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Posts by georgep

 Totally agree, hence my comment "no commercial viability". Just wanting to clarify the perception that parts are unavailable, as there are oodles of them still available, especially if you can buy in Japan.  Yes. Have not heard anything better, including the Carbon. But to clarify, I have not heard the BHSE, any Cavalli, Woo or Eddie Current, so could not compare those. You are in a much better position than me in the comparison department. The Carbon is still an amazing...
Actually, even though pretty much all the transistors in the t2 are obsolete, they are still available and fakes are easily avoided if you use the right sources. Now the prices are fairly high for those transistors, so there may be some sticker shock and no commercial viability. But similarly with tubes, they are still out there, they just cost a pretty penny.
Those numbers seem a bit high. Did you just count people where you saw they raised an issue in the first instance, or did you read through every post to see how their issue unfolded?There were a few folks who complained about imbalance in the first few months where the imbalance ended up going away, did you include or exclude those?Also there were a few I recalled where the issue was the amplifier (like the one Arnaud helped someone with). Were those included or...
Or if you just scroll through this thread, and read Purk's comparison of the BHSE and the Carbon (and T2), that would shed some light as well. He and Mulveling both have detailed impressions here and in the regular Stax thread, I believe. In their case, the Carbon and BHSE are more on the same level, with the T2 still being superior to both. I have never heard the BHSE (either the Headamp version, or the DIY version of the BHSE referenced above by Wink), so cannot comment...
Other than the faceplate, the amplifier is powder coated, which produces an uneven textured finish. So that doesn't seem out of place. The tiny nik on the rear of the heat sink and on the tube ring, don't seem improbable for a hand made product. But I get that expectations may not have been met. The "lots of metal particles" is strange, though - not sure what that could be.
Why not get an adapter instead of reterminating. That way there is no risk to your headphones and you aren't physically modifying them in a way that might turn off certain future purchasers who may want the original should you decide to sell.
But a lower rated DMM will do that too - its about resolution, not max working voltages.
Agreed that the 87V is nice (I have one myself), but that would be crazy overkill for something like this. And although you probably can't get much cheaper than the $40 one identified, I wouldn't think it would need to be able to handle 1000v. The highest voltage you could encounter at the jack is 380v on the bias line (which you shouldn't need to poke around in if you are just setting balance and offset). The + and - left and right should be very low voltage, likely well...
If you have access to another amp, try the 009 on it - just to rule out something on the amp side.
My cat would probably believe it on a bad day.
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