I agree but things were different five years ago, back when this post was made...and today you don't even have to spend a fortune to get great performance a 60$ xu208 converter is better then a 1000$ off ramp from 2012
Mobo optical is usually aweful, even on enthusiast boards. Try a wyrd or singxer f1A good way to troubleshoot this is to lift the ground on jot with a 2$ "cheater plug" from walmart. If it's a ground loop that will stop it.
Yeah, I don't intend to pair whatever i use with a LPS and Regen, so the question is a newer XU208 based design with no additional power supply, or a similarly priced, but maxed out XU8 solution like Breeze DU-U8.
I don't think we are talking about the same X1. This is what I was refering too
it does not have...
Excellent Condition Hifiman EF5 and matching DY1 power supply. 200$ shipped. CONUS.
I also have some additional tubes and OP-AMPS i'd be willing to part with
Amperex, Mullard, Brimar, JJ, and various OP-amps. 50$ for this kit. The tubes alone are worth more then that. PM Me if you want more details on exactly what the op amps are.
I'd also be willing to accept these items in trade:
Singer F1, or other XU208 DDC
Breeze DU-08 DDC
The amp was...
So i know the XU208 is the new hotness. The F1 and X1 boards.
Cant someone explain the difference between the F1 and X1? there's a large price gap
furthermore, If I don't intend to use a LPS, or other power supply with the F1/X1 would it be more wise to get a Xmos U8 implementation with a power supply built in like the Breeze DU-U8 Talema.. the cost is between the X1 and F1. I want an affordable, simple solution, not looking to string on aftermarket power supplies,...
The 38$ pads came in yesterday, pretty pleased with them. They are alot firmer then my old pads, and seal better. I was actually pretty surprised by the sonic differences. As they are a stock mimic. But my old stock pads had been stuffed, and were overly soft, I guess the foam inside lost it's firmness, and they did not really seal right or "sit" right on the head. I thought the new ones would sound the same, just not be falling apart. Was pleasantly surprised.
Yeah, I think I sounded overly critical above. The day after I wrote that I changed the pads on my Denon D2k, and their tonality changed pretty significantly, little more bass, little more mids, and alot less high end, the pairing is much better now. Still not quite as nice as the Teradak, but closer. Thing is, the D2k is pretty V shaped, and the Jotunheim is said to be a little V shaped, and i'd say the DAC is also a little V shaped, there's just too much V... the...
I pulled my old Teradak Chameleon out the closet last week and tried it with the Jotunheim, i've done some pretty detailed listening impressions vs the built in AKM DAC.. honestly, I dident want to believe it, but the Chameleon is way better. And old TDA1543 x 16 design, mine's modified quite abit. Was really hoping for a one box solution, I don't know if im just not liking the 4490 sound signature, or if the Chameleon is just flat out better. It makes me wonder how this...
In that case you'll need 4 feet of 1.29 a foot Mogami 2534, 2 feet of heatshrink tubing, and if you want to get fancy, 4 feet of cloth wire loom. So add another ~10$ or so, and a forum post or two with a detailed guide and pictures of someone else who's already done it.