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Posts by cfcubed

The repaired indicated in the other forum that he did suggest raising the resistor values.   So it appears it may have went sort of like this:   BTW should correct my statement:  All β22s that have passed my way have 1R R34s & R35s.  Did this even to a 4-channel/balanced build I sold because IIRC when the guy came to try it out / buy it his headphone XLR jack & wire looked wonky.   When I asked he said it did had issue whens wiggling.  This issue was it was...
Posted the below at the other forums you posted this plea to.   Again I'm way too backlogged with work to take this on, but between you wanting it re-cased & it now needing work IMO may be best to sell it off.   This is always disappointing to see because its so avoidable.  Besides lowering volume whenever inserting/removing cans & following proper pwr-on/pwr-off order there's something else that should be done & should be well-known to those working on TRS jack...
Thanks for the post rds, good to hear your CTH is still serving you well.  Though I listen mostly to speakers these days, I do rotate a CTH in every now & then when using cans & still enjoy it.
Thank you for the detailed info and impressions and its nice that it was worth the effort of doing. A picture might be nice too but maybe its not too pretty:) Sometimes that keeps me from posting them. I guess if one was so motivated they could make a really compact CTH going to SMD and supporting submini tubes. Would be lots of effort tho and you'd still need the A/C adapter.
Had to go back in my archives for this one:)   First off I suppose your CTH has a regular 9-pin socket installed....  So maybe use a "9 PIN TUBE SOCKET SAVER FOR 12AX7" or "9 pin Machine made tube socket 12AX7" (w/o center pin) from fleabay to wire the pencil tube into so it can be inserted in CTH 9-pin socket.   Attaching my chicken-scratch sheets from when used 6N16B (6.3v heater) in the proto, to help you map its pinout.  Yes leave pin 9...
Sorry I did not mean to offend, sounds good - an O2 build is a good warm-up:)   Good to confirm any questionable sub parts as you are doing.  But concentrate on Description field value in CTH XLS BoM when an exact part # is not available from your source(s).  E.g. in the Digikey BC550CGOS-ND EOL case see they suggest BC547C as direct substitute but would first search for sub using "BC550C" (from Description).
No, use the base part & classes specified (e.g. BC550 - class C).  E.g. in the case you ask about either BC550CTA (ammo/tape) or BC550CBU (bulk/loose).   Curious, how many builds do you have under your belt?   The CTH is an intermediate level build, *lots* of parts in a tiny space, and misplacement / misalignment of any can ruin your day.  IOW IMO would not recommend CTH as a first project.
R4H & R5H are resistors you'd only purchase & use if you wanted to support more than (popular) 12.6v & 6.3v heated tubes.  Most builders use a SPDT toggle 12.6v/6.3v (thus not needing R4H & R5H).  See also: http://cavalliaudio.com/diy/cth/main.php?page=schematics/psschematic
Agreed... That's what I meant in the post I linked to, that TI's TL08xCPs are suitable subs for STMicro TL08xCNs part #s in the BoM. Part #s in BoM XLS are/were for ordering convenience of parts from Description field (e.g. TL081, TL082, etc).
A post I made about TL08X alternatives:  http://www.head-fi.org/t/398839/a-very-compact-hybrid-amp/2205#post_11422879   For the cap(s) bet a search for "Aluminum Electrolytic 10uF 10volt" or similar would turn up some (16 volt is OK too of course).  Nothing special about C1L & C1R but (try to) match the lead spacing & watch the diameter for fitment.
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