Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 71

You won't be able to drive these well with your Ipod alone you need an amplifier (a box that drives the headphone connected between the headphon and ipod) and your headphones are in pretty bad shape you might want to rewire them with new cable.

The pads are 68cm (2 3/4") across and 1cm (7/16") thick.

Yes, I do know how to solder. Finding the intermittent spot might be tricky but I've never given it a serious try; I'll give it a shot. As for replacing the whole cord, I'd need advice on cable type etc. I think there was some mention in an earlier post about using aluminum solder only.... not sure if this is something special, I only have regular solder at the moment and I don't think it's aluminum.

Thanks for your help.

There are a lot of 80mm earpads out there that basically work - such as are found on sony mdr-v(100,150,200,300).

But i can't say i actually recommend them. Just that they basically work.

Oh, and the Yamahas don't have the aluminum solder requirement - you're just soldering to nickel plated brass tabs on the yamas. But, if you can nail down the break in the cable to just at the plug, that makes your life so much easier.

Received my 4-pak SFI tweeters today. Thanks Wualta, for convincing me to buy these, now I regret not getting a 8-pak instead.

Already put a pair into my Panasonic RP-HT355's housing. I am impressed with the result. Good smooth upper end and good bass (not much impact but the deepth is there, very clean. Good enough from such a small closed housing), no echo (thanks to the small Panasonic pleather pads- still circumaural ). Does not really give me that electrostatic feel, but the sound is very smooth and sweet and great for vocal.
Resolution is very good too, better than the QP's (even after recable).

Very pleasant sound.

This is with brand new NOS drivers, I hope things will get even better after some burn-in (the drivers are probably 20 years old?)

Will put the next pair into the 45x housing and see what kind of bass I can get. Too bad the Accura baffle has that 55mm hole and won't take these 38mm drivers.


Have fun (might post pics tomorrow)

by the way, the efficiency is about the same as the 45x, which means I can drive them with my PCDP. Not sure if a mp3 can do the same, we will find out this Saturday.

I wish I could figure out how the multi-quote funtion works....

I think I may just use the pads as is. They are full of fine cracks but are still intact, soft, and comfortable.

It looks like the break is right where the wire enters the strain relief. I don't think I can splice it together right there. I'm guessing this means peeling back the fragile pads, opening up the ear piece, and either pushing the cable through and shortening it (resulting in an uneven Y), or adding a new bit of wire in the ear piece, running it though the strain relief, and spicing it together somewere further down the wire (if that makes sense). Is there any other way to fix a break right at the strain relief?

I saw some posts where people recommended peeling back only the section of pad where the screws are. I think that was for the HP-1 though; are the screws in the HP-3 in the same place?

I was going to insert a picture but all I can seem to do is attach a file, if I try to insert an image it is looking for a URL rather than letting me navigate to a picture from my drive. I guess I'll have to take the Advanced Forum Posting Course.

You click multiquote for all but the last message you want to quote, on which you click quote.


Well, I've never done this with yamas, but I've done it with various brands of headphones.

Whatcha do is:

Extract the cable completely - cut it off leaving a half inch of insulation on each lug, so you have a handy visual aid for what goes where.

Examine the strain relief for a seam of molding flash - the line of extra material where the sides of the mold met - or just lay it down wherever it's flat and pick a straight axis to cut along.

Using a very sharp knife or razor, make a lengthwise incision through one side of the top (inside) portion of the strain relief, about half way down the length of it.

Chances are, it's fused to the insulation of the cable on the top (inside) end and nowhere else.

Sometimes you can peel the strain relief off of the cable at that point, sometimes you end up hacking up the insulation and then carefully carving out the core of the strain relief.

At some point you'll have the strain relief freed from the cable and cleaned up.

Then, yeah, lop an inch or so off the end of the cable, insert it through the butchered strain relief - being sure to provide yourself with enough wire on the top side of the relief to solder to the driver again, and then apply a dab of superglue to the split in the strain relief and press it all back together. This should bond the cable to the strain relief and seal the incision in the relief.

This can look very professional if you use enough care.

I actually damped them. The cavity is filled with high density foam (I put the foam in when the original Panasonic drivers were there, to kill boomyness/echo. I just left the foam in when I install the SFI drivers.).

Is the 8mm dot for boosting treble? at this point the treble is good, actually a little on the bright side to my taste (I like the "Beyer 990 darkness").

Maybe by the time I get the thumps I will need to use the dot to boost treble?

just tried filter pad. Not the fish filter, but it is very similar or maybe identical, I removed the pad from a blue PUR pitch filter

Quite a bit more bass, but muddier, and the thump is actually about the same, just sounds like more bass floating around. Didn't like it, so I tried:
*cotton ball, large: slightly less bass than filter pad, but cleaner.
*Cotton ball with mid density foam pad, foam againsting the driver's back side: ...... can't remember what the out come was, apperantly didn't impressed me enough.
*cotton ball with polyester felt (from a polyester grey scarf I bought at the $ store), felt against the back side of driver: about the same as cotton ball.

It seems like it is either more bass but muddled, or clean sound but less bass. The bass thump is actually about the same. So I went back to the high density foam pad. This one will be mostly for vocal anyway, no need for too much thump.

SFI tweeters into 45x housing:
*stock vent (foam ring), stock black foam pads: bright, no bass, at all.
*stock vent (foam ring), filter pad: the same, no bass.

*solid baffle (filled vent with bluetac), stock black foam pads: some bass, still very very light, no thump.
*Solid baffle, filter pad: more bass, kind of have the thumps now, but not enough for rock (at least to my taste). Sound is clear.
* Solid baffle, filter pad, and grey polyester scarf felt againsting the back of driver: actually less bass than without the felt.
* didn't try high density foam, ran out of it.

No echo, highs and mids are pretty good, just not enough bass. Maybe the 45x pleather pad has too big a center openning?


Wualta, I don't seem to find the post about your UR40 project. Help.......Please...........

Maybe I should put the SFI's into my iGrado housing and micky-mouse a pair of "behind the neck street style" ortho? I do have mini pleather pads to go with them

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