Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 789

And why does it need micropore?

Yup, equal loudness contours... it's just bass-lite. I try my hardest not to listen at ear-bleeding volumes just so I can gripe about the high frequencies a little longer.

I'm going to try using a thin ring/disc of blutak in between the pads and the metal rings they're attached to on the SR-X Mk3 as a hybrid to something spritzer suggested to try and eek out more bass and give me a millimeter increase in distance from the ear. Not too extreme tweaking at its best.

Edit:
I've had the drivers for over half a year by now... was trying to find an SR-3 or something on the cheap as donor frames to swap out the drivers but that never happened. Silly people paying crazy amounts for them on Ebay....

I think you're right. The only possible upgrade paths for me at the moment are SR-404 Limited Edition, ESP-950, Airbow SR-SC1, and maybe the LCD-1, but I'd have to tweak it. And I doubt any of them are drastically superior to what I already have.

actually just an inside dig at 2 of our "thread bearers" but that said, micropore is an incredibly versatile tool for damping in general.

I find the lcd1 to be a little mid focused on a brief listen. It does not glare like vintage undamped ortho's but I do feel it can be tuned.

..dB

I really need to go buy some micropore and tape all of my headphones!

I have my new Denon C-710 canal phones burning in. They showed up this week while I was away starting my new job. Only listened briefly after about 4 hours, but they are definitely an improvement over the C-700s which I really liked. Just can't figure out where to use the micropore on them...

Had headphone withdraw all week though and now I have a cold or something else with terrible sinus and ear congestion along with a dry cough and runny nose. Not good conditions to listen to cans.

lcd-1 exposed

Opening up the lcd-1 is simple - 2 screws is all it takes. Peel back the side edge of the pad in the front and ....





This has been seen before but it reveals a little more truth - the pad is attached to the front baffle!!



and this is where the main weakness of this design lies. There is almost no control of leaky backwaves ( thought that may appeal to you Wualta - a little flatulence clear's a wide space ) The front baffle is really well built - sturdy, non resonant but then it is bolted to this flimsy plastic frame which has no intrinsic seal, a little disappointing.
The pad, eventhough velour, has a vinyl base which will help control the bass a little.

damping pad - some sort of glass fibre



I have sealed the edge of the baffle and noted an improvement , not as marked as I would have liked but enough to be encouraging.

..dB

in my cases,using nippon tape gave better result than using micropore..
lot of my project are using closedback cup but even on Ath2 i choose nippon tape..

no,no im not trying to save any kitten by avoiding micropore..i just like nippon tape better,thats all..

more efficient, full body, more sparkling, better deep bass, smoother, better midrange and less recess/laidback on the instruments..cmiiw

I thought that the pad folding inside the cups would help sealing it up. (This design also makes it easy to swap pads.) So I did not add anything to mine. What did you add to yours?

I'm a bit worried about something else though, that's on your picture there. The cable is glued. Do you think that's enough to resist some tugging to the cable?

it is sturdy enough for day2day use but not sure about a misplaced foot. I will let you know how easily they came off when i get to that point.

..dB

Just been listening to some binaural recordings - just incredible.

The 2 screws are a limitation of the donor frame - it could do with better coupling. I have used a firm foam gasket under the edge of the pad which has offered a much better seal , no need for electric tape nastiness.

Bass is tight and deep , actually sounding VERY nice to my ears right now.

..dB

oh DAC - that glue gun effort is a little feeble

The real question for dBel is when are they getting woodied, and what are you going to use for the donor headband?

you confuse me with smeggy, a little higher up the coast . I have to say, these are now better than any ortho's in my stable. When I got them, they sounded great but not hugely different from some of my modded vintage cans. I can only imagine what custom cups and O2esque pads could do for these drivers. Bass is the only thing which is tempered, it is not YH1K or T50 impressive but has decent bass down to 25Hz ( lowest test tone I have ) and extends up to 20KHz without an effort - no humps that my ears can pick up. This is better than any of my orthos , actually thought I couldn't hear the 20KHz signal but it seems I can, just the headphones were rolling off too soon. Over all balance is superb and they are a real pleasure to listen to.

..dB

Just a foam gasket to improve the seal? Maybe I should try that... How thick was it? (picture of the mod?)

I need to do something about the cable then.

Man are these good , just sat enthralled through my reference disc ( was going to chill out and get to sleep but that didn't happen. )

The gasket is a dense but soft foam ( this was the last of my stock ) I have used it to make gaskets for transformers to damp them. It is 1mm maybe 1 1/2 mm thick , almost like neoprene.

I will hold off posting details of the mod until I have more subjective opinions as to the success of this mod.

The glue will hold for most daily use , but if the cable gets caught and there is any serious tension - it won't hold. There is little room for much else too, perhaps to drill a small u-bracket into the baffle (it looks like there are no traces in this region)

..dB