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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 810

post #12136 of 23549
Thread Starter 
That's good to know, guys. Thanks for the comparison. I can slip back into the freezing waters of the north Atlantic now with a smile on my face.
post #12137 of 23549
I got inspired by the egg-mod and decided to make a bass-heavy ortho out of the Dual. (Since I already have the light and airy LCD1)

I put on the thin comfy lambskin pads, and redid the damping. Out went all felt, the disc in the back (converting it to open-back), etc.

I decided to only use one thick piece of fiberglass as damping. But since I am only using that one piece, I decided not to use the normal kind of yellow fiberglass for wall isolation. I instead picked a piece that's a bit stiffer but also supposedly damps harder.

Initial listening through my pioneer power amp says its got plenty of (deep) bass.
post #12138 of 23549
Poseidon, is that you?
post #12139 of 23549
Thread Starter 
I try not to do movie references, but it's from Cameron's Titanic.

Sounds like you west coast guys are going to have a good testing session that will include the new orthos from Audeze and Head-Direct. Brush up your damping. Give those oldsters a fighting chance.
post #12140 of 23549
Poseidon probably slipped back into the freezing waters of the north Atlantic with a smile on his face after wrecking the Titanic.

Of course I would prefer the older orthos to be able to keep up with the newer ones (my wallet would very much agree) but in my biased opinion, the old orthos don't hold a candle to the new ones, just based on design and specifications alone. The size of the drivers, better tolerances, better magnets, open back, etc etc.
post #12141 of 23549
Thread Starter 
No, and I wouldn't really expect them to. They were well and truly hobbled by their makers in many ways, most likely to get costs down. All I ever expected was that they'd point the way and show a family resemblance to the new stuff. 80% of the quality for 10% of the money, or close to that.

Back to SFI's a moment. Someone was asking about them, and while I think both 120-ohm and 32-ohm versions can be useful (depending on what you're using to drive them), the 32-ohm version seems to mate best with home amps and many if not most portable amps-- obviously your mileage may not only vary but depart from all expectation. The simplest homebrew enclosure is a ported Smeggipuck (my whimsical name for it), illustrated here.. The tiny port leads directly to the edge of the felt disc(s) which lie behind the driver. Your burden, should you decide to assume it, is to find a way to attach these pucks to some sort of headband, maybe like the one illustrated here, which is either an old ATH-3 or ATH-5 but could also be a Signet TK22.

It would also be interesting to transplant an SFI into an ATH-2, or use the ATH-2 open-back design to modify a SmeggiPuck.

.
post #12142 of 23549
post #12143 of 23549
I'm lost after konichiwa.

+ YouTube Video
post #12144 of 23549
Thread Starter 
"Lost After Konichiwa" would be a great song for The Flaming Lips.

I'm still hoping that Fostex has a skonk works next-gen isodynamic program going somewhere deep in the hive, just as Mazda had an unauthorized clot of fanatics working on the side-port Wankel.
post #12145 of 23549

YH 100 Ball Joints any suggestions?

First let me thank everyone for the suggestions on fixing my head-strap.

As suggested my local shoe repair guy was intrigued when I contacted him, a few days later the custom leather he order arrived and he replicated the head-strap for me in black, a little slippery but in some way better than original.

The ear pads are permanently compressed at this point and in need of replacement, any suggestions on a direct replacement and where to buy them. I did surf the hi-fi site but no clear recommendation.

Last but very important, one of the ball joints broke off a couple of days after replacing the head strap, probably jealous and in need of attention. First attempt at gluing it failed miserably with epoxy. Any suggestions on repair or replacement, for that matter any suggestions on extracting the post from the sling press fit?

Again, THANKS!

Mark


PS If someone has a flamed out pair of YH100 they want to sell for parts let me know.
post #12146 of 23549

YH 100 Found post on ear pads

Found post on ear pads, thanks Boilermaker

http://www.head-fi.org/forums/5928841-post11478.html

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"In the case of rythmndevil's YH-100s, a $5 Koss R10 ear pad proved to be the most consistent even over ESW9 leather ear pads when swapping systems. I had the YH-100s tuned to a spectacular level for my CR-620 with the ESW9 pads, but when I switched to my old receiver and the PC, the bass was gone and the highs were painfully bright. The SR-X pads were the same way, if not even worse. Back to the R10s, a little tweak to the tape on the back of the driver and they were very consistent across the 4 systems and at a level that I would call 90-95% of their capabilities in the stock headband cups. The last 5-10% can only be extracted by rd tuning or tweaking them on the specific gear rd plans to use to his tastes."










Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubo View Post
First let me thank everyone for the suggestions on fixing my head-strap.

As suggested my local shoe repair guy was intrigued when I contacted him, a few days later the custom leather he order arrived and he replicated the head-strap for me in black, a little slippery but in some way better than original.

The ear pads are permanently compressed at this point and in need of replacement, any suggestions on a direct replacement and where to buy them. I did surf the hi-fi site but no clear recommendation.

Last but very important, one of the ball joints broke off a couple of days after replacing the head strap, probably jealous and in need of attention. First attempt at gluing it failed miserably with epoxy. Any suggestions on repair or replacement, for that matter any suggestions on extracting the post from the sling press fit?

Again, THANKS!

Mark


PS If someone has a flamed out pair of YH100 they want to sell for parts let me know.
post #12147 of 23549
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubo View Post
Last but very important, one of the ball joints broke off a couple of days after replacing the head strap, probably jealous and in need of attention. First attempt at gluing it failed miserably with epoxy. Any suggestions on repair or replacement, for that matter any suggestions on extracting the post from the sling press fit?

Again, THANKS!

Mark


PS If someone has a flamed out pair of YH100 they want to sell for parts let me know.
Which side do you need replaced? I have a YH-100 frame with one cracked strut and one good one. I forget at this point which one is cracked.
post #12148 of 23549
Quote:
Originally Posted by mypasswordis View Post
Of course I would prefer the older orthos to be able to keep up with the newer ones (my wallet would very much agree) but in my biased opinion, the old orthos don't hold a candle to the new ones, just based on design and specifications alone. The size of the drivers, better tolerances, better magnets, open back, etc etc.
Open back... well, half-open back at least wasn't that uncommon (Dual, Akai, Grundig, PMB...) and it can give decent headstage.
post #12149 of 23549
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefectiveAudioComponent View Post
Open back... well, half-open back at least wasn't that uncommon (Dual, Akai, Grundig, PMB...) and it can give decent headstage.
In Europe, sure. Here in the US we're pretty much limited to Yamaha and Fostex, with a couple oddballs here and there (correct me if I'm wrong, I haven't been actively searching in a long time).
post #12150 of 23549

YH 100 Ball Joint

EricJ,

The right side headphone ball joint is the one that is broken, L & R appear to be the same to me.

Any suggestion on how to disconnect the press fit from the sling? Just push the pin out, is it that easy?

Once I get it torn apart, I might as well rebuild the padding and look at changing the wires while the patient is open.


Thanks


Quote:
Originally Posted by ericj View Post
Which side do you need replaced? I have a YH-100 frame with one cracked strut and one good one. I forget at this point which one is cracked.
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