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Posts by HiGHFLYiN9

If you replaced the cable it's most likely the driver. Go ahead and send to Grado, they are timely with their repairs and not too expensive. Since the drivers are matched from the factory, the levels might be a little off if you replace with another random driver. 
Tkim all your sizes are spot on. Those are the exact sizes I use when building most headphone cables.    As CFCubed mentioned, securing the cable is pretty important. I like to use the exact amount of heatshrink so the cable is firmly in place in the hole in the cup. I then use two small zip ties so the ends are on each side. I then use hot glue (just like Grado) to secure the cable in place, however it is removable if need be.    Be quick when soldering the solder...
 Beautiful! Very nice interior layout. 45s are a very special tube, are they not? :) 
I'm hoping to be able to join you guys! I'd really like to show off the Bottlehead Crack Coppermine edition, as well as my pair of heavily modded T50RPs, some Trebuchet cables, and whatever else I can fit in a backpack.   
Tom you summed it up pretty well. Radio Shack had (generally) lower quality parts at higher prices than places like Mouser and Digikey. It was hard to find a reason to go, unless you needed an obscure battery or you needed a resistor or switch that very day. Tools and general goods were all overpriced, $40 HDMI cables and $20 plastic solder suckers, it's hard to imagine that inventory turning very fast.    I was, however, able to take advantage of the closing, I got...
Yes indeed! I got a good 30-40 feet of it when Soniccraft had it on clearance. Great for internal wiring whenever a shield is needed. Takes a little bit of effort to prepare with the layers of tape to remove and the enamel to burn off, but totally worth it. 
Thanks! The big Jupiter caps replace the stock Dayton audio film caps, which are made by Bennic and a very nice value, but not the end-all be-all audiophile capacitor. 
Bottlehead Mainline headphone amplifier with powder-coated top plate, Jupiter caps, Cardas wire, copperleaf wood base.     
Did you keep the other end? Check it with a multimeter to see which color goes to tip, ring, etc. If you don't have a multimeter, here's one for $7.50 that does the job:   (no affiliation to Beezar)
I use thicker enameled copper magnet wire for ground bus wire on occasion, so I suppose it could work for that, however I don't think it would be possible to heat up a joint hot enough with a soldering iron to get anything to stick to a bar that thick.     If you use it for signal wire, you'd run a risk of picking up EMI/RFI or flux interaction from transformers. 
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