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Posts by tomb

 Many thanks for the great comments! Just an FYI, because I would not be properly supporting ECP Audio and their designs if I didn't mention: volume knob position is only an indication of gain, not power.
Sorry - just saw this in passing.  The corner frequency has nothing to do with caps in the (Power Supply) PS.  The corner frequency occurs because the impedance of a pair of headphones combines with the amplifier's output capacitors to form an RC circuit.  An RC circuit, depending on configuration, will filter out certain frequencies.  In the case of output capacitors on a DAC or headphone amp, they filter out bass.  The circuit phenomenon is dependent on the values of R...
1/8", give or take a bit. They're intended for 4-40 screws.
The HD800 is not at all harsh, unless it's being driven [attempted to be driven] by a puny amp.  If you think that's an opinion only, then ask Schiit - every amp they build is tested with an HD800.  So, they're going to sell an amp that tests out as harsh highs with the HD800?  I don't think so.   I can't speak for the HD700, but have not heard very many good things about it.  Quality is top-notch, for sure, but many say Sennheiser missed the mark on sound...
You might try SMD organic polymer caps. These look like SMD electrolytic caps, but are filled with a different electrolyte. I've seen reports where some like the sound.SMD chip caps would not be suitable for a signal path. They are almost always ceramic, which sound awful.
 Yep. If you have the polarity correct, then it can only be three things:Bad connection due to soldering Damaged the LED through soldering LED defective There is a seriously easy way to check your solder connections.  Simply place one DMM probe on the lead of the part in question, then place the other DMM probe on the lead of another part directly connected to the part in question by a wire in between.  If it measures zero resistance, then you know the wire and its solder...
 I'm just guessing, but it could be a short in your soldering.  A capacitor might be charging/discharging and arcing through the short.  That would cause a ticking noise like what you report.  Chances are, it's the large electrolytic caps, because the film caps would charge/discharge much faster than that. It might be the opamp oscillating, too, but that's usually a different type of sound.  Again, these are just guesses.
 My math says 11.2 ma at the 8.4V rating of the batteries (16.8V).  I still say you have it backwards.  LEDs are not "ON-OFF."  You will get a gradual, dimming glow all the way down to 0ma, almost.  The brightness is not proportional, either, which is why many of us select something in the range of 1/2 current rating to make them last forever. One-half current is still 75% brightness, or something like that. If it's connected correctly, it's going to glow at some...
I can't tell from the pics where the LED is located.  However, a typical mistake (we've all done it) is soldering the LED in backwards.  You might try reversing it, first, and see if that makes it light up.
Yep - that's the way to do it!
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