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Posts by btrancho

The attenuation module is simply a pair of resistors mounted in a DIP socket. There is no op amp. They attenuate the input by adding resistance when you choose the low attenuation setting. They are bypassed when you choose the high setting. I would assume that if you set the Ember to the low setting but remove the attenuation module you are breaking the circuit.You attenuate by leaving it in place and choosing the low setting. You can change the resistors to change the...
I'd agree, but my experience with 6SN7s is somewhat limited to 5 or so tubes I've had a chance to try.  The VT-231s were supposedly the best mil-spec tested 6SN7GT tubes of each run.  I was pleased to get mine from an estate sale listing on eBay for $20.  It looked NOS in the original box from May, 1944 My Shuguang Black treasure CV181 is very good, too.  I was lucky and got it for free after a buddy bought an expensive matched pair from Psvane but proceeded to drop one as...
Yes, I have that CV181 and use it in my Ember occasionally.  I like my Sylvania VT-231 better, but my CV181 is as good as some other 6SN7s that I've tried.
You can certainly run the 6SN7 on your V1 Ember without the supercharger but it will only get 500ma instead of the ideal 600ma that the 6SN7 is designed for.  Adding the supercharger module is recommended and only takes a few minutes to de-solder one part and solder the superhcarger in its place - well worth the cost and effort.  Or you could send it in and Jeremy will to the job for you. I strongly recommend using Garage1217's adapter to insure proper wiring - not all...
Here you go: http://www.satopartsusa.com/prod_detail/default.cfm?sku=P2K4M5&title=K-52-KE-1%20Metal%20Knob
I think that the Speedball upgrade does more to improve the Crack than most any change of tubes.  I hear more resolution, clarity, and detail, without becoming at all sibilant. You don't need the Speedball to run the 6SN7. I perceive most tubes as changing the sound in a relatively moderate way, unless, of course, you have a crappy tube to begin with.  For me, the 6SN7 gives a bit more authority across the board to my HD600s.  I was previously running a NOS Mullard CV4003...
You don't need to change anything on the Crack to use the 6SN7.  Just use the same adapter as the Ember.  I run my Crack (with Speedball) with a 6SN7 all the time now.
The Supercharger is only an add on with the older version I Ember. The new Mkii has the supercharger built-in. Adding the supercharger to the original version involves desoldering one part with four leads and soldering the four leads of the Supercharger in its place. If you have decent soldering skills it takes all of five minutes.
In the MKI version of the Ember there are 2 resistors at R26 that determine the low input gain when you switch the jumpers (JP2) from high to low.  In the MKII these fixed resistors have been replaced by DIP socket into which you can plug the "attenuation module".  The module looks like just another DIP socket into which a pair of resistors have been inserted.  This allows you to change the resistor value of the low gain setting to better match the sensitivity of your...
Probably not but check with Jeremy to be sure.  The integrated Supercharger is built right into the circuit board.  The retrofit has to stand over some small capacitors and needs an extra 1/4" or so.  I'd assume that the v 2.0 is the same height as the original Ember w/o the taller standoffs that come with the retrofit. Since the chassis extends out the same top and bottom near the volume pot, it's really just a matter of mounting the knob not too far back on the shaft so...
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