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working mint stopped working when cased up

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 
okay, so i had to borrow a drill from a friend, so my mint amp was just hanging out on the helping hands for a week or so. it worked perfectly! i drilled the holes and filled the altoids tin up, and suddenly only the right channel worked. i pulled it out a bit and saw where i thought the output wires may be touching, so i fixed that. then only the left channel works! i just resoldered the input and outputs to the board, which is a pain, because i already split the pcb in half and reattached the +,-,l,r,g.

could shorting out one of the channel have damaged part of the amp? i've checked 10 times over and don't see anything touching where it shouldn't, both the solder jobs and the tiny bits of stripped wire down by the board. it all looks clean.

would pics or meter readings help diagnose this? what parts? thanks for the help.
post #2 of 20
are the jacks you have used isolated ones? or does metal of the jack touch the metal of the case?
post #3 of 20
Thread Starter 
the outside part of the jack, where the nut tightens, is metal.

i took it completely out again, though. it's still only in the left channel. i'm afraid that maybe something shorted when i put it in the case, and now part of it is fried?
post #4 of 20
Is it absolutely no sound from one channel, or just really weak distorted sound in one, and OK sound from the other?

Most likely, you've fried your TLE Rail splitter.

-Ed
post #5 of 20
Thread Starter 
great sound in one chan and no sound at all in the other. which symptom corresponds to a fried rail splitter? ill try testing that, thanks

also, i accidentally fried my led while testing a few things (though i'm quite clueless as to what i was testing lol). touched one of the led legs to one of the legs of the crowbar diode. think that diode could be fried? i'm going to be ordering stuff soon, so just thought i'd check if its a possibility
post #6 of 20
Thread Starter 
well, the voltage from the rail splitter to the +/- of each chip is fine.

i found something pretty strange.. the voltage from the output's ground to the output's left channel is .001v, while the output's right channel is .666v

i think it's possessed :S any idea what that means? between the output ground and output's broken channel is a lot more voltage that with the working one..
post #7 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by miketriple
well, the voltage from the rail splitter to the +/- of each chip is fine.

i found something pretty strange.. the voltage from the output's ground to the output's left channel is .001v, while the output's right channel is .666v

i think it's possessed :S any idea what that means? between the output ground and output's broken channel is a lot more voltage that with the working one..
That is your DC offset, and that high of voltage on the right channel, which is the nonworking channel, indicates a problem (left channel offset is fine). Look everything over for stray wires, etc. If you don't find anything there, you can eliminate the buffer on that channel by tack soldering a jumper from its input to output (check the datasheet for pin numbers). If that doesn't do it, then your op amp is probably fried. If jumpering does do it, that buffer is fried. Its doubtful that you damaged the crowbar diode (problems would be power related if you did).

hth
Chris
post #8 of 20
Is it working yet? Check to make sure the two halve aren't touching somewhere. That might explain your strange readings. (0.666V). And if they even did temporarily, something could be blown.
Get the datasheet out, and check to see that the chips are getting power and signal. Also Try bypassing the Buffer (as suggested by pars) on the bad channel to see if that fixes anything.

Good Luck
post #9 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Edwood
Is it absolutely no sound from one channel, or just really weak distorted sound in one, and OK sound from the other?

Most likely, you've fried your TLE Rail splitter.

-Ed
Rail splitters fry in a pretty spectacular manner. I know, I've fried three of them before I figured out that my power jack had to be isolated from the case. >.>; Smoke, loads of heat, the last one I fried pretty much exploded (was in cracked pieces on the amp board).

My best guess is that you've got a bad opamp. In my first PIMETA, the OPA2227 I used, I accidentally let the soldering iron touch it for a few seconds without noticing, later when testing it for the first time, the offset currents resembled yours (although I'm not sure if it produced sound or not, since I was not yet to the "plug headphones in" test part).
post #10 of 20
Thread Starter 
thanks for the responses.

my op-amp isn't bad, but maybe i fried it. if it was fried, though, would i get great sound in the left ear? it sounds like it did before i cased it up, just in 1 ear. it did work perfectly (sounded great! no static or anything, and really improved the sound with my e3cs). i think that what happened was some of the jack wires touched or something as i put it in the case. i blew a power cap on my cmoy, and it exploded with a loud pop.. didn't hear anything like that. no weird noises at all. no smells or lights, either, except when i accidentally connected the led to the crowbar with my meter probes, which kinda sparked for a sec until the led died.

i didn't see any stray wires or solder bridges. the wires are a little too stripped (need to get some smaller heat shrink, since i switched to cat5 hookups), so some were bare and must've touched when i was moving the jacks to the holes in the case. that's fixed, though, so nothing touches. i resoldered them and they're fine. also, i have a piece of tangent's teflon between the two halves, so nothing should be touching there. it worked just fine right after i put the two halves together and connected them.

any other guesses as to what could get fried by i/o jack wires touching? i'll get out my meter and check that stuff as soon as my boy goes to sleep.

would pics of any particular areas help?

"check to see that the chips are getting power and signal"
-the v+/- for each chip was fine. can't remember what the numbers were.. i think around 4 or so. the batteries are slightly drained, so..
post #11 of 20
Thread Starter 
wow i just hooked up the batteries and was going to test it when i noticed one battery was VERY hot. it also measured only ~7.5v while the other, which has identical usage times, measures ~8.5v. it wasn't even turned on yet, but one was burning up and the other one was nice and cool. think my wires are touching down near the board? yet another problem. boo. i may wait for smaller heat shrink tubes to do this job a bit more cleanly time to take the two halves apart.
post #12 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by aeriyn
Rail splitters fry in a pretty spectacular manner. I know, I've fried three of them before I figured out that my power jack had to be isolated from the case. >.>; Smoke, loads of heat, the last one I fried pretty much exploded (was in cracked pieces on the amp board).

My best guess is that you've got a bad opamp. In my first PIMETA, the OPA2227 I used, I accidentally let the soldering iron touch it for a few seconds without noticing, later when testing it for the first time, the offset currents resembled yours (although I'm not sure if it produced sound or not, since I was not yet to the "plug headphones in" test part).
LOL, we do have a TLE frying expert here.

I haven't fried one yet. *knock on wood* (Not the R10's, though.)
-Ed
post #13 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by miketriple
wow i just hooked up the batteries and was going to test it when i noticed one battery was VERY hot. it
One possible problem is that the batteries could be hooked up wrong. Check the connector of the hot one with an ohm meter. Disconnect the battery and check the resistence between the + and - terminals. If it's ~0ohm, you'll need to rewire.

The pads on the board are:

[M-][SW]
[M+][SW]
[V+]
[V-]

The M pads are the Mid battery pads. So you hooks Battery1 to V- and M+, and battery 2 to V+ and M-. If you hook Batter1 to V- and V+, and Battery2 to M- and M+, Battery2 will get hot. Otherwise, something might be touching between the boards. Use and ohm meter and try to find out what. If its making a battery hot, it has to have something to do with V+ shorting to V-.
Good luck...
post #14 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by miketriple
wow i just hooked up the batteries and was going to test it when i noticed one battery was VERY hot. it also measured only ~7.5v while the other, which has identical usage times, measures ~8.5v. it wasn't even turned on yet, but one was burning up and the other one was nice and cool. think my wires are touching down near the board? yet another problem. boo. i may wait for smaller heat shrink tubes to do this job a bit more cleanly time to take the two halves apart.
Sounds like you're shorting one of the batteries. Check connections... if a bad batch of battery gets shorted out, it might explode
post #15 of 20
Thread Starter 
yeah, i figured i was shorting a battery. i know what the pads are.. i have the gerber files to guide me, as i can't really see all of the silkscreen when the wires are setup.

unfortunately, i didn't get a chance to work on it today. and i won't til the weekend i'm hoping that it'll get straightened out by next week.
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