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Posts by cfcubed

Thank you for the detailed info and impressions and its nice that it was worth the effort of doing. A picture might be nice too but maybe its not too pretty:) Sometimes that keeps me from posting them. I guess if one was so motivated they could make a really compact CTH going to SMD and supporting submini tubes. Would be lots of effort tho and you'd still need the A/C adapter.
Had to go back in my archives for this one:)   First off I suppose your CTH has a regular 9-pin socket installed....  So maybe use a "9 PIN TUBE SOCKET SAVER FOR 12AX7" or "9 pin Machine made tube socket 12AX7" (w/o center pin) from fleabay to wire the pencil tube into so it can be inserted in CTH 9-pin socket.   Attaching my chicken-scratch sheets from when used 6N16B (6.3v heater) in the proto, to help you map its pinout.  Yes leave pin 9...
Sorry I did not mean to offend, sounds good - an O2 build is a good warm-up:)   Good to confirm any questionable sub parts as you are doing.  But concentrate on Description field value in CTH XLS BoM when an exact part # is not available from your source(s).  E.g. in the Digikey BC550CGOS-ND EOL case see they suggest BC547C as direct substitute but would first search for sub using "BC550C" (from Description).
No, use the base part & classes specified (e.g. BC550 - class C).  E.g. in the case you ask about either BC550CTA (ammo/tape) or BC550CBU (bulk/loose).   Curious, how many builds do you have under your belt?   The CTH is an intermediate level build, *lots* of parts in a tiny space, and misplacement / misalignment of any can ruin your day.  IOW IMO would not recommend CTH as a first project.
R4H & R5H are resistors you'd only purchase & use if you wanted to support more than (popular) 12.6v & 6.3v heated tubes.  Most builders use a SPDT toggle 12.6v/6.3v (thus not needing R4H & R5H).  See also: http://cavalliaudio.com/diy/cth/main.php?page=schematics/psschematic
Agreed... That's what I meant in the post I linked to, that TI's TL08xCPs are suitable subs for STMicro TL08xCNs part #s in the BoM. Part #s in BoM XLS are/were for ordering convenience of parts from Description field (e.g. TL081, TL082, etc).
A post I made about TL08X alternatives:  http://www.head-fi.org/t/398839/a-very-compact-hybrid-amp/2205#post_11422879   For the cap(s) bet a search for "Aluminum Electrolytic 10uF 10volt" or similar would turn up some (16 volt is OK too of course).  Nothing special about C1L & C1R but (try to) match the lead spacing & watch the diameter for fitment.
Not a cable guy myself but a couple thoughts/opinions FWIW: *  ebay & elsewhere have nice plastic pieces for Y coupler *  secure the wire within the ear cup well.  I used a zip tie in the repair I did on mine.  Rising from a chair with headphones on while stepping on their cable has been known to happen:) *  would re-consider the Nylon Filament tubing or any full wraps on Mogami wires...  I found they add stiffness & curling properties to otherwise nice cables and...
Not a mod but a fix, did a quick search & didn't see any photos of this.   Got these years ago for a good deal because of loose/intermittent connection in one of the cups.  While expanding the C retainer to perform the fix it snapped (of course:) where the plastic side pin is. Used a miter saw with a fine blade to carefully(!) trim a slice off a 2" PVC coupler (using gloves, glasses, holding PVC w/vice-grip etc.), filed the piece & used old black screws from screw jar to...
AFAIK there's nothing special about the TL081s & TL082s as used in CTH circuits & they don't lie in the (direct) audio signal path, e.g. TI & other makers of that spec would be fine.  Think BB OPA134s & OPA2134s are also good if pricier substitutes (IIRC they are what I happened to use in CTH's 1st breadboard proto).    Otherwise sticking with (J)FET input stage opamps, with same/"standard" pin-out, and comparable datasheets should ID others. BTW *if* RS keeps any stores...
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