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Posts by Corleone

I applied a slight pressure on the pads without deforming them, and I'm really happy about the results. The weight of these headphones will eventually squeeze the pads slightly together, so I wanted to prevent that for as long as possible.
Having tried S, L, inverted L and G-cushes I also agree that the SR-325is totally need the L-cushes, preferably tape-modded with a sturdy tape. I'm also gonna try what 7keys did and see how it affects these Grados. I'm thinking going with a high density leather, turn the smooth side in and call it a day after a few seams. Hopefully it'll be less painful than the tape I'm currently using. Over time, the pad compresses at the upper portion, and the tape starts scraping my...
Yeah that's a detail I actually forgot to mention. I did some calculations, and figured that my (originally planned) replacement wooden sleeve would have to be 35-36mm high to get the same volume as my existing SR-325is (with the plastic rings removed). I quite like it as it is right now, so I spent some extra effort calculating it close to the original specs (with the rings removed). I guess if I have to make it deeper, the plastic sleeves might not sit properly inside...
Hey guys!   I was considering having a local woodturner make me pair of inner sleeves/cups for my SR-325is. Then I started thinking if I should just have him make an inner sleeve that fits inside the inner plastic cup and the outer alu cups. It would sorta be like a filler that provides woodied inner walls all the way down to the driver. It would certainly cause me less work and less risk of damage, but could I achieve better sound by replacing the entire inner sleeve...
Those are stamped metal sheets, which sadly are relatively air-flow restrictive and somewhat "less aerodynamic" than woven wire meshes. I will not guarantee the real benefits of this vs. yours, but as probably most of you know, moving air actually speeds up rather than slow down when it meets round objects (like the wire that make up mesh). The ones I linked to are the same type that higher end grado use, and you can choose how tightly woven it should be. I think a #20...
wje, try out some nice stainless mesh from eBay. I posted about it here: http://www.head-fi.org/t/560806/sr60-mod-part-ii/3285#post_10178871
You've got PM :)
PX-200 II drivers:     Got a "defect" headset for free from a friend of mine \^_^/ As you can see they're similar, but not identical. These are definitely going inside my pair of experimental Vibro cups when I find the time! It's really hard to see, but the magnets are covered by a thick transparent circular plastic sheet. Most probably for both isolation and stiffening. It's really smooth and slippery, so I wonder if Dynamat will stick that well. I do find the...
Yeah I was actually contemplating that! I'm a bit scared of warming the membranes too much tho. Might be worth a shot, but I'll give it some more thought first.   Regarding liberating the drivers: it's not really a problem. I've liberated a few sets as many have done before me. All models from SR-325 and below have the same inner cup design with the drivers CA'ed to the inner cup sleeves. :)
x'D This made my day! Sadly I know all this and have even been inside a couple of drivers. I'm talking about finding some adept that is good at removing the black putty (white on new drivers) and re-soldering the voice coil to the tabs without messing anything up. I do wonder if it's really possible, as the putty seems to melt around anything when soldering, effectively coating anything disconnected.   PS. Yes I measured it after de-soldering too.
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