Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 918

, nope paid lotsa moola for those sexy cans for the dog the chew ..dB

Opening the HP1000 drivers

Thought I would post pics for anyone who wants to try

Part 1 = opening the drivers and seeing what needs to be done.







Got both in bits



taking a closer peek at the caustic eariebejeebies





next step is to restore continuity - this is not going to be pretty with this much corrosion

..dB

dunk in vinegar for a week

Don I think it's time for a shave

Yeah it's on the wearer side, if yamaha made it so the plastic was on the wearer side then the problem would be fixed.
Also strangely the corrosion is always on the more OUTER holes rather than the more exposed inner ones.

I would have said maybe gunk trapped under the pads. But then one of my yh1k were nearly NOS (even smelt new) and were stored in original box for decades in an attic. The attic can't have been musty or the headphones wouldn't have smelt so fresh. But when you removed them the drivers smelt musty!

The pleather would make good sense except for the fact that of of Kabeers pair was near intact and the driver was still crud. Doesn't negate this theory though as the pleather disintegrated soon after , suggesting it had already passed gas. ( which that unshaved headphone wearing canine does frequently )

Drivers in image restored - NOT PRETTY, had to near paint the stuff on this one but impedance matches at 60R , so lets hope that it still sounds good.

Notice the dull coating on the lower image of the closeup = HP1000 seems to have this film on it which makes it a little stiffer than the YH1000 that I have had in my hands in the past.

on to other things......


made some mini xlr adapters for the woodied wharfies - now need to recable the headphones with the cable i made and we're in business. I have male mini xlr terminated headphone cable, TRS - female mini xlr adapter cable and female mini xlr to speaker plugs.

- i am not sure I would recommend these plugs generally for cables - very small to work with, cable diameter is really limited . Good solid feel once done but a PIA to make. I will probably stop here as I would need to recable all my orthos and this has little appeal.

..dB

wow, very informative don...

plasticizer migration gets my vote. Once it migrates and reacts or off gasses, it's probably producing a formaldihyde that is reacting with the copper.

Hmm this plastic theory miighht hold weight, except, the underside of the YH-1k pads usually tend to hold up pretty well, in fact on the NOS pair I was talking about, the underside PVC was quite hard to remove, one side was still like new and quite thick n rubbery, It took a lot to get it off (so it hadnt dissolved).
But i guess its the only reasonable theory so far.

As for the HP-1000 interesting on the impedance difference, some of that difference might be attributed to the shorted paths now, but I guess its possible that the 85ohm stock quoted figure is now more likely.

Apparently I'm missing a conversation that happened earlier, but does this happen to other orthos? Like my Fostex T20v2's?

thus far it is only the YH/HP1000 ..dB

I'm having a hard time looking for sufficiently wide doubled sided adhesive locally, I'll be needing it to refurbish an incoming HP-1. I'd hate to use spray on adhesive to glue new pads on. What do you guys use when you are fixing the pads?

cut strips of narrower double sided tape..dB

That'd work I guess... I guess the adhesive doesn't have to be in contact with all of the back area of the pad.