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Posts by khbaur330162

1. I agree with Muinarc. That, or maybe Plastidip. (I had to mention it) 2. Perhaps an art supply store has funky kinds of paper in different gsm ratings that you could use? Not really sure. Why do you like the paper so much? Because the fibers are sort of loosely woven? Also -just to throw this out there- my mind immediately went to transparency sheets. I'm guessing they could be formed into cones that would be relatively rigid. Have you seen those youtube videos on DIY...
I remember reading a thread over at diyAudio about changing the fundamental resonance of electrostatic loudspeakers with bias voltage being the only variable. In my mind, by changing the magnet strength you not only alter the efficiency, but diaphragm behavior and, in effect, FR as well. Why? Little idea. How much in the case of two 55mm pinched orthos with a 3dB difference? I'm guessing less than minimally, but I'm also one to bundle the U70 and YH/HP-1 drivers in the...
Maybe later. Thanks for the offer.
No idea how difficult it would be to design a planar magnetic loudspeaker that sounded "good" -and of course that's what we're aiming for here- nor have I ever heard one myself, but since you said all we really have to accomplish with this project is something that more or less makes sound for a day or two, to that end I don't think it should be all that difficult. Seeing as you want the driving force to be planar, yet some type of surround so it acts as a dynamic, the...
Maybe use plastic window sealer (can be tensioned with a hair dryer, even thinner stock of Mylar can be found on eBay for pretty cheap), paper, or even thin foam as the diaphragm? Something light weight and thin enough that it could be glued to your baffles at their perimeter and still allow for flex, no suspension needed. I've read that 3M contact cement is good for gluing voice coils. If using Mylar as your diaphragm I've read that 3M 4693 Scotch-Grip Plastic Adhesive is...
I like the idea of point #4. I agree, it seems complicated. Best I could come up with is you have oversized, overly thick spacers on a diaphragm set at the lowest "desired" tension within the range. The stators would be threaded inside the inner diameter of the oversized spacers (variable stator spacing). Attached to the stators, however, would be "secondary" spacers. These secondary spacers would actually determine your diaphragm's active area and stator spacing. As you...
Swapped my stock caps out for some 4.5uf, 50V electrolytic caps stolen from the back of some piezoelectric car tweeters. I would agree with what others have said, my immediate sonic impressions were that bass was less boomy, more tactile and textured. I like the modification, it gives a good percentage of the performance increase that I expect from an external amp and it cost me next to nothing. I should have taken photos and measurements of the caps that I used as there...
Not looking to make a buck, just get some clutter out of the headphone drawer. The drivers were stolen and used in various projects, but the frames remain and are good donors for old tired ortho's perhaps looking for a few bits and pieces.   Yamaha HP-1 headband (x2) Yamaha HP-1 ear pads (one pair) B&O U70   For those interested in any of this stuff I'm willing to part with everything at cost of shipping, can provide photos and/or further describe articles more...
I'd like to verbally describe everything that's going on in the photos just to give you an idea of what this thing looks like in person. There's a couple very minor nicks at the face-side edge of the unit (one top, one bottom). Hardly noticeable, they're hard to capture in the photos, but I did my best. There is a screen protector both on the front and back of the unit. The scratches on the back that you see in the photo can be erased by replacing the protector if that...
150Ohm SFI drivers leftover from a project of mine. $20 plus shipping.   $OLD
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