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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 806

post #12076 of 22845
Isn't it the South African Cricket team
post #12077 of 22845
post #12078 of 22845
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post
I was looking at your photos again and... are we absolutely sure the Yamaha drivers in that DR-11 were the original drivers? That hot glue looked juuust a little suspicious.
i guess no cos no one ever mod ortho before like we did on my country,indonesia..but who knows, even when i open the cup there's cover with dust everywhere and the cables connected perfectly to the circuitry..
anyway i had spray again the fixing axle with wd40 but still had no result..i guess i have to dismantle the driver to see what cause em both died..

Quote:
Originally Posted by dBel84 View Post
try the method that I PM'd you.

I have just fixed the 4th YH1000 driver and the HP50A - begining to became a little blase about the whole thing.

..dB
wow,an HP50A
and 4 YH1k driver? thats was awesome..

yes i will try the method that you had pm for me,thx again for reminding me dB..
too bad there's no right tool to do that right now..
wish me luck guys,i must recondition an HP50A, YH100&a pair of DR11..
post #12079 of 22845
2 or 3 weeks ago I recabled my YH100 using the Conducfil ( Spanish manufacture )Sonolene 3014 cable. There were 2 reasons for this:
- I hated the stock cable, it has microphonics, it looks ****y and sounds as well
This cable is bloody cheap, in Poland 1m is about 1,2 $ so it costs nothing. I also treated the cable with Furutech jack ( in Poland more or less 17$ ). It looks better than any Neutrik I've seen and it's more solid.
My YH100 are moded using Tomek method of damping. At first, after the cable replacement, I felt that bass is much stronger than it was with stock cable. It has more impact and it goes deeper than any bass I've heard ( even in 10000$ speakers ). Mids are more smooth and more tonal perfect. Earlier they were a bit edgy, which is a thing I hate most. Trebles are improved as well, not harshness, they are more clean and smoot.

In fact for a 30 ( maximum ) bucks investment it's a huge improvement I can't possibly go back to stock cable. I 've read a lot of posts with people complaining about recabling effects, that their rthodyamics have lost bass and all other things. I can say that Conducfil Sonolene 3014 is a request of your problems.
post #12080 of 22845
Thread Starter 
I for one am always glad to hear someone's got on well with a YH-100.

Don, what was the original problem with this HP-50A that was flung at you? and how did you successfully get it all back together?
post #12081 of 22845
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post
Don, what was the original problem with this HP-50A that was flung at you? and how did you successfully get it all back together?
I think the ninja stepped on them one night after a secret mission. The problem was intermittent contact - the source was a dodgy connection between the central pin and the driver - i used my magic ink as an adhesive around the base. Getting them back together was tricky - essentially a little brace and glue. I have threaded a hole in the center post to screw the tab back on.

..dB
post #12082 of 22845
Thread Starter 
Threaded? Oh, we gotta see photos or at least a quick sketch of this scheme.

Questions:

1) Is the center electrode basically a rivet? Does it have to be drilled out to disassemble the driver?

2) I've always assumed the center electrode's connection to the diaphragm depended on being clamped in the magnets and that there's no glue of any kind involved (except the dabs holding the magnets together). Have you seen any corrosion in any of these center electrodes?

.
post #12083 of 22845
Quote:
Originally Posted by krisio06 View Post
In fact for a 30 ( maximum ) bucks investment it's a huge improvement I can't possibly go back to stock cable. I 've read a lot of posts with people complaining about recabling effects, that their rthodyamics have lost bass and all other things. I can say that Conducfil Sonolene 3014 is a request of your problems.
My cables I had made cost a wee bit more, but they're 6, 8, 12, or 16 conductor braids that do not have to be sleeved. Even the low end 6 conductor (2-neg, 1-pos 26ga non-cryo'd stranded SPC) audibly improved my beloved T10s and I have several recabled Yammies here. All had either larger conductors of more smaller ones to allow more current to the orthos. I have a 8 conductor 28ga solid, cryod'd SPC cable on the way with a Vampire jack that I'm really excited about trying.

I'm considering it for cetoole's RP18s if my tuning efforts reward me, they may go back to him for a brief audition before cash exchanges via PayPal and they return to me.




Wualta-

A magician should never be expected to reveal his best tricks.
post #12084 of 22845
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan View Post
My cables I had made cost a wee bit more, but they're 6, 8, 12, or 16 conductor braids that do not have to be sleeved. Even the low end 6 conductor (2-neg, 1-pos 26ga non-cryo'd stranded SPC) audibly improved my beloved T10s and I have several recabled Yammies here. All had either larger conductors of more smaller ones to allow more current to the orthos. I have a 8 conductor 28ga solid, cryod'd SPC cable on the way with a Vampire jack that I'm really excited about trying.

Hang on, you are using the Silver Plated Cooper to recable orthodynamics? Sorry, but this is the last cable on earth wihich I would recable my YH100 with. My friend tried recabling a lot of headphones with SPC wire and he wasn't satisfied wtih the results. He said that there is improvement in trebles, but the bass is totally not "ortho-like". I personaly use SPC wire in DIY projects but only becasuse I don't fancy buying pricey Jena for a simple cathode follower buffer ( for example ). I am not talking here about Cyro wire because I haven't heard one ( in speaker cables and interconnects too ).

Conducfil 3014 is an OFC cable. My next DIY project, which is an heavenly powerfull headphone amp for my YH100, would be wired using this cable
post #12085 of 22845
Quote:
Originally Posted by krisio06 View Post
Hang on, you are using the Silver Plated Cooper to recable orthodynamics? Sorry, but this is the last cable on earth wihich I would recable my YH100 with. My friend tried recabling a lot of headphones with SPC wire and he wasn't satisfied wtih the results. He said that there is improvement in trebles, but the bass is totally not "ortho-like". I personaly use SPC wire in DIY projects but only becasuse I don't fancy buying pricey Jena for a simple cathode follower buffer ( for example ). I am not talking here about Cyro wire because I haven't heard one ( in speaker cables and interconnects too ).

Conducfil 3014 is an OFC cable. My next DIY project, which is an heavenly powerfull headphone amp for my YH100, would be wired using this cable
SPC doesn't audibly change the bass, unless it was a thinner gauge wire and it has greater power losses. It does bring up the highs a bit, but that's a good thing with most orthos.

I had stock copper on my T10s and lost a channel. I recabled with the 26ga stranded SPC thinking the problem was in the stock cable. It wasn't, but the bass of my T10s and the midrange is exactly the same or no audible changes. The highs are brighter or rather, brought more forward where they were a little recessed before.

Cryo has NO affect on the sound signature of wire, it only make the solid wire stronger and less susceptible to physical damage and breakage. Only cost me $10 on a spool of 500 feet of 28ga solid SPC, so I had it cryo'd.

EDIT: To be fair, there may be differences in the new cable, but I have never done a side-by-side of the exact same wire manufacture's SPC and non-SPC of equal gauge on identically dampened cans. There are too many variables to definitively state that SPC should or should not used or one is better than the other. I can tune the orthos for ether cable. SPC just makes it a little easier, IMHO, since it does bring the highs forward a little.
post #12086 of 22845
Quote:
Originally Posted by bjarnetv
i could probably live with them stock if i were to use them as a workphone only (which i probably will), where pleasantness takes precedence over details, but im looking forward to wringing some more performance out of them by stuffing them with felts and bitumen
I pretty much never leave things stock, sometimes just to try things out and see what happens. But imo, definitely don't leave the T20v2 stock; sounds like a mid-bass/low mids bloated mess. I damped mine with 3 stacked discs of medium density felt and the bass is still kind of bloated (in the sense that it doesn't have a clear attack and lingers on for a bit longer than it should).

Quote:
Originally Posted by bjarnetv View Post
the mids are nice, but the highs needs a boost.
headstage is narrow, and instrument separation slightly fuzzy.
I think my damping may have moved the hump into the mids because they are quite forward, sometimes too much for my taste. Headstage is pretty bad, but most orthos are like that. I'll believe the YH1k's "holographic" headstage when I hear it; until then, I'm not buying it.
post #12087 of 22845
Quote:
Originally Posted by mypasswordis View Post
I pretty much never leave things stock, sometimes just to try things out and see what happens. But imo, definitely don't leave the T20v2 stock; sounds like a mid-bass/low mids bloated mess. I damped mine with 3 stacked discs of medium density felt and the bass is still kind of bloated (in the sense that it doesn't have a clear attack and lingers on for a bit longer than it should).
did the faust2d mod earlier today, sans chamois lens, but with some bitumen added to the back of the cups.
cleared things up a little, and added some impact to the bass, but it still feels slightly fuzzy.

as for holographic orthos, i think the modded T30 and tds-15 sound pretty good. better then the jecklins, hp50 and t20 at least
post #12088 of 22845
Quote:
Originally Posted by bjarnetv View Post
did the faust2d mod earlier today, sans chamois lens, but with some bitumen added to the back of the cups.
cleared things up a little, and added some impact to the bass, but it still feels slightly fuzzy.
That mod was optimized for the T50RPv2. My recommended mod for the T20v2 is damp like crazy until the bass hump is gotten rid of. Because I apparently dislike bass humps very much.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bjarnetv
as for holographic orthos, i think the modded T30 and tds-15 sound pretty good. better then the jecklins, hp50 and t20 at least
You best not be trash-talking my (and your) Sturzhelm of Awesomeness.

You're talking about the 'stats, right? I think they're the only "headphones" I have that are capable of soundstage, as opposed to headstage.
post #12089 of 22845
Quote:
Originally Posted by mypasswordis View Post
That mod was optimized for the T50RPv2. My recommended mod for the T20v2 is damp like crazy until the bass hump is gotten rid of. Because I apparently dislike bass humps very much.
i like humps; my modded t30 now has a hump at around 40-30hz and i like it

Quote:
Originally Posted by mypasswordis View Post
You best not be trash-talking my (and your) Sturzhelm of Awesomeness.

You're talking about the 'stats, right? I think they're the only "headphones" I have that are capable of soundstage, as opposed to headstage.
they remind me of the esl63 actually. involving and big sound, but not the most detailed.
the jeckins are the best headphones i own (or at least the ones i like the most), and though the soundstage is huge, they do lack proper instrument separation and "depth".
post #12090 of 22845
Ooh, low bass hump. Certainly better than a mid-bass hump, but I don't know if that's something I could live with all the time. Which is probably why we end up with headphone fleets, eh?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bjarnetv
they remind me of the esl63 actually. involving and big sound, but not the most detailed.
the jeckins are the best headphones i own (or at least the ones i like the most), and though the soundstage is huge, they do lack proper instrument separation and "depth".
Being compared to the ESL-63 is a compliment of the highest order. Sometimes you just want music to sound good, even when the recordings are bad, which is actually most of the time. That reminds me. Do you have thin sheets of rectangular foam on each side of the drivers? I find removing them makes a big difference in sound.
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