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Posts by Frodo

Not much of a mod really, but it may interest some of you. I had a problem with a broken driver (the right one, perhaps a common fault?) in my ATH-M50s. I couldn't find any original drivers for sale so I replaced them with the drivers from a pair of Koss KSC75s (also 45mm and a near perfect fit). I removed the grille covers from the KSC75s and replaced them with some wire mesh (my attempt at the Kramer mod). They sound good in my opinion (detailed and balanced) and KSC75s...
I had  the same problem with a right broken driver, annoyed the hell out of me. I couldn't find any original drivers for sale so I replaced them with the drivers from a pair of Koss KSC75s (they were a perfect fit). The sound is pretty good, although I'm not sure how well it compares to the original. I removed the grille covers from the KSC75s and replaced them with some wire mesh (my attempt at the Kramer mod). 
I put my amp together today, everything was looking great , I'd even found a working power supply in a junk bin for $2 and some nice 1960's tubes ..... final job mounting the Mosfets to the heatsinks .... Doh! I realised that I don't have any of the ceramic mounting kits. Does anyone know where I can buy them or have any to sell? or maybe there is a work around? I can't find any on ebay and Mouser are really expensive for shipping to Japan.   Thanks, Andy
Hi, The boards arrived today. They look fantastic,   Many thanks!
Just wanted to say thanks for this post, I needed to replace a damaged cable in my M50's and it was very useful to see them stripped down before I started work.   Actually, it's been such a long time since I last used mine I had forgotten how good they sound, great pair of budget headphones. Thanks for saving them from the bin!!
Hey Grumus, I'm not as qualified as the others to answer your questions but I'll give it a try.   1. I think the only advantage using a stripboard has over point to point is that it's easier to build it that way for those of us who are not used to following circuit diagrams or who are not confident in point to point soldering. You might find that you actually end up using more wire with the stripboard design than point to point (I'm sure I did). 2. I use my amp...
I'm very happy with my O2 amp. I think you can get them pre build for about $150
  Thanks for the info, as you recommended I'm now using the Wilma's as bypasses and I'm pleased to report that it does seem to be a nice improvement , highs are much brighter and clearer (it also makes me happy that the Wilmas' are being put to good use). I have to make a trip into Tokyo after Christmas so will look out some of the caps you've mentioned. The shipping from Mouser is very expensive here.   Really sorry to hear about your Alien, I hope it was repairable....
I just wondered if anyone is using bypass caps, and is there any particular value in it?   It's going to be a while before I get new output caps and wondered if using the Wima caps that came with the Skeleton DAC kit  in parallel with the Nicon 220uf caps I am using at the moment would be a worthwhile mod. I've read that bypass caps can improve high frequency response.  
I think it's very good, but I'm no expert. Like Tomb said in an earlier post, make sure the power supply and tube you want is available / and within your budget. I paid about $20 for the tube, but only $3 for the power supply,  so the total cost was about $50. I bought my tube from a seller on Amazon, but I'm sure there are much cheaper places.   If you have the time you might also think about the Starving Student Millet Hybrid, I've just built one based on a very...
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