Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 926

Wow, nice work getting the top magnet bit to come off without damaging the magnets or yourself! It seems hard to make a baffle for the driver in this configuration, though. But if it's at all possible, smeggy's the man to do it.

How does it sound with only one magnet on? Better? Worse?
(could you pick up your ruler and measure those magnets? how thick, wide, long are they?)

Thanks guys!
Well, the when you remove the driver pod, the baffle side of it is just a square, so you would then need a square hole in a baffle, or just a circular hole with a diameter of the square's size.

I didnt try it like that acutally I didnt see a point, since it wasnt the baffle side I was removing, therefore I couldnt picture any real benefits it would bring to the sound.
Hmm I just closed up the driver, and its not the most friendly to take apart..they seemed to just be v.simple neodynmium bar magnets stuck on the metal plate.

Maybe if im crazy enough to try again

cutting away the excess baffle makes them a lot easier to mount and seal properly. The driver capsule has a front rim/lip thing and makes it awkward to attach, especially with round baffle holes. This is the strongest and easiest way to mount them solidly. The capsule is held in place by 3 screws, two clips and sealed with a gasket to the baffle. With a bandsaw and sander it takes about two minutes to hack them down to size

The solder pads are just where the wires attach to the mylar and they do pull clean off the sheet if not careful. It's just a blob of solder of the copper trace. I know this.. don't ask how

Yeah, the magnets are really strong, I have a couple of trashed drivers at home in bits I never got around to posting internal pics though.

wow!!!..that is one gorgeous looking driver.. Funny I was reading up on this last night and I wake up to see this today. Nice going kabs!


The diaphragm is supposed to be replaceable so I would think it isn't too difficult to open it up. I am still finding it difficult to picture your description of the driver and the baffle cutout..Don't see how they are different.

I know this firsthand as well, happened to my T40 and my T50RP and I had to resolder.

Heh, yeah, that'd probably happen to me as well if I tried. It's going to be a major hassle jamming the top magnet back in place and trying to screw everything back in. Unless Kabeer has already done it, in which kudos to him again.

Pyriel, that sounds like an interesting mod. The downside to that kind of drive principle in speakers was that you got tons of distortion on large excursions, but maybe that wont be a problem with something on the scale of headphone drivers.

And, with the Fostex Tx0RP series, are there any large differences between the models, or would a T20RP (v3) have just as much bass as a T50RP with the T50's earpads?

Without the original baffle the driver front has a square mount like so...




makes it a pain to fit to a baffle, this one I pooled with epoxy and even then, with a round hole big enough to fit the square peg into, there'd a gap at the sides that needs filling

Smeggy: when you were cutting and sanding down the driver capsule, do you take out the actual driver itself?

thanks!

Smeggy..curiosu, why does the front of the baffle have a raised lip on only half the side?

Actually, I've seen that feature in many of smeggy's wooden baffles. Are they some kind of support to angle the driver to the ears?

yeah, the lip was to raise the pads at the back.

No I don't remove the driver for cutting, I just stuff those suckers right into the bandsaw. They have covers on the front and back so nothing gets in them and I just tape over them with some masking tape.

Well, I've disassembled the HP-1s. It was a lot less scary than I thought. (As compared to the time I've disassembled my laptop to replace the fan; now THAT was a scary experience.) Anyways, I've took out the drivers, and tried listening to them plain, and I've noticed a few things: a) The bass goes away when the space between the ear and the driver is not enclosed. b) taping up the holes on the back of the driver with masking tape changes the tone. c) the driver sounds quite nice just by themselves. Honestly, I have no idea what kind of sound I am looking for. After 3 headphones I still don't understand good sound. Thus, this is going to be the self-discovery-type-of-thing for me. Wish me luck!




Thats good to know, thanks!

Looks like you have the anisotropic model?
Is it an uneven looking magnet surface, or like a mottled looking metal?

If you're talking about the metal keeper that sandwiches the magnets, they have a smooth surface, with a slight red and green shine in a molted pattern. I've read that anisotropic models have a keeper plates on the magnets, so this one may be one of the updated versions of HP-1. There was no original manual with this set of headphones however, so I'm not certain about it.