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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 805

post #12061 of 21680
10/14/09 at 12:18pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by iQEM View Post
well here's my contribution for the Wiki Ortho..
Excellent. Good photos.
A very strange headphone. It's likely that the bass control is merely a treble cut control and that the treble control rolls off the bass. Odd that the drivers worked, then stopped. I assume you bypassed the cable and EQ circuitry for your tests.

Have we ever suggested that you get a heavy-duty contact cleaner similar to the DeoxIT that's sold in the US? It's just possible that a tiny drop or two applied to the center electrode will help. Have you tried gently twisting the center electrode using the solder tab?
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post #12062 of 21680
10/14/09 at 12:27pm
yaaayyy, the VectorScan VSH5 now is the house...

will give more detail impression later...
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post #12063 of 21680
10/14/09 at 12:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post
Excellent. Good photos.
A very strange headphone. It's likely that the bass control is merely a treble cut control and that the treble control rolls off the bass. Odd that the drivers worked, then stopped. I assume you bypassed the cable and EQ circuitry for your tests.

Have we ever suggested that you get a heavy-duty contact cleaner similar to the DeoxIT that's sold in the US? It's just possible that a tiny drop or two applied to the center electrode will help. Have you tried gently twisting the center electrode using the solder tab?
but i already bypass the cable to the driver (as seen on the picts on wiki's), cos my suspect was the cable from the circuitry already non function from the start my friend purchase it...

yes, i have read about using that contact cleaner (only had WD40 on the house) but i spray all the magnet holes but not the centre electrode...i spray that WD40 AFTER both of em died and still have nothing as a result...
OK, i'll spray the centre electrode...and twisting the centre electrode using solder tab ? hmmm, i should try that too...anyway thank's for the input, wualta...
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post #12064 of 21680
10/14/09 at 2:27pm
Thread Starter 
No guarantees, because life is a romping adventure is it not, but at this point, what have you got to lose? If an aggressive corrosion-eating contact cleaner doesn't work, and the drivers are truly dead-dead-dead, you can practice on them. Clamp the magnets, grind off the glue that holds the magnets together, carefully remove clamps, and see if you can take the driver to bits. You may or may not get the DR-11 working, but you'll learn a lot how the first-gen Yamahas were supposed to work.

Then later you can transplant some working Yamadrivers into the DR-11 and amaze people with your funkiness.
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post #12065 of 21680
10/15/09 at 2:49am
understood, actually i had use the DR11 housing for my DIYcans 120ohm after the real DR11 driver's die...and it's more amaze me than before, even the new guest on the house, VSH5 sounds junk to me compared to my DIYcans...the soundstage now are good, the comfort raise a level...well i prefer fullsize with circumaural than mid-size supraural, maybe just me with my big head...

OK, i'll experiment with the DR11 driver...hopefully i can fix em, and fix the other's driver (HP50A & YH100) too...
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post #12066 of 21680
10/15/09 at 4:09pm
Thread Starter 
I was looking at your photos again and... are we absolutely sure the Yamaha drivers in that DR-11 were the original drivers? That hot glue looked juuust a little suspicious.
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post #12067 of 21680
10/15/09 at 4:14pm
Has anyone tried making a plastic housing for a SFI driver?
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post #12068 of 21680
10/15/09 at 4:15pm
havent posted a whole lot lately, as speakers are eating up most of my listening-time, but thats about to change, as i just recieved some fostex t20v2 in the mail
i needed something new to play with, so the reasonable fostexens on UK ebay ended up being too tempting to let go.

i guess most of you have probably already heard them, but i'll add my initial impressions anyway


stock they sound slightly muffled, but polite and enjoyable.
they have more midbass than my modded t30, but it doesnt have the same delicious authority in the lower bass.
the mids are nice, but the highs needs a boost.
headstage is narrow, and instrument separation slightly fuzzy.

pads are pretty weird, as they feel pretty good for a couple of minutes, only to murder the ears later by adding too much pressure to the edges of the ear.

i could probably live with them stock if i were to use them as a workphone only (which i probably will), where pleasantness takes precedence over details, but im looking forward to wringing some more performance out of them by stuffing them with felts and bitumen
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post #12069 of 21680
10/15/09 at 9:09pm
Thread Starter 
We must have roughly similar ears (or words), because that's pretty much how I'd describe the T20v2 also.

It's got so much 'wiggle room' that you can make it sound almost completely unlike the way it sounds stock. Have fun with it. It's very... plastic. And I don't mean the chassis.

Speaking of cheap viagra, we need to poke ludoo and ask him to update his search engine.
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post #12070 of 21680
10/15/09 at 11:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by malldian View Post
Has anyone tried making a plastic housing for a SFI driver?
The fake ESW9 headphones are plastic and the SFI drivers fit perfectly. drill the vent hole for them and you're set. The wood grain is just a sticker too so you could buy new stickers to change the look to CF, chrome, what ever you feel like. Or just peel the stickers and wash off the residue for a solid black cup.

EDIT, you could also make SmeggyFi pucks out of 1" thick HDPE if you can find a 1" thick cutting board. HDPE is great because it can be carved and cut with X-acto knives (or coping saw), drilled and tapped, or carefully heat molded in the oven or with a heat gun. I make a lot of prototype parts in HDPE to try different designs. As the HD implies, it's high density so it doesn't vibrate or ring excessively either.

EDIT 2: HDPE can be dyed with RIT (or vinyl dye in the aerosol cans at auto parts stores for a deeper penetrating dye) and sanded very smooth for a fine satin finish or you can heat polish it after it's really smooth, but practice on scrap first. After the heat polishing, use wax and buff to a bowling ball shine.
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post #12071 of 21680
10/16/09 at 12:02am
I am planning on making my own housing out of that moldable plastic stuff. Just ordered some today
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post #12072 of 21680
10/16/09 at 12:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by iQEM View Post
OK, i'll experiment with the DR11 driver...hopefully i can fix em, and fix the other's driver (HP50A & YH100) too...
try the method that I PM'd you.

I have just fixed the 4th YH1000 driver and the HP50A - begining to became a little blase about the whole thing.

..dB
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post #12073 of 21680
10/16/09 at 12:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dBel84 View Post
try the method that I PM'd you.

I have just fixed the 4th YH1000 driver and the HP50A - begining to became a little blase about the whole thing.

..dB
ROTFLMAO!

Don's thought: "Crap! Another one showed up? Of well, at least I can do this while I watch the Seahawks (or your favorite team, but you live closest to the 'Hawks) game..."
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post #12074 of 21680
10/16/09 at 12:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by malldian View Post
I am planning on making my own housing out of that moldable plastic stuff. Just ordered some today
Good luck. I hope it works great and is rigid enough because we could make some really cool enclosures or micro-horns if it works well.
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post #12075 of 21680
10/16/09 at 12:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoilermakerFan View Post
ROTFLMAO!

Don's thought: "Crap! Another one showed up? Of well, at least I can do this while I watch the Seahawks (or your favorite team, but you live closest to the 'Hawks) game..."
not far off ..dB
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