Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphones (full-size) › Orthodynamic Roundup
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Orthodynamic Roundup - Page 68

post #1006 of 23373
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JadeEast View Post
I added some more foam to the guts of the pro-30 definitely reduces the bass booming.
Good to hear. Of course, with the amount of upper bass (or if you prefer, lower midrange) trimmed back to where it should be, the 19mm dots may make the 'phones sound bright, as happened to ericj, in which case I'd recommend chopping one in half and sharing. Save the other dot for your T20v2 when it arrives. Experiment with the half-dots in different places, since the ear's frequency response varies with the angle of incidence.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JadeEast View Post
I noticed the numbering on the back of your pro-30 drivers. On my pair that I'll call lighter sounding the numbering is 0811 on the heavier sounding driver it's 3828. Maybe they're just some code for driver matching who knows.
Well, we can try matching them up with the Radio Shack date codes on the 'phones themselves. There's a sticker on the inside of one of the yokes just below the metal pointy thing that jams up into the headband.

The date on the ones in the photo (pair #3) above says "8A4" which means Aug '84, and the number on the drivers is 4720. On my #1 pair, the date code has been lost since the yokes have been replaced a couple of times, but '84 sounds about right. Drivers look like 5D09 or 5009. Pair #2 (where a set of YHD-2 drivers now lives) was made in Oct '83, driver #3925. I don't see a correlation, unless my guess is wrong and #1 was made in 1985. [EDIT: No surprise, my guess was wrong. see below.]

.
post #1007 of 23373
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post
The date on the ones in the photo (pair #3) above says "8A4" which means Aug '84, and the number on the drivers is 4720. On my #1 pair, the date code has been lost since the yokes have been replaced a couple of times, but '84 sounds about right. Drivers look like 5D09 or 5009. Pair #2 (where a set of YHD-2 drivers now lives) was made in Oct '83, driver #3925. I don't see a correlation.
Mine are labeled 3406 on the drivers, date code 7A3 so june 83.

Maybe it's a serial number? except there are at least two of each. *shrug*.
post #1008 of 23373
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericj View Post
Mine are labeled 3406 on the drivers, date code 7A3 so July '83. Maybe it's a serial number? except there are at least two of each. *shrug*.
I took another look. The first digit is the year of manufacture. That means my #1 pair is from 1985, not '84. That makes sense, since I bought it after it was a discontinued model, in late '86 or early '87. The second digit is anyone's guess; it could just be a simple month/day or day/month code. Who knows.

.
post #1009 of 23373
So I'm officially a member of team ortho as my T50 just showed up. They are in great condition and really look like they are new. The bad news is that the only dynamic amp I have on hand, Corda Aria, doesn't really have the balls to drive them so the bass is very rolled off but rest is just wonderful. They won't challenge any of the higher end Stax models but they are up there amongst the best headphone purchases I've made. I'll let them cook over night and do some extensive listening tomorrow.

Two questions, they have a split arc assembly with a few mm gap between them so that makes them a Mk1 or Mk2 and can I get new earpads for them anywhere?
post #1010 of 23373
Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post
Two questions, they have a split arc assembly with a few mm gap between them so that makes them a Mk1 or Mk2 and can I get new earpads for them anywhere?
Split headband would be Mk1.

I don't believe anybody has an earpad like that for sale anymore. You might be able to make a T20v2 earpad fit, fostex sells them for $7.50 in the US.

http://www.fostexusa.com/store/cart....category_id=61

You'd have to find a european distributor, though.
post #1011 of 23373
Thanks for the info. I was hoping Fostex was as good as Stax for servicing vintage models but I'll try some of my contacts in Japan and see if they can find some for me. I won't need replacements for many years but as a compulsive collector, I must have backups...

What really stands out is their vocal performance and the smooth top end. They can be bright when it is called for and have bite but they are very smooth and neutral. The vocals have the same projection quality as the good electrostatics but the soundstage is pretty small so some mods are in order and the cable has to go.
post #1012 of 23373
hi, I just bought a yamaha hp-1 and is there a way to remove the glued on earpads without damaging them. I really like to perform a damping mod. Also these thing rocks. I use them more than my HD580. This is my favorite can of the moment even without a damping mod.
post #1013 of 23373
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nagasaki_Kid View Post
hi, I just bought a yamaha hp-1 and is there a way to remove the glued on earpads without damaging them. I really like to preform a damping mod. Also these things rock. I use them more than my HD580. This is my favorite can of the moment even without a damping mod.
The trick is to not remove the earpad.

What you do is peel back the earpad only where you need to in order to get at a screw.

For reference, here's a picture of a yamaha headphone with the earpad removed:

http://home.hccnet.nl/joop.nijenhuis...1/RHP1P039.jpg

so you'll peel back one wide spot right above where the cable enters, and three narrow spots that line up with the other screws.

Then you just kind of lift up the edge of the pad and poke in the screwdriver.
post #1014 of 23373
Thread Starter 
Go away and play with some harmless $8 Accuras and look what happens.

Spritzer, if you can get hold of one of the cheap Panasonic digital receivers, try the T50 on one of those, preferably through the speaker outs with an appropriate pad. Any good speaker amp will do, but I think the T50 deserves the best you can throw at it. Glad your initial impressions are favorable. You can try peeling out the fakefiberglass muffin just as you did with your SR-X Mk 3 and see what you think of the undamped sound vs. the increased headstage.

Your idea of going directly to Foster/Fostex Japan is a good one. Since the T50 was introduced 30 years ago, I wouldn't expect to find many spare parts, just as I wouldn't expect Stax to have a shelf full of SR-X Mk 3 drivers, but you never know until you ask. Let us know what they say. If a dealer finds an old NIB T50 sitting under a bottom shelf, you know who to call.
post #1015 of 23373
For removing the pads without damaging them, just be ridiculously careful. Slowly peel them back and maybe use a blade to just push the adhesive off the face of the headphones. That's how I do it. After the first time, it gets easier to remove the double sided time.

Another update on the YH-100 drivers. They're back in the stock configuration in the original housings and such.
post #1016 of 23373
My train of thought was to use some solvents(alcohol or nail polish remover) to weaken the glue but was afraid of damaging the leather.
post #1017 of 23373
Quote:
Originally Posted by wualta View Post
Go away and play with some harmless $8 Accuras and look what happens.

Spritzer, if you can get hold of one of the cheap Panasonic digital receivers, try the T50 on one of those, preferably through the speaker outs with an appropriate pad. Any good speaker amp will do, but I think the T50 deserves the best you can throw at it. Glad your initial impressions are favorable. You can try peeling out the fakefiberglass muffin just as you did with your SR-X Mk 3 and see what you think of the undamped sound vs. the increased headstage.

Your idea of going directly to Foster/Fostex Japan is a good one. Since the T50 was introduced 30 years ago, I wouldn't expect to find many spare parts, just as I wouldn't expect Stax to have a shelf full of SR-X Mk 3 drivers, but you never know until you ask. Let us know what they say. If a dealer finds an old NIB T50 sitting under a bottom shelf, you know who to call.
I have a Audio Analogue doing Stax transformer duty and a vintage Kenwood KA-7100 in the next room. I'll be sure to hook up the Kenwood later and I'll try to find a TRS socket for the Puccini. I really want to buy/build an amp that can drive these things and Sun Audio VT25 with a few mods might be a cheap and effective way to do so because the iron is top shelf Tamura. Put in some 7n7's, better components and connectors, Stax transformers and bias circuit, a volume pot and it becomes a very versatile amp. There is even the 3+3w 2a3 version.

I'll definitely try and so how the backwave acts undamped. It's almost always there for a reason to tame some part of the sound spectrum but it's worth a shot.

I'm not hoping to find any spare drivers but they could, like Stax, have a large stock of earpads for the vintage models especially since they were intended for the pro market. I'll let you know if I find any and ff I find any NOS T-50's I'll drop you a line. Every ortho enthusiast should have at least one of these.

Btw. congrats on the Headphoneus Supremus title.

Edit: I've cleaned them throughly and while I had them open removed the damping pads. It's pretty clear after a few minutes why they were put there in the fist place or to tame a bit of very high HF nastiness. It's like a subtle etch or reverb but isn't doesn't bother me all that much. The rest is all very good news. They have a soundstage now, quite similar to a badly amped Stax SR-007, so it's like a piece of rope stretching from ear to ear slightly above the eyes. The midrange on the whole is improved with better vocals but there might be a few spots where it is recessed but it's too early to tell. The bass is vastly improved to say the least. While it doesn't really extend more, it gains a lot in bloom and presence. It's a bit anemic stock and I blamed it on the Corda Aria but it's clearly the damping that is at fault. I've been running some really nasty bass test tracks that I use on the elctrostats and the T-50 passed them with flying colors. They would even challenge the two Omegas with the right amp in bass presence but I doubt they could do the extension.

Only time will tell if the damping stays out or not but for the time being it's definitely out.
post #1018 of 23373
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by FooTemps View Post
For removing the pads without damaging them, just be ridiculously careful. Slowly peel them back...
Yes, just sloooowly push back with your thumbnail, as if you were pushing back one of your own cuticles. Try to take the adhesive with the earpad, as FooTemps said. It'll stick right back down as if you'd never been there. If you have no thumbnails and have to use some sort of tool, be careful you don't slip and tear an earpad or gouge the baffle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FooTemps
Another update on the YH-100 drivers. They're back in the stock configuration in the original housings and such.
FooTemps, are you considering the QP transplant of the YH-100 a mixed success? Let me suggest doing the Stage 1.5 mod on the existing enclosure; then you'll have something to compare any transplant against. Layer it like this: driver, 19mm reflex dot offset to the front, 55mm cheap acrylic felt disc, 55mm foil/plastic/whatever reflex disc (this could be a disc cut out of packing tape and stuck on the felt disc), 55mm firm opencell foam spring disc (~5mm thick), felt blanket covering the pivot mechanism (size not critical). Leave the vent damping strips in. If the bass is too lumpy, take 'em out, or, better, try some denser felt for the damping disc. If you go with the denser felt, you may not need the big reflex disc, which bumps the damping up as well as the treble. You may also want to go to a smaller dot.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Nagasaki_Kid View Post
My train of thought was to use some solvents(alcohol or nail polish remover) to weaken the glue but was afraid of damaging the leather.
Listen to that fear. Don't use solvents on the Orthodynamics! Keep in mind that the earpads are attached with doublesided sticky tape, not glue. You could, if you had to, slowly peel the whole earpad off and reattach it after you were done, but it's not necessary. Just push/peel back where the screws are.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post
I have a Audio Analogue doing Stax transformer duty and a vintage Kenwood KA-7100 in the next room.
Ah, the ever-faithful KA-7100. Perhaps not the cleanest amp ever built, but one with a lotta heart.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer View Post
Every ortho enthusiast should have at least one of these.
It was my fondest wish.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spritzer
Only time will tell if the damping stays out or not but for the time being it's definitely out.
Knowing how you prefer your SR-X, I'm not surprised. I can imagine that pulling out the damping pad would lower the resonant frequency a little and undamp the bass too, but having more backwave on the loose would make the earpad seal more critical. Do you find that to be the case?

Good luck on the earpads. Keep us informed..

.
post #1019 of 23373
While not really headphone related I picked up a pair of Monsoon multimedia speakers for free at a yard sale. I think I'm a confirmed planer-phile they have that nice fast sound and planer vocal "rightness" sound. Their not anything crazy special and they are just hooked up in conjunction with a pair of dynamic bookshelf speakers and a sub. They sound like they have potential but they are just too big to stick a head band on and make into a head-speaker. A head speaker was my first thought when I saw the Monsoons.

As far as cans go I've reduced the reflex dot on the Pro-30s and they sound a bit less hard. Over all I would say that removing the metal badge on them is a worthwhile mod, but seing that I have two pairs it's not a big risk. I think they even look kind of cool all black and sci-fi cool.

It's becoming more and more obvious that I need an amp with some balls or eggs that is headphone friendly. Kind of curious about the Yamaha amps that are labeled for use with orthodynamic use. My only concern is that they are vintage solid state and I still have a bit of a prejudice against for some reason. The Pro-30s are fine driven out of most things but a bit of extra juice would be cool. I'm thinking that if I found an amp that was capable of driving the AKG-340s well the Orthos would be served by that amp as well.

Waiting to see what comes from Hagerman, the Little Dot Tripath headphone amp and I have a feeling that RWA may be working on a headphone amp. I guess I'll just wait to see what comes out in the next little bit unless my patience gets the best of me and I pull the trigger on some random purchase.
post #1020 of 23373
Just wanted to let people know, since I've finished building it (electrically at least), the AMB Labs Mini3 v.2 pocket amp - in the gain=8, high performance configuration - does a Fine job of driving the HOK80-2.

Fed by the line-out jack on my iRiver H120, it goes all the way to Loud before clipping. You won't be able to blow your ears out, but you won't be dissatisfied by the fine punch of this eensy little amp.

With Sony pleather pads on the HOK, the driver sealed to the baffle with bluetak, and the baffle clip holes covered with electrical tape, I'm hearing plenty of bass, too, of the tight sort that the HOK gives you at least.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Headphones (full-size)
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphones (full-size) › Orthodynamic Roundup