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Posts by Skylab

Right, that's part of my objection to the whole argument - it's FAR from a given that the high output impedance of the headphone out of vintage amps is a bad thing, it's also FAR from a given that vintage amps will be noisy...especially for those of us who have recapped/restored ours. Coming into an enthusiast thread and spouting a bunch of tired dogma as a reason why the enthusiasts are wrong...well I don't get why that seemed like a good idea. The proof, indeed, is in...
I had always hoped headphone amp manufacturers would never find this thread. Looks like the party is over, boys, we should all just pack up our 900+ pages of fun and go home.
The 5998 was a computer tube. It's possible that those tubes were very late production and are 5998 specs even though they are 6AS7G style plates.
I have a bunch of Sylvania WGTs as well as the WGTAs, I like the WGTs too. But the WGTAs are quieter, and in a preamp, quiet is really important
Relative to the Tung-Sol 6F8G versus the 6SN7, when comparing the same style tubes in all other respects (same plates, mica, etc), I had a marginal preference for the 6F8G, actually. I thought the soundstage was more spacious. But given that we are talking about very old tubes, sample-to-sample variation will likely matter more than any real difference between the identical 6SN7 and 6F8G versions. It always surprises me how little love the Sylvania 6SN7WGTA seems to get....
That was this:And yeah, it wasn't possible from the place it was in to know how it sounded, but that's good stuff!!!! I was shocked, but psyched, to see that there.
I never tried the Psvane, but I tried the Shuggie CV181 and the Sophia, and IMHO, even a "lowly" Sylvania 6SN7GTB sounded better than either one.
You can use an OM20 stylus in that cartridge body I believe, which would be a nice upgrade. IIRC, that's been a popular upgrade.
Nice!!! The only Ohm speakers I've ever seen were the Walsh models - which were impressive.
The two things are not related, at least not directly.The "chrome" is the getter flashing. If the tube has no getter at the bottom (meaning the getter is on the top usually), then there will be no flashing at the bottom, and the glass will be clear. This has nothing to do at all with what kind of plates are used.
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