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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 895

post #13411 of 18896
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan View Post
Cool, but too bad it's missing the tab on the one side.
I don't have T20v1 so I can't check it but wikiphonia picture showing normal T20v1, presents the headphones also without the tab on the same side.

Gear mentioned in this thread:

Yamaha Stereo Headphones
Fostex T50RP Closed Ear Stereo Headphones
post #13412 of 18896
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post
Not saying you need to buy 'em, just that the back-electret design has its advantages. If an SR-30 drops into your lap, though, don't toss it aside.
Where does the SR-30 fall in the line up compared to the SR-40 and SR-80?

I'm getting the impression the SR-30 is a better can?

The reason I ask is that I will be receiving an ATH7 which is rumored to be a branded SR-30, but I was planning on what I thought was "upgrading" the drivers from a SR-80.
post #13413 of 18896
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sim1 View Post
I don't have T20v1 so I can't check it but wikiphonia picture showing normal T20v1, presents the headphones also without the tab on the same side.
My pair has both tabs, thanks to the generosity of ourfpshero.
post #13414 of 18896
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan
Where does the SR-30 fall in the line up compared to the SR-40 and SR-80?
Near as I can tell, the SR-30 and the SR-80 arrived together, well after the SR-40, Stax's first tret.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan
I'm getting the impression the SR-30 is a better can?
Certainly better mechanically. The suspiciously-AT-like headset is reasonably rugged and holds everything securely in place. But it's been too long since I heard an SR-40 to say that the SR-30 was a big improvement. All I recall is being completely unimpressed by the 40.

Now-- sticking ATH-7 drivers in an SR-80 enclosure? I wouldn't hope for much, but it's one of those things that has to be tried just to see what happens.
post #13415 of 18896
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post

Now-- sticking ATH-7 drivers in an SR-80 enclosure? I wouldn't hope for much, but it's one of those things that has to be tried just to see what happens.
Plan was to stick SR-80 drivers in the ATH-7 headband... Or SR-30 drivers if the SR-80s are too large.
post #13416 of 18896
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kabeer View Post
Anniverary edition?

Edit: I just saw it (thanks DAC), it looks rather interesting im guessing its just a cosmetic makeover, but its rather cool, never knew it existed.
agreed..so,then no one from here grab that rare T20v1?

Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post
Ne meither, but it's nice to have in our photo collection. As you say, undoubtedly just a cosmetic whoop-de-do.

.
i thought some of you guys notice from the very first it been listing..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sim1 View Post
If you look at the pictures it looks like great an unavailable T20v1 version. One of the cups has hardly readable info "NOT FOR SALE" - it must have been some kind of internal release for business partners or such.
bulls eye! nice find..
i had only notice readable "Anniversary model Fostex" on the emblem but not seing that "not for sale" wrote on the cup..
post #13417 of 18896
is it wise to meter ortho driver impedance?
post #13418 of 18896
Quote:
Originally Posted by Questa View Post
is it wise to meter ortho driver impedance?
You can measure DCR, it's close enough to the impedance on orthos.
post #13419 of 18896
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan View Post
Or SR-30 drivers if the SR-80s are too large.
same driver
post #13420 of 18896
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericj View Post
same driver
And is it the same driver that's already in the ATH7?
post #13421 of 18896
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan View Post
And is it the same driver that's already in the ATH7?
Having had two sets of SR-30 drivers, one set of SR-80 drivers, and seen pictures of the ATH-7 driver, my take is that the difference is in the damping.

The SR-30 has a big fiberglass cookie on the back of the driver, outside the frame. SR-80 has a smaller fiberglass cookie, also outside the frame.

The ATH-7 driver looks like the same thing, except with a big fiberglass cookie inside the frame (under the Y that the stax cookies usually sit on top of).
post #13422 of 18896
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericj View Post
Having had two sets of SR-30 drivers, one set of SR-80 drivers, and seen pictures of the ATH-7 driver, my take is that the difference is in the damping.

The SR-30 has a big fiberglass cookie on the back of the driver, outside the frame. SR-80 has a smaller fiberglass cookie, also outside the frame.

The ATH-7 driver looks like the same thing, except with a big fiberglass cookie inside the frame (under the Y that the stax cookies usually sit on top of).
Cool. Thanks Eric. I'll just have to wait and play with the different drivers and dampening then. I have the AT-706s too, but they are playing quietly. I suspect a cable or varistor issue and not the drivers, but I'll swap in the ATH7 drivers and cable right off the bat and then that will rule out the energizer box if they play fine with the new drivers/cable. Then I can swap the cable off the old 706 drivers and rule that out. Either way, I'll have enough drivers to get the ATH7 and AT-706s back to their glory. Found some pads on eBay out of HK that should fit the ATH7s nicely, but I won't post anything up until I audition them.
post #13423 of 18896
I've tried to damp the vents of the PMB-80 with micropore:


But there was no deep bass, and less impact compared to more traditional sealing of the baffle:
post #13424 of 18896
sealing on the baffle ? i use nippon tapes...
post #13425 of 18896
Foam tape might work too. I've used foam (but not foam tape) on the HOK.

Now I need a small cup of espresso.
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Gear mentioned in this thread:

Yamaha Stereo Headphones
Fostex T50RP Closed Ear Stereo Headphones
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