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Posts by khbaur330162

Generally speaking, coil and epsilon layouts are the same thing.AFAIK, rare earth magnets were prohibitively expensive to produce at the time many of these headphones (1980's) were manufactured. This caused ortho's to drag their feet a bit in sensitivity when compared to their dynamic counterparts. I was reading a Beyerdynamic internet page which, I believe, said that this sensitivity discrepancy partly led to ortho's eventual complete phasing out of the market as...
The Mix Master drivers are 50mm and the GH808's are 40mm. It'd be a somewhat odd procedure to perform, imo, but who am I to talk to about that? You could probably get a 50mm hole saw and drill the old drivers straight out (along with the plastic dome pieces) while creating new (and hopefully centered) holes for the MixMaster drivers to be mounted behind. I find epoxy putty works great for mounting drivers. The Kwik Plastik (White and Blue while in stick form, cures White)...
I, too, think that that's definitely a concern. I disassembled the drivers and made sure the rear magnets were on a surface I didn't care much about (the center pins got hot enough to leave some heat damage to the surface I was on). I think conductive epoxy would be a better choice if you were worried about taking the drivers apart. Probably doesn't even need to be conductive so long as the solder tabs are in contact with the center pins when everything sets and we're 100%...
 - Edit -  Worked for a while, then driver started cutting in and out again. So... disregard this post.   Did some quick Google/forum searches on the B&O U70 drivers and how they cut in and out, but couldn't find much on it as far as a solid fix was concerned. In my case I believe it was the solder tabs on the center pins of my drivers had some wiggle room. I heated up the center pins with my soldering iron and fed solder onto the joints until the solder balled up a...
The D310 and D1001 seem to share the same driver/baffle assembly, but this is judging from briefly looking at disassembly pictures via a Google image search, so don't quote me.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement-Cushion-Ear-Pads-For-AH-D1100-AH-NC800-AH-D-1000-NC-800-Headphones-/261485257809?_trksid=p2054897.l4275 These look nice. Seems cheaper to buy the D510 to me, but depends on what you're trying to do. GL
I have no idea how powerful that laser is, tbh. Burning away the Copper with a laser doesn't sound like the right approach to me, though, at least if we're trying to make an ortho diaphragm for headphones. I just figure if the laser is burning through your Copper layer it's also obliterating the few microns of Kapton you've got underneath it. Maybe for speaker use? Making loooong cuts in Aluminum tape that are meant to be adhered separately to the diaphragm substrate,...
Yeah. I wonder if you could miniaturize the plasma arc element enough to be suitable for IEM/canalphone use. Like what types of materials/fabrication processes would be involved, and if it even makes sense to think about. Perhaps a dynamic woofer to vent the enclosure of ozone? And then maybe a line array of like nine tiiiny plasma arc drivers sparkin' away? Not sure if the line array idea does anything for us here, maybe makes it safer since you can control the smaller...
1. Actually, the "grid" you mention could benefit diaphragm stability much like the zig-zag traces on the T50RP. Here's a picture of a somewhat unique diaphragm circuit layout using a grid of smaller square magnets like you imagined. The patent goes into further detail on everything, but I just wanted to post that picture so you could see the flux lines jumping from North to South between all the magnets. You can play with the right hand rule and the direction of current...
The MakerJuice Flex resin looks interesting. I think you could print an entire Grado style headband and whatever cups you want out of the Flex and Stiff resins, but Idk what any of the stuff is like irl, or how well it would hold up over time to everyday usage. But a couple Grado-clone yokes and friction set hinge/head size adjuster boxes, driver housings, baffle adapters that accept whatever pads you want, all out of the Stiff resin, few screws to keep it all together...
Jennifer has some videos up of her using her product. Fast forward to 1:00 to see her unroll, slice up, and laminate some of her film onto a blank.     PurEtch is not a "special" product, really, there are many other photosensitive films that you can use in exactly similar fashions. The cool thing about PurEtch, imo, is how thin the photosensitive layer is. If you check out the link I provided directing you to the 3D printing forums you'll notice the Peachy Printer...
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