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Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 729

post #10921 of 18847
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post
More seriously, I'd still like to know what kind of corrosion that is and what caused it. Salt will corrode copper wire, but...
People licking the driver.

Gear mentioned in this thread:

Yamaha Stereo Headphones
Fostex T50RP Closed Ear Stereo Headphones
post #10922 of 18847
magazines , headphones, whatever


..dB
post #10923 of 18847
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sachu View Post
I believe you will see how it was caused when you receive the care package. Bacially moisture gets to the driver due to the openness of the ear cups and over time it just corrodes over.
If it were atmospheric pollution, it wouldn't be limited so sharply to the magnet holes, since air can circulate freely inside the driver. Besides, you'd get the green of copper carbonate, or the brown of copper oxide, both of which form a protective skin or patina. No, this looks like something corrosive, like salt or acid, that was sprayed at the driver, thus the human sweat hypothesis. But still....

Quote:
Originally Posted by antonyfirst View Post
People licking the driver.
Hey, you might be right!

.
post #10924 of 18847
After some listening to the Dual, I found that I like bass extension and treble, but not the messy headstage. I compare to the Grundig that has the best headstage I've heard (But I don't have any of the famous headstage-cans so it doesn't mean so much).

I decided to use the same damping as the Grundig. The Dual is a convertible half-open-back. The black disc that closes it to a vented-closed design can be removed. So, I took it out. Problem was, deep bass disappeared. Wualta thought some extremely dense felt might restore it. It worked very well.

I now have a very thin and light damping on the driver, and a very thick and dense felt on over the grilles. No dots, discs, donuts, or other things that can cause reflections or make the damping uneven over the driver. It's clearly improved headstage.



post #10925 of 18847
I like how Dual cans look, the open back should be actually making headstage better. Do you have pics from inside of the cups?
post #10926 of 18847
Sure!



post #10927 of 18847
Wow, green leafs and Dual frames. Sexy!!!
post #10928 of 18847
Quote:
Originally Posted by Faust2D View Post
Wow, green leafs and Dual frames. Sexy!!!
Maybe I should make posters of those pictures and sell here on head-fi?

Actually, those bars that goes across the cups are a bit of a pain. I've now dampened them using leather that I glued on the inside of the bars.

I also added another layer of leather on the quick-pads. Since they are filled with acoustically quite transparent foam, they needed one more layer. And a ring of thin felt to make them more comfortable.

They sounded good already, though. But I wanted headstage to get even more precise. All this amazing ortho sound in 3D

I feel so very sorry for the Grundig and Dual engineers who never got to properly hear the amazing cans they made. They were so close! Just a piece of felt in the right place, pads with larger hole, and a proper seal of the baffle. That's not too difficult.

Maybe this damping scheme would also work on the HOK80.
post #10929 of 18847
my diyOrtho's 120Ω coming back to live, and it surpass the 32Ω puck (different damping material/scheme)...maybe next project, place the 120Ω SFI to Woodie puck, vice versa...yes, i love Ortho's...

note:
i almost stress out when my SFI died, and only K400's left...
post #10930 of 18847
Sorry if this has been asked before. But I was wondering if there was a place where I could find replacement screws for the Yamaha Orthodynamic headphones. Everytime I open up the headphone, it seems part of the screw seems to wear away. This isn't a big issue right now, I would just like to know if anybody else had the same problem and found a solution.
post #10931 of 18847
refill the holes with epoxy , let it dry and then tap them with the screw - I have used some heavy duty screws but they sit proud and you can feel them through the pad - the epoxy route is what I have started to use..dB
post #10932 of 18847
Quote:
Originally Posted by dBel84 View Post
refill the holes with epoxy , let it dry and then tap them with the screw - I have used some heavy duty screws but they sit proud and you can feel them through the pad - the epoxy route is what I have started to use..dB
Thanks Donald! I'll try the epoxy sometime this week. Probably stop at Home Depot or something this week too. I still haven't found a good dampening setup for the Yamaha headphones. They are...quite stubborn.
post #10933 of 18847
I used a metric HEX head machine screw on rythmnmonkey's YH-100s. I'll be ordering additional screws soon and plan to order a little smaller size. If it works, I'll share the link.
post #10934 of 18847
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefectiveAudioComponent
Actually, those bars that go across the cups are a bit of a pain.
Since the screening covers the whole cup, I suppose you could carefully cut the bars off, but they might be helping boost the top end a little.

The HOK cup is of course oddly similar.

If you try some Dual strategies on an HOK 80-2, let us know. I've always thought of its driver as a "tight" one, and the Dual's seems, from the descriptions, much "looser", but as always I'd love to be proved wrong.

Posters would be nice, and I can envision a line of ortho diaphragms being sold as Christmas ornaments. There's money to be made here. Quick, someone tell the Audeze guys.
post #10935 of 18847
Quote:
Originally Posted by DefectiveAudioComponent View Post
I feel so very sorry for the Grundig and Dual engineers who never got to properly hear the amazing cans they made. They were so close! Just a piece of felt in the right place, pads with larger hole, and a proper seal of the baffle. That's not too difficult.
Yes, it's obvious really. Once you have spent the good part of a year obsessing over damping schemes.
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Gear mentioned in this thread:

Yamaha Stereo Headphones
Fostex T50RP Closed Ear Stereo Headphones
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