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Posts by MisterX

You don't have to use all 10 LED positions. Put it all together on a breadboard and then pick which terminal (on the LM3914) best suits the desired behavior for each LED.
http://www.amb.org/audio/gamma1.5/
Put a voltage divider between V+ and the signal input. (trimmers are frequently used so the "scale" can be calibrated) IIRC there was a schematic posted somewhere in this thread.     Edit: check page 30. ;)
A LM3914 would be an easy way to add a voltage level indicator. http://www.ti.com/product/lm3914
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/586304/full-ath-m50-deconstruction
A vacant U2.... sounds like a good time for a sanity check. Measure the resistance between the output pad (the pad closest to the front of the PCB) of U2 and ground. What's the reading? (should be in the high K ohm range and will wiggle around as the caps do their thing)
I'd be more worried about the capacitors then the regulators but they're over-spec'd enough that they should be OK. (it's not uncommon for damaged tantalum capacitors to explode when they fail)
To this--------->       And the datasheet for the Tantalum Capacitors installed in the C1 positions (http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/212/F3100_TaDipRad-507115.pdf) Screen cap---------->   I'm wondering if they are still installed backwards. The idle current for a Mini3 should be 24mA.
http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Wire-Gauge_Ampacity
Do you see any room for one?
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