Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 925

extreme ortho-ninja modding !!

O_O

according to lecky, he removed such a peak by romoving the stock sponge damping in it (if you still have it in there)

the magnets don't conduct so won't zap you. The center electrode might conduct (if the t20 has one, so you can just coverthat with something ( like blutak )

no..it dont have centre electrode like Yammy does, Kabeer...


note:
have you read e'mail from me yet ?

T20v2 progressive donut mod

After couple of months of tweaking I have finally reached to a point with my T20v2 where I feel satisfied with how the sound. I have managed to get rid of the mid bass hump & at the same time also retained pretty good deep bass & a good balance overall.

I am posting the pics as promised :

1. T20v2 recabled with Belden miniquad cable :


opened the cup :


inverted the 2 layers of felt outside the baffle, the dense black felt donut has replaced the stock white dampening :


the foam, less dense but thicker blue felt & black felt :


another view :


BTW, i am looking for a more elegant solution for the cable entry into cups, any ideas ?

very informative picts, gurubhai...

for me, my damping scheme right now are the most i prefer beside all the damping scheme that i ever tried before...

i use white oz felt after the white damping filter (stock), then fake chamois of Faust2D, a disc of rockwool, stock foam, then put a disc of black thin felt on the open vented...and i line+cover all the plastic area inside the cup with nippon tapes, not dynamat...and yet still using stock cable... LOL
it sound very good for my ears though, as seen on this pict...


the result before are:



<-- first time mod T20v2

as you can see, there alot of change on the upper/high freq, and lot of peak had settle down but still had roll off on 16kHz...but everything became more flatter & neutral, not dark or bright...with sparkling highs, intimate midrange (without sibilance or harshness like before) & great deep bass...
i think the key are rockwool & fake chamouis, so thank's to Faust2D...

Hi Smeggy,

Can you explain why you go through the effort of cutting down the baffle?? When you can simply unscrew and pull out the driver capsule :S ready to stick in your creations?

And what solder pads are you reffering to? The cable comes in and solders directly onto what seems to be the Mylar. Which bit exactly is the gentle bit to be careful of?

Also why has no one ever opened the T50RP driver up before to take a nice photo of the actual diaphragm? I am tempted but wondering if there is a good reason not to open it (like in the SS-100 case).

THanks!

@ IQEM : I settled on this one after around 20 revisions & tried it all including fake chamois.
Unfortunately, IME, the fake chamois kills too much bass so while it initially sounds good due to removal of mid bass hump but later you miss the deep bass.

Ofcourse, the results will vary according to the material used but I am happy with my rather minimalist mod.

actually i spend more than 20 revision..
and here i am back with the fake chamouis again...
i think it didn't absorb too much mid-bass if we put it on the right layer...
seriously, it didn't touch the deep bass even bring more of em' to sound...

well, well, well... the seller relisting that BNIB Yam YH-2 with U$ 200 as an opening price and Buy it now on U$ 225 exclude shipping ?
Where's the winner go, cancelled maybe ?

Fostex T50RP Driver Diaphragm

So Ok impatience got the better of me . And I love doing this stuff.

(The magnets are very powerful, when putting it back together you can feel the magnetic field a fair distance up, unlike the vintage stuff. But I havent experienced the YH-1000 (which has strong magnets) apart, so only Don would know of that).

So here is the Fostex T50RP driver in all it's naked glory since no one has (been foolish enough) to do it yet:





*Whooosh*

Wait a minute, the stock baffle isn't round is it? I was thinking it was somewhat oval shaped, and therefore wouldn't fit the wooden cups.

Yeah its oval. But you can remove the pod and put it on any other baffle without messing with the T50rp's baffle.

Remove three screws on the outer side of the baffle and et-voila. The driver pod comes out. Desolder the wires and you can put it anywhere you want.
Inside any frame, diy, your cat's ears, a casserole, etc...

Great pics Kabeer.

Now that I have a T50RP coming my way, I am pretty interested in these.