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Posts by Salvatore

Well I tried to offer the post for someone to take it over. I knew this way someone would definitely do so. There's been so much negativity going on here lately that I'll be stepping back from the forums. It's not only the thread but I get accusations via PM too. Take care of the thread and try to behave. You can freely use whatever I've written here if it's helpful to someone. Peace.
 Yes this is very true. We should try keeping this thread fun and educational.  This is another good observation. We should work together to create good guides for all of us to enjoy. Maybe first create DIY guide for changing caps and then add peoples impressions of different caps. It's the same with tubes. One man's best tube might not work with others. But it is very important to let everyone express their opinion without letting them feel stupid saying stuff. This one...
 Yes those who have been reading my posts know that I've been quoting Brent Jessee several times before. It also says Brent Jessee in the text so I'm not claiming it to be my own text. Not all tubes have visible factory codes I know, but for what I know also at least some of american Amperexes should have codes. What I'm trying to say is that there are lots of beginners out here and it's important that they know how to interpret codes and look for them. If tubes are not...
With all the fakes and relabels I'd be very interested of those codes. I wouldn't buy any of those expensive tubes without proper etching.
Amperex, Mullard, Philips, and Valvo Tube Codes   Most Amperex, Mullard, Philips and Valvo tubes are marked with a group of symbols which contain coded information relating to the type, place of manufacture or country of origin, and the date of manufacture. Apart from the interest of knowing when and where a tube was made, the code group can still provide useful type identification when the commercial markings have become illegible.   There were two types of code...
 Not cool.
 Wow, thanks to you kind sir, I'm now hooked to Ludovico.
Guys you might want to start posting those etched factory codes for better identification.
 I agree. We can surely tell if seller is legit or not but lets leave it there.  Have you checked my useful info post? You can find the link either from 1) at the end of the first post of this thread or 2) in my signature. There are all the major tube reviews + lots of other useful info.
 Why don't you just post the factory codes?
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