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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 97

post #1441 of 19957
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post
Sounds like it desperately needed damping/dotting.
Yep, but before I ever got to it, WertherDVX gave me an offer I couldn't refuse. I regret not grabbing another pair when I once had the chance.

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post #1442 of 19957
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post
Surface area is important, but excursion is too, and you can trade one for the other in a planar, especially a push-pull planar like the Orthos. By contrast, a Magneplanar, being single-ended, has to have surface area. Too much excursion and it leaves the more-or-less linear part of the magnetic field and you get a blatty kind of distortion.
That's exactly my point. With all things being equal the larger surface area wins out but things are rarely that simple.
post #1443 of 19957
Thread Starter 

YH-1000 info from Poland!

One of our brothers on pl.rec.audio, Tomek Waszkiewicz, has sent me some excellent photos of the YH-1000 and some very interesting comments. With his permission, I'll post them here. I've slightly normalized his spelling and grammar and made some minor edits to make a swifter read.

"I bought a few weeks ago a yamaha YH-1000. I bought them from a guy that has a studio in USA. I payed $210-- yes I know...a lot of money, but they look almost like new. It's a long story how I found it-- it took me a year to find a contact. I was looking for this headphone almost everywhere-- Japan, China, Russia, Poland, Germany, France, England and in many other places. Finally I found it in USA like I wrote before. ...

Inside, the earcup has three types of damping. Two of them are made of rock wool-- it's much better than felt-- I have already check[ed] it on my YH-100 that was my first ortho. The rock wool replaced the felt that I had used before.

About the sound of YH-1000...

Well I have a Sansui SS-100 and the YH-1000 bit [the] YH-100 and SS-100 in every aspect... I am not going to change the damping in it; right from the box
it sound[ed] PERFECT. ...

First time in my life when I plug it to my friend's headphone amp I felt what the music really is...so clear, so accurate. Guys, check this: my friend who has a Omega 2 Stax was ready to give those for my Yamaha YH-1000(!!!!!!!)
of course I said "NO"

I really don't understand why Yamaha ended this line of headphones.

Take care you guys!

Tom"

I'm assuming that when he says "rock wool" he means what we would call fiberglass, or something like it, rather than the slag/basalt stuff used to fill walls. Now for some photos:



PHOTOS BY TOMEK WASKIEWICZ


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post #1444 of 19957
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post
That's exactly my point. With all things being equal the larger surface area wins out but things are rarely that simple.
Which was exactly my point, as the sound of the HP-50, with a diaphragm no bigger than the HP-2's, demonstrates.
post #1445 of 19957
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post
Which was exactly my point, as the sound of the HP-50, with a diaphragm no bigger than the HP-2's, demonstrates.
A push pull setup will always be more powerful and the construction of the driver shell can make or break an already good driver.
post #1446 of 19957
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post
I'm assuming that when he says "rock wool" he means what we would call fiberglass, or something like it, rather than the slag/basalt stuff used to fill walls.
Dunno - when i described the fostex/stax/audiotechnica mottled yellow/white damping pads to my chemist friend - their softness, non-itchyness, and crushability, he suggested that they're possibly a high grade of mineral wool. I'm guessing mostly calcium and magnesium, but it's not like i actually know anything.
post #1447 of 19957
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericj View Post
Dunno - when i described the fostex/stax/audiotechnica mottled yellow/white damping pads to my chemist friend - their softness, non-itchyness, and crushability, he suggested that they're possibly a high grade of mineral wool. I'm guessing mostly calcium and magnesium, but it's not like i actually know anything.
Good point. I don't really know what those yella biskits are made of-- I figured next time I thought of it, I'd flic a BIC at one and observe-- so you're right, they could be near-fiberglass, but how did it come to be yellow? It could be a synthetic-fiber/mineral-wool hybrid. Would your chemist friend be willing to do some quick testing?
post #1448 of 19957
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericj
I don't quite get what that 2nd disc of felt was for, but in this latest experiment, in my yh-1, the leathery non-chamois pretends to be both the 2nd disc of felt and the construction paper.
The second disc of felt was solely to even out the pressure applied by the very non-flat surface of the earcup. A better solution would be some big-cell opencell foam, something like fishfoam. An even better solution would, of course, be a better earcup design.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ericj
The earcup is then also lined with cheap felt 'cause i typically do that.
Which I've long thought was an excellent idea. I need to go back and add it to the earlier posts.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ericj
Perhaps i should try lining the yh-1 cup with superfelt?
I know I'd try it.
post #1449 of 19957

Hello everyone

Hello wualta
some how I'm able to start posting
and I'm very happy about that. In near future I'll post a lot of pictures of my ortho collection, because most of them (as a models)allready exist, I will post them from in side, with the mods that I made in them.

ps. rockwool is the same material as the mineral wool, both of them are made of rocks, fiber glass is made of quartz, thats the main diffrient. Mineral wool usually is yelow, fiber glass white.

Take care
post #1450 of 19957
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomek.W. View Post
Hello wualta
some how I'm able to start posting
and I'm very happy about that. In near future I'll post a lot of pictures of my ortho collection, because most of them (as a models)allready exist, I will post them from in side, with the mods that I made in them.

ps. rockwool is the same material as the mineral wool, both of them are made of rocks, fiber glass is made of quartz, thats the main diffrient. Mineral wool usually is yelow, fiber glass white.

Take care
condensed version for our little group:

-ortho collection pics coming!
-internal pics of modifications

very interesting news indeed, Tomek. Welcome to head-fi!
post #1451 of 19957
Thread Starter 
Aha! Success! Welcome to Tomek, who of course was the one who took the photos of the YH-1000.

Mineral wool and fiberglass could both fairly be called silicon wool. The two probably have different acoustic properties-- I wonder what they are.

Looking forward to further photos and impressions of the Yamahas and the Russian TDS-16, which apparently came in two flavors, each made in a different city.
post #1452 of 19957
The difference with the damping wool we've seen could purely be the smallness of the filaments vs. what gets used for household insulation.

Oh, it turns out that a good friend of mine has a large quantity of ceramic wool. The stuff that insulates the more space-age of kilns. Maybe i can persuede him to give me an ounce or two.

But nevermind that. I'm here to say that i have made a small improvement to the existing T20v2 and T40 mods.

Simply, in *both cases one should use eggcrate foam, and cut it so that you have five points of foam - one at each corner and one in the middle.

Of course, you have to cut a notch out of the base of one of the points on one of the blocks to make room for the cable jack in the left earcup.

This nicely fills the gaps in the corners of the earcup and puts enough pressure on the damping materials.

I haven't tried lining the T20v2 earcup with superfelt yet. Will give it a shot some day soon.
post #1453 of 19957
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericj
I'm here to say that i have made a small improvement to the existing T20v2 and T40 mods...
Good idea-- not only does this do the job, it makes it easier to mod-- no need to line up the chunk of foam with the driver while you screw the cup back together. Just drop it in and close it up.


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post #1454 of 19957
Yeah. I also never liked the fit of the original foam puck, and sometimes i get the impression that for some drivers, filling earcup volume with foam can be helpful.
post #1455 of 19957
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