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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 809

post #12121 of 23440
ooops, sorry i miss that one...so it's true but an old story, my mistake then...
post #12122 of 23440
The HD485 has circular pads with a big opening. barleyguy fixed that problem by filling in with felt and blue tack.

One possible fix for the cloth pads is electricians tape on the outside of the pads. I've read about that for AKGs, if I remember correctly. I'm not sure if that's a reversible fix though. I could see the tape destroying the ear pads if you try to get it off.

Personally, I wouldn't bother though because very little music that I listen to has very deep bass, and I listen at a low enough level that I barely hear it even when it's there.

Edit: I have discovered an album that goes low enough that my iPod can't play it period. It's a 3 disc collection of Buxtehude organ music.

http://www.cduniverse.com/search/xx/...rgan+Works.htm
post #12123 of 23440
Thread Starter 
Buxtehude on an iPod. Love it. Besides, us old classical jocks just love saying "Buxtehude".


[Buffalo Bob] Say kids! What time is it?

[peanut gallery] It's Buxtehude Time!

[Buffalo Bob] Not for that frickin' iPod, it isn't!

[peanut gallery] Yaaaay!
post #12124 of 23440
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post
Buxtehude on an iPod. Love it. Besides, us old classical jocks just love saying "Buxtehude".


[Buffalo Bob] Say kids! What time is it?

[peanut gallery] It's Buxtehude Time!

[Buffalo Bob] Not for that frickin' iPod, it isn't!

[peanut gallery] Yaaaay!
I bet the Sony X series and the A8xx series can, at least in WAV format. I'll have to try it on my A816...
post #12125 of 23440
Quote:
Originally Posted by iQEM View Post
sorry to ask,cos i didn't know sennheiser too much..actually i dislike how they sound,thats why i ignore em..lol
the earpads, is it oval or round? and is it wide inner hole or small? even if its using fabric pads i'm sure its gonna do low bass if you had the right seal on the cup+baffle..have you try lining the plastic cup+baffle with rubber tape or dynamat ? too many blutak would tame the whole bass (incl.low notes),my past experience from blutak mod on K518dj..just take some trial&error again on sealing&damping schemes before you try another material earpads..
The HD485 is an oval enclosure, basically open. It's got just enough structure front and back to hold it together.

After reading your post, and surmising that 12 sticks of blue tak may be sucking up some bass, I lined the edges with rubber electrical tape (between the driver and the blue tak), and then added a strip of black dense felt (not from the back, but as a strip around the edge). That made a huge difference. It's got more bass and the treble is smoother.

I think I'm sticking with where it's at for now, to see how it sounds longer term. So far I really like it.
post #12126 of 23440
Quote:
Originally Posted by Faust2D View Post
Here is a full Tomek guide to YH-100 modding as emailed to me for upload:



















I name it the EGG mod, care to guess why?

hey guys thanks for this excellent mod and writeup. i am about to try this, but i have a few questions before i start.

is there a suitable replacement for bitum that i can find in the states? i tlooks like the bitum is used as a spacer in part of this mod and i think dynamat (extreme at least) would just squish and make a mess.

what is the tool called in the top left of tools i used (first picture) it looks like a compass with a knife attached to it, it would be handy for me on many occasions and i would like to get one.
(edit called circle cutter, thanks boilermaker fan)

is there 2x cotton pads per side, or only one per side?

do you guys just grab a piece of standard fiberglass insulation and go at it, or are there places to find thin sheets of fiberglass insulation?
(edit found pipe insulation should do this job perfectly)
thanks all
post #12127 of 23440
Quote:
Originally Posted by barleyguy View Post
The HD485 is an oval enclosure, basically open. It's got just enough structure front and back to hold it together.

After reading your post, and surmising that 12 sticks of blue tak may be sucking up some bass, I lined the edges with rubber electrical tape (between the driver and the blue tak), and then added a strip of black dense felt (not from the back, but as a strip around the edge). That made a huge difference. It's got more bass and the treble is smoother.

I think I'm sticking with where it's at for now, to see how it sounds longer term. So far I really like it.
yes,it make a huge difference for sure..just ada lil amount of blutak to holding driver to the baffle together,nonetheless..and make sure that every opening are seal properly with the rubber tapes,well you can let 1 hole each cup for an opening but i prefer not letting any holes opened..
post #12128 of 23440
Quote:
Originally Posted by pistolsnipe View Post
hey guys thanks for this excellent mod and writeup. i am about to try this, but i have a few questions before i start.

is there a suitable replacement for bitum that i can find in the states? i tlooks like the bitum is used as a spacer in part of this mod and i think dynamat would just squish and make a mess.

what is the tool called in the top left of tools i used (first picture) it looks like a compass with a knife attached to it, it would be handy for me on many occasions and i would like to get one.

is there 2x cotton pads per side, or only one per side?

do you guys just grab a piece of standard fiberglass insulation and go at it, or are there places to find thin sheets of fiberglass insulation?

thanks all
The tool is an OLFA circle or hole cutter. Used extensively in Radio Control cars/trucks and craft hobbies like quilting. I use it for R/C and for cutting templates and pad adapters.

Amazon.com: CMP1 Circle Cutter: Toys & Games

As far as the bitumen, it's pretty much the only product like it any more. there may be an alternative, but I haven't tried it yet. I'll have to dig through my PMs to find it...

I'll post it as a new post so you don't miss an edit.
post #12129 of 23440
Hey, I'm getting back into the ortho game with an SFI frankenphone. I was wondering if there was any consensus on what makes an SFI headphone sound good. Proper sealing of the driver, good dampening, open vs closed, etc. Also, is there a significant difference between the 32ohm and 120ohm versions?
post #12130 of 23440
thanks for the link on the circle cutter

Quote:
Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan View Post
As far as the bitumen, it's pretty much the only product like it any more. there may be an alternative, but I haven't tried it yet. I'll have to dig through my PMs to find it...
do you know where i can buy bitum online, or what store might sell it? perhaps regular dynamat will work (not extreme) as it is supposed to be asphalt based, which is what buitum looks to be


assuming you can use dynamat regular, here is everything needed for the mod

http://www.amazon.com/Thermwell-SP41...5912174&sr=1-1
http://www.amazon.com/Swisspers-Cott...5912510&sr=8-3
http://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-10115-...912547&sr=8-12

i think ill hit up my local hardware stores first to see if i can find bitum, although i doubt very seriously that anyone will sell me a small quantity.
post #12131 of 23440
Quote:
Originally Posted by jageur272 View Post
Hey, I'm getting back into the ortho game with an SFI frankenphone. I was wondering if there was any consensus on what makes an SFI headphone sound good. Proper sealing of the driver, good dampening, open vs closed, etc. Also, is there a significant difference between the 32ohm and 120ohm versions?
well, i prefer full closed or vented but firmly seal enclosure..
base on my experience (i own both of em) 120ohm gave a lot of wider freqs than the 32ohm on same enclosure, cables, dampening schemes, seal, pads..
and 32ohms seems to be darker, laidback/recess treble and bigger midbass quantity compare to the 120ohms..
120ohms got better headstage, resolution, detail, imaging, separation and more brigther than the 32ohms, for the others are equally the same..
offcourse not to forget that the 12Oohms are less efficient than the 32ohms..
the character of 32ohms are almost the same as ATH2, sansui SS-L55, vectorscan VSH5 and realistic Pro30..cmiiw
post #12132 of 23440

RP18 Update

Curiosity and cetoole's question of whether I tried the O2 pads got the better of me, so I swapped them on the RP18s.

The Denon pads are great, but the larger ear opening of the O2 pads made them miles more comfortable and they aren't as thick as the Denon pads.

The upper highs and bass both came forward, the mids are recessed as well as the highs in the cymbals region. Nothing I can't tune though as I know the sound quality is there with the Denon pads...

Have an early Mon. morning day trip, so the dampening mods have to wait.
post #12133 of 23440
Thread Starter 
Yes, bitumen is asphalt. Heavy petroleum product, used to damp panels by converting vibration into heat in the gooey layer. Dynamat is a layer of aluminum stuck to a layer of bitumen. This is the most effective way to use a viscoelastic layer to absorb vibration on a panel (eg on a car body) but is overkill for small curved headphone bodies. It's called constrained-layer damping or CLD.

I'm not saying you won't hear a difference if you kill every possible resonance in a headphone body (especially a metal one like the YH-1000's), but it's my opinion that it's generally not of prime importance. Don't take my word for it, do some experiments and satisfy yourself. But I'd do the other mods first and then do chassis damping as a final touchup. Just my opinion.

Barleyguy, glad to hear you've reached a point where you can stop and take stock. I think that's a wise move. Live with it awhile. Let dissatisfaction with the little faults that are left build to a point where you know what you want to happen and can do it in a concentrated attack. Then even tinier faults will show up that were hidden under the bigger ones and the cycle begins again. At some point you have to stop and say "good e-freakin'-nough!" Who knows, you might be there now.
post #12134 of 23440
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post
At some point you have to stop and say "good e-freakin'-nough!"
Heh, now that I can relate to.

I have to say that I am at peace with my YH100 and although not as talented as the HE5, it is not out of place in its company.

..dB
post #12135 of 23440
Quote:
Originally Posted by dBel84 View Post
Heh, now that I can relate to.

I have to say that I am at peace with my YH100 and although not as talented as the HE5, it is not out of place in its company.

..dB
I agree..listening to your Yh-100, my ID1 and the HE-5 ..the two vintage orthos offer exceptional value for money.

The Yh-100 of course is expertly modded by our resident zen master Don while the ID1 is compeltely stock as it was meant to be when they made it back in 1972.

Truly remarkable really that at a tenth of the cost of the new orthos the old ones have so much to offer. That extra 5% though carries a hefty price tag..
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