Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 901

Encyclophonia!!! Why didn't I think of that when I was naming it

I want thunderpants.

Glad to see you here Sachu.
What about the headphone guys?
Can they expect to be wowed...

I do clear space around me after having a bean and cheese burrito

I second Kabeer's advice: ditch the tape/micropore etc., it's not needed with the hp50 (or 3). Find a few varieties of felt, and some heavy woolen cloth, so that you have different materials of varying densities. Then use the thicker one to fill the cups, as described in the damping howto I posted last year. Then close, give them a listen, and add/remove felt as needed on top of that.

If you get to a point where adding the lightest felt tilts the sound to overdamped (no space between the instruments, congested sound, emphasized treble, etc.), but leaving the phones without still makes them a tiny bit underdamped (darkish sound, bass tends to mask other frequencies, etc.), experiment with shaping the topmost layer, the one right against the driver. Usually making it smaller than the drivers (a disc that can fit between the four posts without touching them) and punching a center hole in it, thus making it donut shaped, is enough. The size of the hole lets you fine tune your damping.

Take your time, and always compare them with another pair of phones, or you'll just be going in circles.

Excellent, thanks for the input everyone!

Have ordered one set of felt, will start with that and see where it gets me.

I'll listen back and forth with the HD650 as they are my perfect phones. And will definitely take my time; I'm in hurry as I have plenty of other phones.

I doubt you're talking about the Mike Oldfield track animus. Indeed...


While we're (the royal "we" man, you know? the editorial?) in a Thundering mood then, I've finalised (I hope) the chassis design for the Thunderdome. I've been keeping this secret for a while. But what the hell. You might remember that Vaughn tried something similar, although not so large back on page 286. His pictures have now expired so I can't repost them though.






Big sound indeed. Normal headphone amps need not apply.

Duggeh, that looks most beastly. Are you intending to crossover any of the drivers or leave them all full range?

..dB

And I thought a YH-100 was heavy. Does the headband incorporate a neck brace?

that would be an awesome headphone to try and headbang with listening to metal...

No crossovers. The housing is big and heavy enough without adding in that sort of complication. To date, I've also found greater coherance and success in running all seven drivers with identical damping configurations. Trying to get the centre driver to "image" while the other six provided low frequency re-enforcement always ended in wobbly failure. A frustrating set of circumstances because the Orthodome images with pinpoint precision but lacks that kick in the bum I have tried and failed to get out of a single SFI driver.

What does make a difference is the way in which they are wired up. Pure series and pure parallel for example, present very different loads to the amp. A conbination wiring configuration has proven best (I test from the speaker terminals of my NAD C352).



If the headband and pads are well thought out. No additional support should be necessary. The pads are very large indeed (in the picture you can see two different thicknesses). The headband though cannot be standard style with 2 entry pins into the midpoint axis on the housing (like the Stax SR-Omega) because 2 of the 6 bolts which hold everything tight would interfere with a recess large enough for such a design (and rotation of the entire housing to put the bolts at 12 and 6 rather than 10 and 2 is out of the question because I need the space at 6 o clock for the cable entry assembly). Instead, a 4 insert design is best. 2 bars run over the top (K701 style) and 2 underneith. The bottom two have the headband pad on them and one manipulates the arcs to fit ones head. The best solution would be to put in an arc like the SR-007 and firmly bolt the upper arcs to the chassis, but that's something to try for any additional revision.



Thanks for those pics. I saved them in case they expire too. I'm sure I have the earlier ones, I just couldn't find them.

I've hand switched (damn sewing machine broken) a few pad designs. The two in that pic are the best two. One blocks the drivers on the rim more, but is comfier. I think that the thinner pads could be just as comfy with a different stuffing (memory foam would work perfectly) though. Sewing the pads was undoubtedly the worst, most boring part of the whole thing.


The prototype suffers from the same problem as the AMT design though. The louder the turn the volume dial, the better and better the music sounds, without seeming to get louder. Then you take them off and realise you were audible 4 streets away. Eek.

Guys I need a bit of help locating earpads. I need an earpad with an approx 50mm diameter hole. Outer diameter can be anything really, 100mm would be ideal.
The pad should seal well.
Something basically like a giant Stax SR-X pad would be great.
Yup you guess it its for a vintage T50 (well NAD to be precise).
If you know anything that fits the bill please do say.


Also Duggeh thats just super mad!!! If you are ever in London I'd love to hear that crazy creation of yours .

A bit off the current discussion, but there are a few Fostex orthos on eBay right now. I just sprung for one as a buy-it-now, but there're two T40v1's and a T20v2 (not MkII). I figured it's pertinent to the topic.

I ran into someone who has a few pairs of Fostex T20v2 that look to be in great condition for 40 edit: 35 each. Anyone interested?