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Posts by Goobley

Well the torpedo runs its LEDs at about 0.5mA (low efficiency types like yours). If you're happy with voltage you get In practice using these LEDs at low current thn that's fine, just don't necessarily expect it to match what your theory suggests... When it comes down to it it's reality that counts
I'd try to avoid running LEDs under 3mA as their Vf can be a bit variable in low current situations. But I have seen some amps running them at ~1 mA but they require more matching iirc. I just saw this thread as I've been away from the forum for a few days. I too would urge you to try the amp without a CCS, I've rebuilt my amp with a higher voltage input stage (about the same as yours) and a chunkier output stage that can also push about 5W RMS into 8R. Due to me wanting...
That's a linear pot, you can tell by the B marking, theoretically you could use it but your volume control would not seem very natural 
If you're powering your CMOY from an a DAP through it's standard headphones port, ,it'll be fine, however if you're coming straight from a DAC it may be a bit dodgy depending on the output power of the DAC and if it has any buffering.   I doubt it'd be an issue and personally I would just try it and see
It's done.   I just connected from the power jack to the case by connecting a jumper to the side of the connecter and clamping it between the case and rear panel. The amp is silent all the way to the noise floor of my usb powered DAC :) I did a quick RMAA and all it really shows is that my kit isn't good enough to quantify the performance of this amp, it just measure's the same as my DAC: ( https://www.dropbox.com/s/ysyx6qhhzcl646i/LME49600.pdf ). I'm running at 4x...
I've almost finished the casing on this amp using a slightly taller box so I don't have to worry about the height of the to220 packages. However I have some hum since putting the amp into a metal enclosure, the noise level increases a fair amount if I touch the pot, but I can't really see a way to ground the pot. Any ideas? If I short the barrel of the ac adapter to the case then the noise disappears. Should I keep it isolated and then connect a wire from the input jack...
Sorry, not meaning to hijack this thread, but I'd be interested in an output cap-free crack mod. A cursory 5 minute google search didn't reveal any such page. Any chance you could post a link Duncan?   on topic: +1 for the Beezar amps, If you were happy with a hybrid amp, then I bet you could get a Millett Mosfet Max or MiniMax or minimax into that enclosure. Tack something like the woven raffia material that they use on guitar cabs over the hole on the front to end...
I think it could become useful resource. IMHO for beginners it may be a good idea to include hybrids as they are more approachable, but for your thread the decision is of course yours. I've just finished what I believe to be quite an interesting hybrid that I'd be happy to document in said thread. It should be fairly easy to build, the hard work was the design.
I'd be happy to provide the knowledge and advice that I can to such a thread. It's always nice to have more solder slingers building projects. I've really enjoyed following your thread over the past few weeks.
It is a slight mod, the bias point for the MOSFET and valve heater has to be moved slightly. Here's the page for the mod with the schematic: http://diyforums.org/SSMH/SSMHvariants.php This amp sounds good on its own, but if you want a slightly blacker background (also increases the gain slightly) then you could think about adding a constant current source to the tube, this does however add some complexity to the tube stage.
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