or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:

Posts by tangent

 Nope. It appears that Panasonic have completely discontinued film-and-foil caps, now offering only metalized film. Metalized polypropylene isn't bad, just not the best. If you don't mind, then use the parametric search to find a cap with the correct lead spacing. That's the biggest incompatibility. If you want the best, then you will find threads and threads full of capacitor recommendations here.
 Yes, RN55D-F series.  Which also answers your other question about them. Note that the LED resistor is a cheap 5% carbon...no point using anything better here.  All of the caps I didn't bother to provide a voltage for are in the audio signal path, so you basically cannot buy caps with voltage too low to work, if you stick to high-quality film types, as you should, so there's no point specifying it. Basically, buy the smallest voltage value you can get away with. These are...
 Then you should be able to prove it with a reproducible test. Science is hard, but we've had several hundred years of practice doing it well, so we have a whole list of things required to pull off a good test of this sort: Specify the products to be tested precisely, so that others can build or buy identical replacements, within a reasonable amount of measurement error. Specify those measurement bounds. Example: Cable A shall be made of 6.0 feet of such-and-such cable...
Here's a populated Hansen board:     And here are the part values I used:     For the most part, any experience you have with similar amps tells you how to build this. It's basically a glorified CMoy pocket amp with a buffered crossfeed circuit built in.   The only tricky bit is the crossfeed switch.   As I recall, it's a 4P3T rotary switch with the fourth pole unused. Think of it as 4 quarters. The unused fourth quarter is the one pointing downward in the...
Yes, that appears to be the case. So, 100× too small.
 .233 what? Picofarads? Megafarads? Always give units. .233 is also probably the wrong value, since that is not one of the common capacitor values. You could have one custom-made, but off the shelf? No. It's also not likely to be a capacitance value code, since that would mean "23" for the significant digits and "3" encoding the decimal position, but again, "23" is not a typical 2-significant-digit capacitor value. "22" is, which means the code might be "223", which in...
 Those input caps you've got there don't look any bigger than 0.1 µF. The originals are 0.22 µF, and that's on the small side, IMHO. I'd like to see 0.47 to 1.0 µF here. If you have more of those caps, you can simply solder-tack another one or two in parallel with the ones you already have. If that improves things, you've got your culprit. Otherwise, much of my troubleshooting guide is just as relevant to this amp as it is for the amps discussed elsewhere on my site. Post...
 ...or if it is, I want to know how you got the solder to 1,749°C.  
 That's the first question in my CMoy Pocket Amplifier tutorial FAQ:  My guide is about 15 years old now, and the original project even older, and my guide has received many updates over that time. You should therefore start with the assumption that your question has already been answered in the guide or on the forums.
Teflon-insulated wire is pretty stiff, in my experience. The primary tradeoff is that it's much tougher than PVC.   Teflon is also "marine grade" in terms of waterproofing, though that's only likely to matter if you live near the ocean and find that salt in the air keeps corroding the copper in the wiring.   Two Teflon-coated wires right next to each other (i.e. a stereo pair in a cable) also make a much lower value capacitor than having two PVC-coated wires with the...
New Posts  All Forums: