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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 803

post #12031 of 23550
Thread Starter 
The Boston Audio Society Speaker was always worth consulting BITD. The test of headphones in that issue is from a 1978 edition of Hi-Fi Choice (the new 1980 edition hadn't arrived yet, according to the article).

The BAS has put out pdfs of many of the old issues on the web, and they're all worth a look to see the gymnastics people went through to wring decent sound out of all-electromechanical (read: analog) devices. Many analog devices of the time just weren't very analogous, and we had it rough, I tells ya.

The ET 1000 was a thoroughly good headphone, worthy of resurrection and the respect it never seemed to get in life, and speaking of seeming, Smeggy seems bent on challenging its macho German design, but so far it's shining on, like... like a crazy diamond or something. 400 volts overbias? Too cool.
post #12032 of 23550
I hope to never have to live a day where I don't spot a Pink Floyd reference, where there's one to be spotted.
post #12033 of 23550
Hi everyone

I've been reading this thread for a couple months now, but I've only consumed about half of it so far =/

I started when I came across a Pro 30 in a box of my father's old AV supplies. Stuffed them with an excessively intricate layering of felt and foam, and popped off the metal caps, and they definitely lived up to the name 'pro'.

I ended up taking the drivers and sticking them in a completely absurd giant steampunk headset I made with a hybrid mosfet/tube amp built in (I really just wanted an excuse to make headphones with a tube sticking out), which sounds surprisingly good for what a silly idea it is. Hardly the pinnacle of audio fidelity though.

Now I want to order some of the SFI drivers and make something more, uh, refined. To that end I have a few questions (which were probably answered already, but would likely take me another month to extract from this thread).

Was it determined that 32ohm SFI drivers are identical to the Pro 30 drivers?
Are there advantages/disadvantages to the 120ohm SFI vs the 32ohm?

Did anyone confirm that a fully closed wooden cup design works out ok?

Last, was there a way found to use circumaural pads without killing bass? I can't deal with supraaural and I'd rather kill bass than my ears, but it'd be nice not to kill anything.

Thanks for any help~
post #12034 of 23550
Quote:
Originally Posted by ourfpshero View Post
added a heavy felt circle to the back of the drivers. already had the factory pad and a large flet back covering the cup insides. the bass tightened up considerably and the treble came out a little.
heres a pic showing the donated headband cushion
the headband look comfort to me...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seggybop View Post
Hi everyone

I've been reading this thread for a couple months now, but I've only consumed about half of it so far =/

I started when I came across a Pro 30 in a box of my father's old AV supplies. Stuffed them with an excessively intricate layering of felt and foam, and popped off the metal caps, and they definitely lived up to the name 'pro'.

I ended up taking the drivers and sticking them in a completely absurd giant steampunk headset I made with a hybrid mosfet/tube amp built in (I really just wanted an excuse to make headphones with a tube sticking out), which sounds surprisingly good for what a silly idea it is. Hardly the pinnacle of audio fidelity though.

Now I want to order some of the SFI drivers and make something more, uh, refined. To that end I have a few questions (which were probably answered already, but would likely take me another month to extract from this thread).

Was it determined that 32ohm SFI drivers are identical to the Pro 30 drivers?
Are there advantages/disadvantages to the 120ohm SFI vs the 32ohm?

Did anyone confirm that a fully closed wooden cup design works out ok?

Last, was there a way found to use circumaural pads without killing bass? I can't deal with supraaural and I'd rather kill bass than my ears, but it'd be nice not to kill anything.

Thanks for any help~
first of all,welcome to an Ortho world..

good found for the Pro30, but you should try put em' back to the original housing before you put em' to another enclosure..
you can buy a set of SFI's (120ohm pair&32ohm pair, yes you may order em mix) and go figure which one that you prefer, both are good with circumaural pads (leather,pleather or velour..
choose what you like most)..you not gonna kill the bass as long as you dampening&seal em' good..
fyi i use my 120ohms on the DR11 enclosure now and bass is still there..even more than my last enclosure but not a bassy or bloated one, well goodluck..
post #12035 of 23550
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seggybop
Was it determined that 32ohm SFI drivers are identical to the Pro 30 drivers?
Are there advantages/disadvantages to the 120ohm SFI vs the 32ohm?
I'm pretty sure they're the same. As to 120 vs 32, I'm pretty sure the 120 ohm was stated as considerably less efficient than the 32 ohm versions. Otherwise go by whatever normal limitations are provided by matching impedances with an amplifier. 120R would be better for OTL, but if you have an amp with low output impedance go for the 32R version (edit: or not). No one has yet done a comprehensive head to head of sound quality, that I know of.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seggybop
Did anyone confirm that a fully closed wooden cup design works out ok?
IMO fully closed anything sounds like junk, although I have not had the pleasure of dealing with wooden enclosures. I think all of Smeggy's wooden creations ended up with bass ports, so not *fully* closed, per se.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seggybop
Last, was there a way found to use circumaural pads without killing bass? I can't deal with supraaural and I'd rather kill bass than my ears, but it'd be nice not to kill anything.
I have the same issue. Just make sure the pads seal well. The only transplant I've ever done is 120 ohm SFIs in an Audio Technica AT-702 frame, and I haven't actually fully finished yet. I haven't found a good way to attach the drivers to the frame... right now it's just held in by pressure from the foam behind it and rings of bluetak. Also, the "pads" are just open cell foam. Still, all in all, the end result sounds pretty good. Slightly forward mids, slightly bass-light, but already probably better than most dynamics under $150 or so. I should get around to finishing it (edit: including putting in sealing pads) and recabling it soon, I think the end results will be pretty astonishing.
post #12036 of 23550
Unfortunately I do not have time to invest in my YH-3s :/ Between school and everything else I am doing I want to spend the time I use headphones enjoying the music not critically listening to the equipment. For that I have my Lambda which serves for that fine. If anyone has a SR60 they want to trade for it let me know... I am going to "portablize" it as my everyday phone.

Fortunately I have some Monsoon 1000 speakers in my sisters dorm waiting to be brought back to NJ... I am not ditching you planar nuts after all.
post #12037 of 23550
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ourfpshero View Post
added a heavy felt circle to the back of the drivers. already had the factory pad and a large felt back covering the cup insides. the bass tightened up considerably and the treble came out a little.
Still not enough treble? or is it okay as-is? Bass extension and detail/tightness okay?

Quote:
Originally Posted by malldian View Post
Unfortunately I do not have time to invest in my YH-3s. ... Fortunately I have some Monsoon 1000 speakers.. ..I am not ditching you planar nuts after all.
Oh! We're like SO used to being ditched for Lambdas. ("Ditched For Lambdas" would be a good name for a shoegazer indie rock band) The MM-1000 was pretty good, but watch out for the bulky woofer box and giant wall wart. Not the tightest bass you'll ever hear. The satellites, however, are worth saving.
post #12038 of 23550
Don't worry I still have a few sets of SFI drivers left.
post #12039 of 23550
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seggybop View Post
Are there advantages/disadvantages to the 120ohm SFI vs the 32ohm
I have some 32ohm drivers coming that I'm going to compare to 120, but I don't have two identical enclosures, I'll be swapping them in my ortho QP805 so it still won't be definitive.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Seggybop View Post
Last, was there a way found to use circumaural pads without killing bass? I can't deal with supraaural and I'd rather kill bass than my ears, but it'd be nice not to kill anything.
As I mentioned a few pages ago, the aforementioned QP805s with 120ohm SFIs have circumnaural pads and there can be a ton of bass, or less but more controlled bass as you damp it, but you can get a very full and reasonably controlled bass - it's very interesting trying different damping configurations, it's like having different headphones. The pads seal really well, and aren't the deepest circumnaural pads around, and the baffle is totally sealed.

Tuning the QPs and the Fostex t20v2s is teaching me a lot about how to listen critically to headphones, and about what I like in a headphone. This hobby is like peeling an onion - there's always another layer of detail and discernment. It doesn't make me cry though.
post #12040 of 23550
Quote:
Originally Posted by lecky View Post
Tuning the QPs and the Fostex t20v2s is teaching me a lot about how to listen critically to headphones, and about what I like in a headphone. This hobby is like peeling an onion - there's always another layer of detail and discernment. It doesn't make me cry though.
This ortho thread is particularly good about peeling the audio onion, due to the constant modding and therefore understanding of how things work, empirically and deductively. There's a lot of backtracking to figure out why a certain mod made a certain change in sound, at least for me. And the fact that there's always another layer of detail and discernment is what music is about. I've found that thinking about everything logically and from a distance produces the most "musical" end result, in my playing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta
The MM-1000 was pretty good, but watch out for the bulky woofer box and giant wall wart. Not the tightest bass you'll ever hear. The satellites, however, are worth saving.
I see 700 and 702 satellites without the woofer box on Ebay. Are there replacements I can buy or would I have to build my own crossovers and such?
post #12041 of 23550
Quote:
Originally Posted by lecky View Post
Tuning the QPs and the Fostex t20v2s is teaching me a lot about how to listen critically to headphones, and about what I like in a headphone. This hobby is like peeling an onion - there's always another layer of detail and discernment. It doesn't make me cry though.
I feel that it's more like parfait.
post #12042 of 23550
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericj View Post
I feel that it's more like parfait.
Optimist.
post #12043 of 23550
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericj View Post
I feel that it's more like parfait.
Yum.
post #12044 of 23550
I took the Pioneer SE-205 apart to see if it could serve as a foster phone. For maybe an ortho driver. The baffle is angled, which is good, but the opening is not ideal and must be cut out. Unless one uses an annoying ring dingus. The area that can be used for a driver is 70mm (which is the size of the driver inside the SE-205).

post #12045 of 23550
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post
Still not enough treble? or is it okay as-is? Bass extension and detail/tightness okay?
spent some quality gaming time with the ath-2 now. the treble is pretty much there now and the bass is well balanced. the sound is similar to a jvc harx700 but with tighter bass and smaller soundstage
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