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Posts by Corleone

Those are stamped metal sheets, which sadly are relatively air-flow restrictive and somewhat "less aerodynamic" than woven wire meshes. I will not guarantee the real benefits of this vs. yours, but as probably most of you know, moving air actually speeds up rather than slow down when it meets round objects (like the wire that make up mesh). The ones I linked to are the same type that higher end grado use, and you can choose how tightly woven it should be. I think a #20...
wje, try out some nice stainless mesh from eBay. I posted about it here: http://www.head-fi.org/t/560806/sr60-mod-part-ii/3285#post_10178871
You've got PM :)
PX-200 II drivers:     Got a "defect" headset for free from a friend of mine \^_^/ As you can see they're similar, but not identical. These are definitely going inside my pair of experimental Vibro cups when I find the time! It's really hard to see, but the magnets are covered by a thick transparent circular plastic sheet. Most probably for both isolation and stiffening. It's really smooth and slippery, so I wonder if Dynamat will stick that well. I do find the...
Yeah I was actually contemplating that! I'm a bit scared of warming the membranes too much tho. Might be worth a shot, but I'll give it some more thought first.   Regarding liberating the drivers: it's not really a problem. I've liberated a few sets as many have done before me. All models from SR-325 and below have the same inner cup design with the drivers CA'ed to the inner cup sleeves. :)
x'D This made my day! Sadly I know all this and have even been inside a couple of drivers. I'm talking about finding some adept that is good at removing the black putty (white on new drivers) and re-soldering the voice coil to the tabs without messing anything up. I do wonder if it's really possible, as the putty seems to melt around anything when soldering, effectively coating anything disconnected.   PS. Yes I measured it after de-soldering too.
Ah you can have them as long as you pay for the shipping + pp fee :) Just let me know if you find some of the stuff I have requested in my signature, or someone skilled enough to repair Grado drivers.
The drivers were unresponsive while playing them, which was the first thing I did. I also cleaned the soldering points before de-soldering the cable. The funk you're talking about is flux residue, but I have never seen a soldered point covered completely with flux. This is due to the properties of the materials used for such purposes - it flows outwards when heated. I also ohmed everything, including the same soldering points (before and after) to make sure that I was...
 "There was no response" so 0 ohms against the usual ~32 ohms :) Yeah I didn't bother ohming the cables, but I did now just for the sake of it, and got full connection. No worries, I know my way around with a soldering iron ^_^ I'm guessing people boil off the glue at the back side of the PCB while de-soldering? EDIT: I could liberate the driver if you wanted pictures of the voice coil routing canal. I'm not sure if it would make much of a difference tho, as I suspect the...
I recently found a pair of SR-125s with pink drivers. I just couldn't help myself even if one side was out and the pictures were out of focus and of low quality. I could still see what seemed to be a pristine pair of 13-14 years old Grados, and boy if they were! 15 minutes after getting home from the post office, I had them open, but sadly I got no response when ohming the dead driver D: So, this is where I turn to you, the more experienced Grado lovers. From what I can...
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