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fidaudio 0404 adapter arrived - Page 3

post #31 of 73
OK got some more info from emails.

Jahn:
Quote:
I'm shooting in the dark too, but hearing how Fid-Audio is copper (my preferred cabling) but still tight and detailed (versus what you usually hear about copper, which is adding warmth) seemed like a good combo
this contrasts from comments by headphile:
"I use silver for I feel it's faster, more neutral and coherent compared to copper. I am not a fan of stranded copper at all, so I don't use it."

Basically the difference between the cables is fidaudio=copper versus headphile=silver, and the build quality

But the stock breakout is stranded copper and the fidaudio is stranded copper also, so is the difference between stock and fidaudio breakout mainly shielding?

As for Build material,
HEADPHILE:
Quote:
CPU Series are built to be very tough and functional, basic black and built like a tank. These have military grade, glued heatshinked boots on all jacks for maximum strength. From our experience behind computers, a wimpy cable is not an asset.


FIDAUDIO:
Quote:
professional quality RCA connectors.
post #32 of 73
You are clearly biased or have a very poor eye for quality. The fidaudio build quality in my opinion looks far superior in construction.

Fidaudio:


Headphile:


I have not actually seen the breakout in person but I have seen almost all of his other products in person and the build quality is very good. He seems to take the time to make sure everything is clean, neat and sturdy.

Just look at the two websites.
I know fidaudio is a little bit of a recent new-comer but in my opinion purely on build quality he does a far better job. (As a result they also look about 1000 times better. I know that sound quality is everything and have not tested headphiles cables, but aestheticly Fiddlers stuff is in a whole different ball park. Please note my comments are purely an unbiased reflection on build quality. I personally own neither.

As for your comment on glued heatshrinked boots it just means he has glue holding the heatshrink in place... Thats just a wordy way of saying his cables are too small and he needed to fill up the space so he used glue. and how in any way does that make fidaudios cables wimpy? They are much beefier.

ssingh0 you are either blind leading the stupid or just stupid leading the blind, either or using only the two pictures in this post most will agree with me. If you check out the images on the respective websites everyone can see that fids stuff is clearly better designed and fabricated as far as aesthetics and build quality.
post #33 of 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by Canadian Psycho
As for your comment on glued heatshrinked boots it just means he has glue holding the heatshrink in place... Thats just a wordy way of saying his cables are too small and he needed to fill up the space so he used glue. and how in any way does that make fidaudios cables wimpy? They are much beefier.
Actually CP, I have a feeling Larry may have been talking about adhesive-lined heatshrink, which is what I use. It does add some mechanical strength in many cases, so I do use it quite a bit.

ssingh0: I will be emailing you shortly regarding your inquiries.
post #34 of 73
Sorry, If thats the case I retract my comment. From his pics they just always look too small. Im just extremely anal about aesthetics so just based on that I would never buy anything from headphile as for me it is a necessity that my stuff looks good. If It doesnt but I need something I will modify it untill it is to my specefications. I was just really turned off imediately when I visited the headphile site. I assumed that people buy them based on sound quality only. I wouldnt think anyone would buy them based on aesthetics. they look poorly made. They probably wont fall apart but thats to be expected neither will just there is clearly a lack in attention to detail as far as build quality goes.
post #35 of 73
fiddler, can you explain why your site recommends 100+ hours of break in?

Component's breaking in makes sense to me, but a string of metal with a protective coating around it that's sole job is to provide accurate transmissions of current, breaking in? I just don't see the connection.
post #36 of 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erukian
fiddler, can you explain why your site recommends 100+ hours of break in?

Component's breaking in makes sense to me, but a string of metal with a protective coating around it that's sole job is to provide accurate transmissions of current, breaking in? I just don't see the connection.
First, you have to understand that the quality of the dielectric has a direct, noticeable impact on the sound. Poor dielectrics like PVC sound noticeably worse than better ones, and often have identifiable sonic faults. In the case of PVC, bloated mid-bass is a common trait. This is all related to the fact that all dielectrics absorb a certain amount of energy from conductor, and that some do it to a lesser extent or more linearly, which tends to be the case with better dielectrics.

What I found with my Con Brio cables is that, when the dielectric was "charged up" to a static, higher-than-audio-signal bias voltage, not only did the sound improve but the break-in time wasn't there, either. Actually, it still seems to take a day or two after plugging them in to the battery pack for them to fully adjust to the new voltage, but in this case they didnt' require playing any signal through them in order to break-in.

My point is that this seems to indicate that the "burn-in" phenomenon has much, if not mostly, to do with residual charges left in the dielectric after being jossled during assembly/shipping/etc. Most of my observations are drawn purely from qualititative judgments; please dont' ask for numbers and data, because I haven't got any.
post #37 of 73

FIDAudio, Jukebox etc

Hi,

Ordered my breakout today with the mini input. Does anyone know where I can get a good phono to din cable in UK for my Naim pre-amp.

Silverstone case should arrive tomorrow so jukebox build will start.

Regards

John
post #38 of 73
fiddler, from reading this.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dielectric
and this
http://whatis.techtarget.com/definit...211945,00.html

i get where your coming from, when it pertains to dielectrics. I guess it also explains why monster and some other speaker wire brands use "oxygen free" copper.

I'm wondering now what you use and how you use whatever it is you use

-Joe
post #39 of 73
I'd really like to be able to chime in with some opinions here but although I received the breakout cable a few weeks ago, I'm still waiting for the soundcard to be ordered.

Still, it looks nice.
post #40 of 73
buy a soldering iron and make your own

Quote:
Originally Posted by ssingh0
ok less cable is better makes sense,

but now which to choose headphile or fidaudio?
i doubt anyone will buy both and compare, so we are left to comparing parts and design theory.

FIDAUDIO:


HEADPHILE:


design philosophy:
FIDAUDIO:
..."creamy, smooth and rich. They have a nice musical flow"

HEADPHILE:

fidaudio seems to influence the sound/soundstage, whereas headphile seems to acknowledge the inherent problems and work against them. (of course saying this is really worthless as far as the reality of the comparative sound)

Total Cost (to US)
FIDAUDIO: 47 + 6 = 53
HEADPHILE: 50

Connector
FIDAUDIO: says it's a "top-quality gold-plated D-9 connector with a solid metal housing "
HEADPHILE: same gold plated, except hard plastic casing

Warranty
FIDAUDIO: 2 years
HEADPHILE: 1 year with proper care that includes not kinking, maintaining circumference greater than 3", etc.

Which to choose?
post #41 of 73
I missed this bit the first time around, but it's blatantly wrong so I have to comment:

Quote:
fidaudio seems to influence the sound/soundstage, whereas headphile seems to acknowledge the inherent problems and work against them. (of course saying this is really worthless as far as the reality of the comparative sound)
Where exactly are you getting this information? "Seems to influence"? Last time I checked, none of my design goals for a good cable included "influence the sound". You're spreading baseless, vapid speculation that means absolutely nothing.

Please, do us -- both Headphile and myself-- a favour, and order both our cables. We offer similar money-back trial-periods of a couple weeks. You can review the cables, post actual impressions based on some real, meaningful listening tests. Before then, posts like the above are totally unhelpful to both vendors and buyers (i.e. everybody).
post #42 of 73
I've seen some wrong things in this thread too. Fiddler and I both are supplying a quality product that the customers asked to be made available for the 0404. Since Fiddler adverstised them first, I held off for a few weeks out of courtesy to him.

We have different designs, which is good. That way the customer can decide what's right for them, instead of two identical products... a choice. One will be better for some, one will be better for others. These are time consuming to build, I think Fiddler would agree with that, so they are quite a value IMO.

If someone doesn't like the look (of either), that's fine, there are plenty that do or could care less, sound is the bottom line. Attention to detail is in the eye of the beholder, but build quality is not and I would say it's safe to say that neither of us skimp on that department. Thick or thin has nothing to do with quality, it's the basis of the design that warrants the thickness of any given cable.

I'm sure Fiddler has a good ear as a musician, I can speak from experience. I have been one for close to 30 years and had a modest recording studio for about half that time. You really learn how to listen very critically.

Cheers to most all... Larry
post #43 of 73
sorry I appologize xanadu. I realize that your cables have the goal of superior sound with that said aesthetics are a biproduct that may be important to some or not important at all to others. I assumed that your marketing was just that great sound, whats under the hood is what matters. Thats a fine position to take. Aesthetics is clearly one of fiddlers perks in the differences that you two have you said that you give the public different options. Just as copper and silver produce different sound qualities people may be inclined to goto his product for the look or vise versa to yours because they dont care and want silver or some other feature that divides you. Any indication of a lack in quality is unfounded, you both have warantees. Best of luck to you both.
post #44 of 73
Wow both fiddler and xanadu777 came into the thread - man i missed alot! i look forward to seeing the fid-audio breakout land on my shores - it would be my first product from them, and i'm sure it's an upgrade from my starquad (i'll compare them quickly just to be sure lol). patience is a virtue!
post #45 of 73
Thread Starter 
boy... i've had one of the nicest listenings over the last few hours with the 0404 breakout ics. for burn-in i connected them to the ppa (who needed some burnin too after opamp rolling) over the last days, but left the phones unplugged most of the time (100ohm dummy load). today i re-plugged the wna ha and after a few minutes decided to give the dt880 another try.

i don't know why, but there seems to be more well articulated bass extension using the ic in comparison to the adapter+cantus. i said "well articulated" to distinguish it from the muddy middle-bass you'll get using the stock breakout. in addition the sound seems to be more "black", there's more silence between the notes. the shielding is perfect in every respect: i have lots of cables and adapters directly next to the e-mu out... no problems (but to be honest: i never had interference or any noise-problems with the e-mu at all). well... i can't imagine to press more out of the 0404 soundwise. recommended add-on... thumbs up!

unfortunately mine is too short (0,5m) to use it comfortably. i'll return it and hold the adapter.
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