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working mint stopped working when cased up - Page 2

post #16 of 20
2/3/05 at 7:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Edwood
LOL, we do have a TLE frying expert here.

I haven't fried one yet. *knock on wood* (Not the R10's, though.)
-Ed
Let's put it this way; I've cooked so many rail splitters in this PIMETA, that the TLE pads on the board are gacked up so badly I couldn't get them unblocked, so I had to trace the traces (lol) and wire the TLE to the next available pads on the same traces, which basically means the wires are soldered to the leads of other components. Messy, but effective.
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post #17 of 20
2/3/05 at 7:55am
I fried the rail splitter on my PIMETA once by using a dc connector that I thought would be isolated ... but with the plug plugged in it shorted V- to case, case was bound to virtual ground ... the brave TLE fought nearly one hour before resigning with smoke signals ... taking along a voltage regulator on it's way ...

lesson learned: even when the amp works and sounds good this doesn't necessarily mean that everything is all right :/ it is difficult to find such bugs
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post #18 of 20
2/3/05 at 11:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by miketriple
<snip>
my op-amp isn't bad, but maybe i fried it. if it was fried, though, would i get great sound in the left ear?
Yes, you would get fine sound in one channel. When I recased my MINT, I somehow fried one channel of the AD8620 with no sparks (to my knowledge), so blowing one chanel of the opamp while the other one works perfectly is very feasible.

Sounds like with the hot battery, you have some other issues to attend to first (and I would fix that first before I put in another opamp). I put an OPA2134 then an OPA2227 in before risking another expensive AD8620 in mine. Its doing fine now. I still have a number of cheaper opamps in SOIC packaging if you need one.

Chris
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post #19 of 20
2/3/05 at 12:07pm
Thread Starter 
i have another opa2132 and opa227 on their way. also more buf634s. whatever's broken can get replaced, and the leftovers go to the next project

the battery thing was probably just due to me moving crap all over the place trying to find out what was wrong. eventually the wires, which weren't isolated in heatshrink, connected, i'm sure. after it cooled, it read 8.48v, so it was fine.

everything should get here this weekend, which is great. i won't get a chance to do anything til then anyway.


another question, though: what is could cause dc offset in the nonworking channel? could that symptom be related to a fried opamp?

thanks for all of the tips and info!
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post #20 of 20
2/3/05 at 12:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by miketriple
another question, though: what is could cause dc offset in the nonworking channel? could that symptom be related to a fried opamp?
definitely
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