the second-tier ones, like the old T20 and T40, use circular magnets, no pole pieces, and circular voicecoil traces. But you're right, the ones with bar magnets have traces with straight lines. You can see this in the Audeze too.


Edited by wualta - 8/17/10 at 7:27pm
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post #15204 of 19957
8/17/10 at 3:45pm

Hey, I just spotted these on Newegg.com, and found them on Buy.com for even cheaper: http://www.buy.com/prod/subjekt-xi-dj-headphones-with-super-sized-memory-foam-cushions-for/q/loc/101/215523161.html

 

My thought was to use them as fosterphones, as they don't look too bad, and the pads seem quite attractive. I haven't bought a pair yet, and I'm not sure that I will, as money is quite tight for me, atm.

 

You may resume your regularly scheduled -- and super-informative -- discussion

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post #15205 of 19957
8/17/10 at 6:12pm

I'm thinking I might try out my awful-sounding Vic Firth isolation headphones (surprise - a company famous for making hickory drumsticks fails at making good sounding headphones!) as fosters for my Yamaha HP-3 drivers, just for the heck of it.  I'll probably get to it next month.  I'm not sure if isolation cups have been used for fostering these before - can anyone report their experiences?  I expect they'd offer better damping than all the felt I can cram into the HP-3 cup.

 

VicFirthSIH1StereoIsolationDrummersHeadphones.jpg

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post #15206 of 19957
8/18/10 at 1:10pm

Yes, a sealed enclosure would definitely be damped well. You can look for comments on the Fostex T40 for clues on how you'll have to treat it.

 

Hint: those "isolation cups" might get a bit less isolating in the near future.

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post #15207 of 19957
8/18/10 at 1:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sambones View Post

Yes, a sealed enclosure would definitely be damped well. You can look for comments on the Fostex T40 for clues on how you'll have to treat it.

 

Hint: those "isolation cups" might get a bit less isolating in the near future.


Are you threatening to "vent" here?  

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post #15208 of 19957
8/18/10 at 3:30pm
Thread Starter 

The only thing you have to be careful about with a truly airtight enclosure is loss of bass as the trapped air in the enclosure acts like a very tight spring (much in the manner of a sealed-box, aka acoustic suspension, speaker box), against the diaphragm, nearly locking it in place and allowing only the tiniest movement, thereby wiping out all bass. So do what Smeggy does: add a tiny hole. It's not big enough to let a bass wave out in one piece, so it's bass-safe. You have to keep pressure from building up in the enclosure. Oh, and you have to kill all reflections. Other than that, piece o' cake.

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post #15209 of 19957
8/18/10 at 4:24pm

scored myself a Wharfie ID2 on the cheap ..thanks to the resident ortho ninja master. :)

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post #15210 of 19957
8/18/10 at 4:38pm

just in time for haloween Leah ..dB

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Gear mentioned in this thread:

Yamaha Stereo Headphones
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Fostex T50RP Closed Ear Stereo Headphones
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