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Posts by HiGHFLYiN9

Hi there Oregonian, I'm afraid these have been traded. The comfort is very nice on the CD3000s in my opinion, and there is less quantity of bass than the D7000. 
Yes, there are plenty of people who have 3d printed headphone cups, especially for the T50RP.
Nope, people do it every day. See DIYAudio.com. It doesn't get much more simple than the Bottlehead Crack, or this nice design http://headwize.com/?page_id=427   Both will work well with the 650s    Please read this before you get started: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/30172-safety-practices-general-ultra-high-voltage.html
It wouldn't really matter with most things you are mounting to a chassis as you have the red/white washers with the RCAs, the locknut with the power switch, etc. which cover up things like that if you are drilling really thick metal. But sure, you can use a straight bit too. I use a set of Cobalt Dewalt bits for chassis work, they hold up to abuse a little better than standard bits.      Mr X thanks for the disc recommendation. I saw that it doesn't use the proprietary...
 That's exactly what I do, measure the IEC (or use the data sheet), mark up the hole with a sharpie, drill the corners with a drill press, then using a dremel cutting disc to remove the square, then a flat file to finish it off. Then lay it in, and mark the screw holes with a sharpie. If you're rich, you can buy a GreenLee IEC punch for a mere $300.  Regarding the holes for the standoffs, yes that's the best way to do it. One thing you should get is a deburring tool...
I'f you're considering the HD800 connectors, I'd say look elsewhere first. The pins are minuscule and simply look fragile, at least from the variety of connectors I've used. The Furutech is the best of the bunch, but at $100 a pair. Even if you went for the lowest cost providers on ebay for a set of generic female and male connectors, you're looking at ~$90. 
As I was very curious what was inside, I found the HOT device was discussed at length in another thread: http://www.head-fi.org/t/741043/some-hot-science-from-synergistic-research. Apparently silicon dioxide is the only component inside that affects sound. 
I owned the original Hakko 936ESD and was very pleased with it. I used it several times a weeks for years with no reliability issues. I'm now using the big brother of the FX-888, the FX-951 (again, over the course of years), with great results. Hakko is a staple brand in the low to mid-level solder station market, like MetCal is in the higher-end. The FX-888 is more than good enough to handle any Bottlehead assembly.   The Solderwerks station looks very nice, though I've...
Just started an impressions thread over here to continue the discussion: http://www.head-fi.org/t/762780/dc-area-head-fi-meet-impressions-george-mason-library-4-12-15
I wanted to kick off the meet impressions thread. It was a great time for sure, and I enjoyed meeting all the new faces. Thanks Barry for organizing, it's a very nice room for a meet, especially considering it's gratis.    I think the real star of the meet for me was the Audeze closed back EL-8. From the sound that headphone provides, they could EASILY charge twice the price (although it might need more wood/leather adornments). I think I've found the new reference...
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