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Posts by Corleone

The higher you go, the bigger diminishing return becomes. This is not entirely true until you hit a specific price range which I will not try to define as I'm way too casual an audiophile ;)
- First the 325 were made in different variations including the black anodized aluminium and black wire mesh and the plain aluminium version. Both looked quite cylindrical even if they had a small reinforced ridge at the end, somewhat similar to the current cup design, just not as wide. These look a bit funky IMO. - Then Grado released the Golden/Champagne colored SR325I version that introduced the current design with wider a ridge/reinforcement and black wire mesh. As...
I can confirm that these guys know their stuff. Absolutely correct! :)
 Beautiful headband! Keep the drivers relatively flush with the bottom of the cups. If you choose to have them recessed then don't place them too deep as this usually affects the sound in a bad way. Consider using something to seal that huge slit for the cabling, as it'll be way too long for such slender drivers. The Senn's driver has approx. 1mm wider diameter than the Grado drivers, so it might be too tight if you try to tape the entire circumference of he driver.Try a...
I applied a slight pressure on the pads without deforming them, and I'm really happy about the results. The weight of these headphones will eventually squeeze the pads slightly together, so I wanted to prevent that for as long as possible.
Having tried S, L, inverted L and G-cushes I also agree that the SR-325is totally need the L-cushes, preferably tape-modded with a sturdy tape. I'm also gonna try what 7keys did and see how it affects these Grados. I'm thinking going with a high density leather, turn the smooth side in and call it a day after a few seams. Hopefully it'll be less painful than the tape I'm currently using. Over time, the pad compresses at the upper portion, and the tape starts scraping my...
Yeah that's a detail I actually forgot to mention. I did some calculations, and figured that my (originally planned) replacement wooden sleeve would have to be 35-36mm high to get the same volume as my existing SR-325is (with the plastic rings removed). I quite like it as it is right now, so I spent some extra effort calculating it close to the original specs (with the rings removed). I guess if I have to make it deeper, the plastic sleeves might not sit properly inside...
Hey guys!   I was considering having a local woodturner make me pair of inner sleeves/cups for my SR-325is. Then I started thinking if I should just have him make an inner sleeve that fits inside the inner plastic cup and the outer alu cups. It would sorta be like a filler that provides woodied inner walls all the way down to the driver. It would certainly cause me less work and less risk of damage, but could I achieve better sound by replacing the entire inner sleeve...
Those are stamped metal sheets, which sadly are relatively air-flow restrictive and somewhat "less aerodynamic" than woven wire meshes. I will not guarantee the real benefits of this vs. yours, but as probably most of you know, moving air actually speeds up rather than slow down when it meets round objects (like the wire that make up mesh). The ones I linked to are the same type that higher end grado use, and you can choose how tightly woven it should be. I think a #20...
wje, try out some nice stainless mesh from eBay. I posted about it here: http://www.head-fi.org/t/560806/sr60-mod-part-ii/3285#post_10178871
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