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Posts by bada bing

   Actually, this is a bit confusing. The O2 has very unusual clipping behavior and clips *only* based on the level of the input. The O2's volume control has no effect at all on clipping behavior. The 7v / the output voltage level of the source is a useful rule of thumb, but brings up a consequence of the clipping behavior - the maximum power output is produced without clipping at only one input level. You can not adjust the O2 to maximum power output below clipping by...
Very nice review, but it may cause some unintended spending on my part. Thanks very much for taking the time to post it up, it's useful. I currently use a x-sabre > GS-XmkII > HD800 as my dynamic set up. I'd be curious on the opinions of the three amps driving HD650 and using classical material. I've been enjoying the GS-X for several months now, but I think it does it's most impressive work with the HD650 and with naturally miked material. I have heard the same treble...
Class A means the output transistors are biased "on" with a set bias current whenever the amp is on, even when there is no input signal. The GS-X will use about the same power and generate the same heat regardless of load *until* it is pushed hard enough to fall out of Class A. Falling out of Class A means when the current demands of the headphone load exceed the steady state bias. I don't know if the HE6 is inefficient enough to take enough power at sane listening levels...
 That power supply is AC input, 16V DC output. According to the online specs:Input: 120V AC 60Hz 17W Output: 16V DC 750mAThat won't work at all for the O2. It requires an AC output to the O2. ~16VAC give or take.
I'm finishing up a SUSY dynahi and SUSY dynalo. I bought the dynahi boards from a lil knight group buy and I had the dynalo boards made from the publicly available gerbers by Seeed studio. I wouldn't hesitate to order from Seeed again for any design with gerbers available, like the dynahi. All the components for the SUSY dynahi/dynalo are currently readily available. The older original designs are the ones spec'd with out of production parts. It'll be a few weeks before...
I'm currently using X-sabre > GS-1 > HD800 until my GS-X arrives (hopefully next week or two). Out of the set-ups I've heard the HD-800, that's my favorite.I haven't seen one offered used in a while, but a G-lite or a good DIY dynalo can be had sometimes for cheap and can drive the HD800 well. There is something special about the dynalo topology.
Any updates ?      
Chicago Can-Jam, maybe the last real Can-Jam ? Hope not. I got to listen to KG's T2 at the Chicago CJ. I still wonder if I heard what I think I heard; the best amp + headphone combo I've ever heard or ever will hear. There is something to the T2 that is just a touch more than the BHSE. The image is even more solid on the T2.   I followed the DIY T2 thread and almost wished I'd bought in. I know it would have very likely ended in some very expensive smoke.
 Now that is interesting I've seen your results in the doodlebug thread for the PuPdac without the doodlebug.Did you happen to run the ODAC without the doodlebug? I had made an assumptionthat the ODAC might benefit from the doodlebug more than the PuPdac in a typicalsetup because the ODAC seems to be light on power rail filtering at first glance.  I wouldn't want to stir up a hornet's nest, but that is interesting.
JVC HZ-FXD70     Audio Technica ATH-CKM500   I actually own both of these and I get pretty regular use out of them in spite of owning more expensive stuff. Both are on the bassy side of neutral and have very good resolution, headstage and blackspace around instruments. Both have huge dedicated threads at head-fi with lots of banter about strengths/weaknesses. Both are older designs by major Japanese audio companies and are selling pretty far below their introduction...
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