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Build your own high quality CD player - Page 3  

post #31 of 92
update on project please!
post #32 of 92
Thread Starter 
Only update is that I have a bad shunt regulator in one of my DAC power supplies, and a replacement will probably be here sometime this evening. Beyond that, the weight of my last semester in grad school is slowing the update process.
post #33 of 92
Thread Starter 

Ze big black box...she is...alive!!



post #34 of 92
Beautiful she ain't

But hows the sound??
post #35 of 92
Thread Starter 
Nope, but I like the stark industrial look.

Sounds good so far, though all I have it hooked up to is my home receiver. Not that it's a lacking piece of equipment, and it certainly does sound good through the speakers.

Given that this is the first time it's really been turned on and processing sound, I'm not going to give any impressions until I let it burn in a bit. And by a bit, I mean a couple weeks.
post #36 of 92
Keep us posted please.

I'm building the same Pedja dac. I just received the 1541a and 8412 chips, now to get the other parts...
post #37 of 92
Jason, you know that they sell CD players that are already built... right?
post #38 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by Born2bwire
Jason, you know that they sell CD players that are already built... right?
where's the fun in that?
post #39 of 92
Thread Starter 
Another quickie update. Got around to doing a few measurements on the AC hum, and measured it at -87.9dB. Haven't the slightest idea how bad this is (my guess is that it's not that good), but either way it can't be heard at normal listening levels with my speaker setup, so I'm going to put that issue on the back burner for the time being.

Next step is deciding whether to leave it as is for the time being or putz around with a reclocking circuit. Have a reclocker for the transport 80% completed (Elso Kwak's "Kwak Clock" which can be found on diyaudio.com), which I might then also use to feed the 1541A. The standard clock on the CD-Pro2M is an 8MHz SMD oscillator, which I'd have to desolder (along with two associated capacitors) and then mount on the separate clock circuit. The issue is more whether I can supply the clock with one of the transformers I have in there right now, because I don't have room for another transformer on the bottom level (the Dynahi tranny isn't even in there yet). For that matter, the desoldering part might be even more of a pain, considering I have nothing that wouldn't either fry the oscillator or the entire transport itself.

So much I could do.
post #40 of 92
Thread Starter 
And now, rising from the dead...

Had the luck to be able to work on my CD player as part of a project for a lab class at UIUC (Physics of Music, kiddies -- UIUC Head-Fiers need to take it). The last class is Tuesday, and thus I have to present the finished product then, so hypothetically the second revision (perhaps sans reclocking) will be complete by then. The first post in this thread will be updated with a full writeup by the 13th, which is when the final report is due. Comments and suggestions are welcome, as always. Oh, and if someone could give me a quick idea of how to give the Dynahi preamp capability, let me know. I think I know how to do it using a switch between the headphone and preamp out, but can both be in use simultaneously?

The concept this time around is separate, low-profile enclosures for both the power box and signal box. Both cases are Lansing Enclosures, one rackmount-unit thickness each (about 1 3/4"). Combined height will be approximately four inches total, barring considerations for a lid.



Center is the transport, left the DAC, right the Dynahi boards. The only AC in this box passes along the left side of the chassis to the DAC board and transport power supplies on the bottom left. +5V for transport is still a Jung regulator, +9V is an LM317 unit because I found that I couldn't hear a major difference with the two supplies (I could with the +5V, though). At no point does a signal wire (digital or analog) cross paths with a power wire (AC or DC). Using a spring suspension this time around. Current problem is that the transport sits too high in the box, which means I either need to shave down the feet or cut out a larger hole in the cover to allow the whole of the transport to sit outside the box rather than just the upper black frame section. Probably going to go with the latter.



Dynahi amp boards -- went all-out (probably overboard) on resistors here, IRCs for general resistors and Rikens for output resistors. Boards are currently pulling 800mA each, might want to change the 100 ohm resistor in the VAS stage to lower this if heat becomes a big problem. Heatsinks are optimally placed close to the vented side of the enclosure, and if necessary I might add a small, quiet fan in the back to circulate air.



Dynahi power board, which is in the box with the transformers. Voltage out from this goes about eight inches to the back of the power box without passing any AC lines. I'm using two separate Amphenol connector sets on the left and right, left for AC, right for the Dynahi DC and CD player control.

Oy. Much left to do.
post #41 of 92
Wow, I like the new configuration alot more.

Your previous one reminded me of a MythBuster's episode of the exploding CD's, where they rigged a router to spin CD's at insane RPM's.

What is the dimension, front to back for that Lansing case?

Is the CD going to be exposed, or will you have a nice glass door or something for the top?

-Ed
post #42 of 92
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Edwood
What is the dimension, front to back for that Lansing case?

Is the CD going to be exposed, or will you have a nice glass door or something for the top?
The Lansing case is 14" deep, and as to the cover I'm not quite sure yet. I know I want to have some sort of top for it, but I'm not certain what yet. I'm thinking about buying the top cover of a Technics 1200 turntable and butchering it for this one bubble part that is almost exactly the right size for a CD.
post #43 of 92
I love it and cant wait to see the finished product. Must be nice for the end to finally be in sight.
post #44 of 92
Are those 4700uf/63v panasonics in the gilmore PS? I'm looking for low-profile ones.
post #45 of 92
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by walangalam
Are those 4700uf/63v panasonics in the gilmore PS? I'm looking for low-profile ones.
They're Cornell-Dubilier 63V, 4700uF electrolytics, available from Mouser -- 5985-85-63V4700.

And to clarify, the metal bracket on the PSU is not the only heatsink -- I need to buy another to attach to this board.
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