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Posts by HiGHFLYiN9

 Sure, always wise to get the electrolytic caps out of the signal if you have the money to do so. You could also incorporate CCS to bump up the sound quality. The OTLs tend to get along well with high impedance cans like Beyers with 250ohms and Sennheiser with 300ohms, but xformer coupled outputs will always be better for lower impedance or more power hungry cans.  
Why not this one: http://headwize.com/?page_id=427
Hi there Oregonian, I'm afraid these have been traded. The comfort is very nice on the CD3000s in my opinion, and there is less quantity of bass than the D7000. 
Yes, there are plenty of people who have 3d printed headphone cups, especially for the T50RP.
Nope, people do it every day. See DIYAudio.com. It doesn't get much more simple than the Bottlehead Crack, or this nice design http://headwize.com/?page_id=427   Both will work well with the 650s    Please read this before you get started: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/30172-safety-practices-general-ultra-high-voltage.html
It wouldn't really matter with most things you are mounting to a chassis as you have the red/white washers with the RCAs, the locknut with the power switch, etc. which cover up things like that if you are drilling really thick metal. But sure, you can use a straight bit too. I use a set of Cobalt Dewalt bits for chassis work, they hold up to abuse a little better than standard bits.      Mr X thanks for the disc recommendation. I saw that it doesn't use the proprietary...
 That's exactly what I do, measure the IEC (or use the data sheet), mark up the hole with a sharpie, drill the corners with a drill press, then using a dremel cutting disc to remove the square, then a flat file to finish it off. Then lay it in, and mark the screw holes with a sharpie. If you're rich, you can buy a GreenLee IEC punch for a mere $300.  Regarding the holes for the standoffs, yes that's the best way to do it. One thing you should get is a deburring tool...
I'f you're considering the HD800 connectors, I'd say look elsewhere first. The pins are minuscule and simply look fragile, at least from the variety of connectors I've used. The Furutech is the best of the bunch, but at $100 a pair. Even if you went for the lowest cost providers on ebay for a set of generic female and male connectors, you're looking at ~$90. 
As I was very curious what was inside, I found the HOT device was discussed at length in another thread: http://www.head-fi.org/t/741043/some-hot-science-from-synergistic-research. Apparently silicon dioxide is the only component inside that affects sound. 
I owned the original Hakko 936ESD and was very pleased with it. I used it several times a weeks for years with no reliability issues. I'm now using the big brother of the FX-888, the FX-951 (again, over the course of years), with great results. Hakko is a staple brand in the low to mid-level solder station market, like MetCal is in the higher-end. The FX-888 is more than good enough to handle any Bottlehead assembly.   The Solderwerks station looks very nice, though I've...
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