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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 944

post #14146 of 18847

*updated !

 

My rank for all ortho's that available on indonesia:
1. HE-5 LE balanced
2. Wharfedale ID1/Sansui SS100/Yamaha HP1000
3. Hifiman HE5
4. Fostex T10/Yamaha YHD3/Yamaha YHD-2/Yamaha YHE-50A
5. Yamaha YH100/Fostex T20v2/Fostex T20RP MK-II
6. Yamaha HP1/YH1
7. Yamaha YH-2
8. Realistic Pro30
9. Yamaha HP3/Yamaha YH3/Yamaha HP50A
10. Eagle H4300
11. ATH1
12. Sansui SS L-55
13. ATH-2/VectorScan VSH5

available ortho branded cans on indonesia:

  • Audeze LCD-2
  • Hifiman HE5 LE
  • Hifiman HE5
  • Sansui SS100
  • Fostex T10
  • Fostex T20RP a.k.a T20v2
  • Fostex T20RP MK-II
  • Yamaha YHD3
  • Yamaha YHE50A
  • Yamaha YH100
  • Yamaha YH1000
  • Yamaha HP1000
  • Yamaha HP1
  • Yamaha YH1
  • Yamaha YH2
  • Yamaha HP3 & YH3
  • Yamaha HP50A
  • ATH 1
  • ATH 2 & VectorScan VSH5
  • Sansui SS L-55
  • Realistic Pro30
  • Eagle H4300


mini Impression of mine...

HP1000 - stock form
Everything sound just right, either amped or direct from my ipod...
It's has super huge & rich body, the deep bass are clean (thick vibrating feeling allover my spine), good warm midrange on the face and even if HP1k got no sparkling high like HE5 but it's not a roll-off treble though, and not dark at all...now i believe that YHD3 are 95% of HP1k, but YHD3 feel more airy/open due to the fully open cup...
I highly recommend this japan King Yammy for vocal lover, vocal are warm, lusty but without any sibilance or peak...I prefer this cans over HE5 because it's very smooth, warm+thick body and without any peak detected, on the other hand HE5 known with several peak on high & midrange...even it's a lil' bassy for me (in positive term) it's feel just right...flat enough for me, not too bright or dark...i think HP1k are same level or even more superior to any Lambda series, incl. SR404 LE+KGSS...well, i know it would be more fair to test A/Bing before claim those statement, but to be honest this cans able to make me shaking from the first time listening to it...
...taken from e'mail conversation with Kabeer...

SS100 - stock form
i love it at the first sight...lol
not as troublesome as ID1 to drive thought, even more open...the sounds just bright enough for me, and airy...i would never said this cans a bassy light, it has huge thick rich body...there's a lil peaks on the high freq range, but still acceptable...the headstage are awesome...aggresive as Fostex ussually do, that's why i love it...

ID1 - stock form
even still under amp, i try to describe as fair as possible...
sparkling high, huge thick body...not as airy as SS100 but not warm or dark to me...headstage a lil 3D, too bad there's still distort on the low notes when paired with SSMH...

T10 - modded
small in size but bigger sounding version of my T20v2, very solid headstage, nice midrange and aggresive as SS100, neutral just like ID1, not to open or airy, great treble but not too sparkling as ID1 or bright as SS100...the bass are deep, but not bass heavy...

will add more impression later...


Edited by iQEM - 6/12/10 at 11:34pm

Gear mentioned in this thread:

Yamaha Stereo Headphones
Fostex T50RP Closed Ear Stereo Headphones
post #14147 of 18847
Nice to see the old woofey still hanging with the top dogs, 38 years old and still kicking ass

I'll finally get to hear the T10 soon as well. Not sure I'll ever encounter the SS100. Seems extra rare.
post #14148 of 18847
Nice impressoins iQem.

The fact the bass is whimpering with your SSMH + ID1 is for sure that you arent poweing it enough. But you should have got a v.good idea of what it sounds like.

Quote:
Originally Posted by smeggy View Post
I'll finally get to hear the T10 soon as well. Not sure I'll ever encounter the SS100. Seems extra rare.
I think it's more like the SS100 have been avoiding an encounter with you
post #14149 of 18847
Yay impression about my T10, i think that was the most ready-to-use cans in that moment.
post #14150 of 18847
It's amazing how the sound of ortho drivers can change with cup size. It's so easy to try with an east german RFT HOK80v2. I have attached the driver to the baffle together with the annoying ring dingus. It becomes a small chamber for the driver so that one can try the sound without putting the cups on. Just putting my hand over the back opening of the baffle transforms the sound, like it's some kind of dough that can be shaped with the hands. Close it completely, and all bass dies... move the hands in different shapes and the sound just smoothly changes into a new shape... weird experience...

Got the HOK all together now. Sounds fine. Bass is laid back and doesnt have that perfect control, but otherwise it's surprisingly good. I put the drivers at an angle this time. This headset is perfect for doing that. It's surprising what they achieved back then in eastern europe.
post #14151 of 18847
Thanks for correcting my understanding wualta, I really appreciate it. I'm taking notes now! Could you recommended any books on this subject? It would be a nice summer reading.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post
Awhile back, I facetiously suggested using flexible tubing to lead the backwave down from your ears to your shoes and releasing it there. Call it the Bass Drain.
Hey, that could become a trend setting fashion statement. You just never know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DefectiveAudioComponent View Post
Just putting my hand over the back opening of the baffle transforms the sound, like it's some kind of dough that can be shaped with the hands. Close it completely, and all bass dies... move the hands in different shapes and the sound just smoothly changes into a new shape... weird experience...
I can relate that with the HE-5. Placing my hands over the cups sucks away the bass completely, make an gap between my fingers brings it back. In fact, I found that I enjoy the sound best with my hand forming a dome over the cups, with gaps between my fingers. Does away with some feeling of "spaciness", but none the less, its the sound I like better.
post #14152 of 18847
Go to wikipedia for the education. Other than that, find some popular mechanics books or magazines. Not necessarily the "Popular Mechanics" brand, but physics related experiments and information geared towards the average-but-curious Joe
post #14153 of 18847
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefectiveAudioComponent
Just putting my hand over the back opening of the baffle transforms the sound, like it's some kind of dough that can be shaped with the hands. Close it completely, and all bass dies... move the hands in different shapes and the sound just smoothly changes into a new shape...
Quote:
Originally Posted by ujamerstand
I can relate that with the HE-5. Placing my hands over the cups sucks away the bass completely, make a gap between my fingers brings it back. In fact, I found that I enjoy the sound best with my hand forming a dome over the cups, with gaps between my fingers. Does away with some feeling of "spaciness", but none the less, its the sound I like better.
You two have discovered my Open Palm Test for open-back headphones. What happens is your hand reflects lots of treble back into the phone and on into your ear. As it takes this reflex [that word again!] path, the soundwaves interfere with themselves, giving that odd, whooshy sound caused by comb filtering (ie, a comb-shaped frequency response curve is the result of this self-interference). Bass doesn't reflect so much because your hand is small compared to a bass wavelength-- the wave just bends around your hand and keeps going.

Real-World Conclusion: Reflections must be accounted for and controlled; if they are, you get handy little gimmes like the reflex dot. (..Do I hear booing?) If they aren't, you get excess treble, "echoey" (= combfiltery) sound, and yes, a diminution of the outside-the-skull imaging effect.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ujamerstand
I'm taking notes now! Could you recommended any books on this subject? It would be a nice summer reading.
Skim any book written for recording engineers. They have to know a little bit about everything, and the books are excellent overviews of all the basic principles discussed here. From there you can move on to more specialized texts, but I'll warn you, there's not going to be much about headphone design-- you'll have to derive the existence of headphones from first principles. Right now I'm plowing through Recording Engineer's Handbook by Owsinski (ow!), which seems good so far. Anything by John Eargle is worthwhile.

You could also see if any local colleges are teaching audio production showing the use of headphones in recording and, if they're brave, mixing (hint: get them to tell you exactly why headphones have historically been avoided for mixing). If you lived in St. Louis, you could take a class from my old radio colleague Barry Hufker.
post #14154 of 18847

T50RP pad options

Has anyone tried other pads than the Stax on the T50RP? I'm thinking of the GMP 8.35 D Monitor, for instance, if they fit. Suggestions would be appreciated.
post #14155 of 18847
to BMF or Smeggy:
do you guys have any spare (newer) pads for T20RP MK-II or T50RPv1 ?
the pads (from MK-IIv.1) already lost some of the vinyls part cos of worn out...
if you do then please PM me for the asking price, incl. shipping to indonesia...

thx...

note:
my rank updated...
post #14156 of 18847
Quote:
Originally Posted by iQEM View Post
note:
my rank updated...
The Yamaha YP-1k does it again
post #14157 of 18847
I was messing around and figured out t20 screws can go through the black metal mesh.

I'm borrowing the metal cutters again tomorrow and I plan on using a layer of foam on the back of the magnet and screwing the mesh down on top of it. Since this will create a baffle inside the cup baffle, will the pos cup baffle be negated(like it isn't there at all)?
post #14158 of 18847
Quote:
Originally Posted by smeggy View Post
I'll finally get to hear the T10 soon as well.
Yes, yes you will. I will get to hear the TPs soon as well!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Questa View Post
Yay impression about my T10, i think that was the most ready-to-use cans in that moment.
Glad to hear you still like them I'd I'm glad to see they hang with the big boys.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Navermyr View Post
Has anyone tried other pads than the Stax on the T50RP? I'm thinking of the GMP 8.35 D Monitor, for instance, if they fit. Suggestions would be appreciated.
Haven't tried GMP pads, but the Stax pads fit on the MB Quart QP805 so they should work. I've used J$ Denon pads on T20v1s.


Quote:
Originally Posted by iQEM View Post
to BMF or Smeggy:
do you guys have any spare (newer) pads for T20RP MK-II or T50RPv1 ?
the pads (from MK-IIv.1) already lost some of the vinyls part cos of worn out...
if you do then please PM me for the asking price, incl. shipping to indonesia...

thx...

note:
my rank updated...
You can turn the stock T20v1/T20v2 pads inside out and they work pretty good. That was an idea from ourfpshero and I've done it with my T20v1 with great results.

Otherwise, no, I don't have any spare pads. If Sachu starts a group buy for the Indian O2 pads, then that would be the replacement pad I would pursue.
post #14159 of 18847
There are some inexpensive 100mm ear pads on e-Bay, from Hong Kong, which are fairly close to the stock T20v2 pads. The ID is a bit bigger. Initially I needed to put some foam from the front of some DT990s under them which slightly raised them and made a better seal, but once worn in that's not needed. They trade a little less low end for a little more soundstage. They don't flake like the originals.
post #14160 of 18847
I hated those ebay pads on my T20v2. They make the mids sound un-ortho like & kill the bass.
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Gear mentioned in this thread:

Yamaha Stereo Headphones
Fostex T50RP Closed Ear Stereo Headphones
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